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Old Feb 27, 2015, 03:31 PM
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Crunchy Frog's Avatar
Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Oct 2012
109 Posts
AB, what about the roofing flashing that you mentioned? Can I just use cedar shingles instead? That keeps my house dry, will it keep my boat dry too? I was thinking of covering the bulb with cedar shingles, then dipping in the 5 layers of plasti-dip as you recommended.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 03:53 PM
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hiljoball's Avatar
Canada, BC, Strathcona
Joined Jul 2011
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I try to bring my unpainted fin/ballast to around 2470gms, then hold the ballast vertical and drizzle the epoxy (thinned 10%) over the bulb to coat it. That should add about 15 gms. Once it has dried, wet sand it to remove any runs. Now you still have 15 gms for painting.

John
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 04:18 PM
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Calgary Alberta, Canada
Joined Feb 2008
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Crunchy, cedar on the bulb will defeat the effect of adding additional weight where it belongs. Cedar would just be positive flotation. Plasti dip is the same consistency as peanut butter and smooths out really well if you use a butter knife. You may need to try this with a second daggerboard fin, then maybe interchange between races to see which one you prefer.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 04:44 PM
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Canada, BC, Victoria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.B. View Post
...then maybe interchange between races to see which one you prefer.
You mean at a serious regatta, so I can compare against some good sailors with consistent boats? Okay good idea.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 04:56 PM
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Calgary Alberta, Canada
Joined Feb 2008
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Sure experiment with different weights, finishes, lengths. Especially if the wind strength changes. Another idea is to put crushed walnut shells in with the plasti dip, will make the finish like shark skin, and we all know sharks are fast.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 05:33 PM
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Canada, BC, Victoria
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But wouldn't crushed peanuts act more like peanut butter? But will extra Vitamin E?
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 05:38 PM
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Calgary Alberta, Canada
Joined Feb 2008
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You bring up a very good point crunchy. The uv Rays from the sun could cause whatever finish you put on to break down from vitamin E exposure. So a good uv resistant coating would be imperative.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 06:05 PM
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United States, MO, St. Louis
Joined Jan 2014
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Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
Have any of you guys used one of these spray cans,the glass jar which is screw'd to the aresol can gives the ability to use any paint even two part automotive.Shure looks like a good idea but never used it.
http://www.worldpaintsupply.com/prev...int-spray-gun/
I have one of them, they work quite well. Not as handy as an rattle can but they have the ability to use better paint than is available in rattle cans.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 06:18 PM
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Australia, New South Wales, Wollongong
Joined Feb 2011
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Originally Posted by slotracer577 View Post
If you are having overheating problems I would guess you have excess friction in the sheet run. I burned up one RMG when it lost an end point setting and tried to pull the rig apart repeatedly. After trying 3 or 4 times the drive circuit went up in smoke. It would shut down when overloaded, but I didnt realize what was happening and reset it each time. It pulled so many amps that the battery connector melted. didnt hurt the battery and the winch was repaired with a new brain board. so my point is the drive circuit can be overloaded and build lots of heat. It does have a protection circuit built in, but you can over ride it enough to cause damage.
Than s again , I will check to see if I have any sheeting problems and the servo.
Regards
Col
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 06:46 PM
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Barbados
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Originally Posted by The Enigma View Post
I have one of them, they work quite well. Not as handy as an rattle can but they have the ability to use better paint than is available in rattle cans.
I gave the air a squeeze and got the feeling the pressure is low compared to a rattle can,could be just me, one would think the people who build it would know the correct pressure.If it works it would be ideal for spraying bulbs and small touchups,the automotive shops here are really good at matching 2 part paint.
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 12:21 PM
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Canada, BC, Victoria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
I try to bring my unpainted fin/ballast to around 2470gms, then hold the ballast vertical and drizzle the epoxy (thinned 10%) over the bulb to coat it. That should add about 15 gms. Once it has dried, wet sand it to remove any runs. Now you still have 15 gms for painting.

John
All kidding about walnut shells and plastidip aside, thanks for this, John. I never properly finished my bulb, so that's a project for next week. These target weights are a good starting point.
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 11:43 PM
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Calgary Alberta, Canada
Joined Feb 2008
313 Posts
Crunchy,

Just make sure you brush the epoxy side to side not the length of the bulb. You need to create that shark skin finish, and we all know sharks swim fast. Good luck.
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