|Oct 19, 2012, 09:09 PM|
Radian Pro newb
I've been reading the main RP threads for weeks and my brain is overloaded with info. I'm hoping you folks can prioritize some of it for me.
I'm new to RC and have been messing with helis and fixed wing since this spring trying to decide what I like best. I bought an RP from the classifieds here and flew about 8 packs through it and I had a blast. I decided to try a roll and lost it and nose-dived it into the ground. I have a new fuse and need to rebuild.
If you were me, with no "building" skills yet, would you just put it back to OEM or are some of the mods beneficial enough that even a newb should do them ? I fly from farm fields. No slopes.
I plan to do the Velcro wing attachments. Other than that, I'm not sure what else would matter much to this newb.
I have a DX6i and AR600 so I don't think I can set up the crow/camber/reflex stuff and I don't think I'm qualified to use anything more than landing flaps anyway. Maybe that means I should step away from the RP and get a Radian ? The Pro just has so much more "cool" factor.
|Nov 02, 2012, 12:36 AM|
I hate it when nobody replies to my posts.
I'm not much help to you though. I am looking at buying a Radian Pro. My best advice for you would be to buy Realflight and use it a LOT on your computer before flying. I have really, really loved that program and it has made me a MUCH better pilot. I can't answer your other questions, sorry to say.
Edit: One of the great things about Realflight is that it is very easily loaned out. I.e. if ANYONE in your flying club has it, they can loan it to you for a month or so and you can learn a lot of things by crashing on the flight program. There are no copyright restrictions because the controller is the "key" to the thing.
|Nov 02, 2012, 03:07 AM|
United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
The Pro is not very aerobatic. If you replace the spar with a carbon one, it will have enough authority to loop fairly aggressively with the proper speed, but rolling is not something it likes to do. It's made to turn flat.
If you are repairing the front end, I would replace the spinner. The stock one is just too mickey mouse for longevity. It's easy to strip the head of one of the two phillips head nosecone retention screws--and you undo both to get the nose cone off to check the tightness of the steel screw that holds the backplate/yoke to the end of the prop shaft adapter. The adapter is made from aluminum, the internal threads of which are easily stripped out by an aggressive tightening of the steel screw. Either by yourself or the factory guys, or girls.
If you remove that screw and the backplate itself from the adapter, you find that the plastic backplate is keyed to the hex shaped shaft adapter by a corresponding hex shaped molding on the backplate side facing the motor. This needs to be checked for a tight fit or else the backplate can rock back and forth on the adapter. Some guys have found that any looseness here can be tightened up by wrapping a few turns of Teflon tape around the aluminum prop adapter. The motor brake (sudden stops) can quickly make a small looseness, at this spot, into a big looseness in flight, which can lead to backplate cracking and eventual (unhappy/dangerous) failure.
Traveling inwards towards the cowl, the prop shaft adapter itself is held on the (round, no flat spot) shaft with a single set screw that might, or might not, have been lock-tited at the factory, and the set screw may not have been tightened down on the shaft hard enough anyway. I think that set screw needs to be checked before a Maiden flight and after things like accidental lawn-dart-ish landings. If the setscrew has been lock-tited, it may be submerged under an excess of, in my case, red lock-tight. I had to scrape that away to get the driver into the set screw all the way so I can break the red lock-tite loose without stripping that set screw out or having to resort to heating it with a soldering iron. On my first airframe, I cleaned the hole and reinstalled the setscrew with the right amount of blue lock-tite. Blue was my choice here...some guys always use red on shaft setscrews.
Trying to pull the whole stock spinner and prop assembly straight off the shaft is a must-do preflight line item, in my opinion.
The roots of the blades can become stressed and one might decide to exit the assembly, which creates a fatal imbalance that can take a lot of the nose with it. The blades are pinned to the backplate yoke and the pins can be drifted out, but there is no easy way to tighten a loose blade in the yoke, if the blade root or the yoke is damaged.
I think the whole spinner/ prop assembly makes it hard to inspect once, let alone regularly, without damaging or degrading something.
The "Turbo" aluminum spinners have a hole in the front to let cooling airflow get to the motor. Mine has the prop adapter mount screw (collet type, not set screw) accessible from the hole in the front, so I can check the tightness with a hex driver on a regular basis, without taking the whole shootin' match apart. The yoke that holds the blades is outside the spinner proper, and the screws that tighten down the yoke on the blades are exposed. I experimented with the tightness of these screws to find the best combo of easy-to-fold versus too tight, then marked across the screw heads and yoke with a permanent ink pen, so that I would have a visible indicator of a blade screw that was starting to back out. I check both screws before each launch.
The only downside of an aluminum spinner is the increase in weight at the already heavy front end. Some can live with this compromise, others cannot.
Wow,... Rage Against the Stock Spinner. I should form a band.
I love my Pro, it has brought many smiles to this heli guy. I've crashed 2 and I'm on my 3rd airframe now. Got the pieces of number 2 back and it will fly again someday, but not quite yet.
Here is a site that has collected a lot of info from the RP threads:
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