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Old Jan 06, 2014, 11:51 PM
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Bruce Tharpe Delta Vortex conversion

I have a Cermark Bruce Tharpe Delta Vortex arf. I have been flying it with a OS.91 FX for about 8 years. I decided to convert it to electric power. After removing the glow power, I mounted a Rimfire 1.2 450kv motor .I already had a Castle 80hv esc, so I'm using that. Batteries are 8s, 5000mah. Prop is a APC 13-8 non electric prop. The Rimfire turns the prop at 11,1000 rpm while drawing 32 amps.
I put 2 flights on it Sunday and it flies just like it did with the OS. Plenty of power.

All in all, a nice conversion.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 03:35 PM
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Just finished converting mine to electric. It is a sweet flying plane. Here are some before and after pics. I am switching out the motor because my power system is weak. Current power is a 6s 5000mah, Turnigy 50-65 400kv APC 15X7e prop. I am pulling 30 amps.

I am going to swap the power for a more powerful setup. My next motor combination will be a Turnigy 50-55 SK3 600KV, APC 14X7e prop. pulling about 70 amps on 6s 5000mah and about 1400 watts of power.

I modified the nose with a retractable nose wheel. I will modify the mains for retracts later on.

It is a sweet flying bird.

Here are the pics.

Tom
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Old Dec 14, 2014, 09:35 AM
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I am getting ready to build one of these as an electric as well. Was wondering where you put the battery after you installed the front retract since the wheel would retract into the area where it looks like you have the lipo located?
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Old Dec 14, 2014, 02:27 PM
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I wish I would have taken more pictures of my build mods. The nose wheel retract is below the battery. My battery is a 6s 5000mah. Unfortunately the wheel is not completely flush with bottom of the wing, but I am satisfied. I never posted more pictures when I mounted the retracts for the main gear. I also added gear doors. I also redid all the servo mounts. Everything is mounted flush.

Tom
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Old Dec 14, 2014, 09:51 PM
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WOW.. thanks for the pics I am starting my build tomorrow after I get my building table squared away. It has a slight bow in the middle and I think I am going to have to use a different base or build one

Am going with electric retracts but have the Bruce Thorpe Kit so I will have the advantage of building everything in as I go

Am going with Hyperion wing servos and will move the fins out to the wing tips and make them removable for transporting

Will document all the mods on here
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticflyer View Post
I am getting ready to build one of these as an electric as well. Was wondering where you put the battery after you installed the front retract since the wheel would retract into the area where it looks like you have the lipo located?
Here is how I located my batteries. I don't have a retract in the nose, you could still do it this way. The batteries are located just outboard from the center fuse structure. the pics show it all. Removable hatches cover the batteries. The arming switch would need to be moved. I used scoops from parkflyerplastics.com to vent the battery and esc compartments. Works great.
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 10:54 PM
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Warbird 51 - that is a great idea! My problem is I am going with retracts and that is right where they are going so I have to stick to the middle of the airframe.

Got the build board squared away today and actually got to work. The problem is thinking far enough ahead to do all the mods. I doubled the center ribs with lite ply and will use two basswood rails for mounting the retracts.

My only concern is getting that CG when it is all said and done. I want to put the Lipo (5000mah 6S) in the center just to the rear of the motor box. I want the front retract in the motor box. But I don't know if that will work.

Trying to make it all come together sure is fun

I looked at your pics again and noticed that those lipos are actually forward of where my main retracts are going
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 11:31 PM
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You will love how well the Vortex flies. It's so much fun to shoot touch and go's. I've measured mine and I think the retracts will fit, using my battery location. I keep thinking about fitting retracts to mine.
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Old Dec 16, 2014, 04:55 AM
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Arctic Flyer,

Looking Good!! My setup is is a Turnigy 50-55 600KV motor, an APC 14X7 prop with a 6s 5000mah battery. I extended the nose on my Vortex to get everything to fit. I also moved the mains back and out sideways from the original location. I also extended the nosewheel to raise the nose to give it a positive pitch. It need it for rotation. I did not like where the stock main gear were located because it wobbled bad on the takeoffs and landings.

I am not home, so I cannot get you any measurements. But I will be hopefully tomorrow night. I will be happy to get you them and a lot more pics. It really is a beautiful flying airplane.

Tom
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Old Dec 16, 2014, 07:04 PM
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Progress!

Got a lot done today! The ribs are attached to the trailing edge and the top spars are on

What took so long was the cutting out of the lite ply rib doubles for the retracts. I fear that I have over built in this area and have added some unnecessary weight but no looking back now. That has always been my building bane...strong but heavy

The basswood rail that is visible attached to the underside of the ribs is the back rail for the retract mount plate...this rail also acts as a second rearward spar that will strengthen the wing considerably...not that it needed it...but if I decide to push the power envelope to ridiculous levels...no worries

The end ribs are lite ply as that is where the fins will be attached and will be removable.
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Old Dec 17, 2014, 03:27 PM
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Leading Edge

Got some work done on the leading edge today. Putting the first leading edge cap strip on is not as easy as it looks at the start

All ribs must be beveled then checked and rechecked as you start at rib #1 and work out to the tips. I used a mini plane to get the top edge of the strip beveled and flush with the front of the ribs then a long aluminum sanding block to finish it off

Did a lot of building in years past but it has been quite awhile...the leading edge sheeting is giving me some concern... type of glue to use, method of holding the sheeting flat while the glue is setting up

When in doubt follow the directions and Bruce's instructions are great
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Old Dec 17, 2014, 03:54 PM
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I wish I could tell you how to do it. But I bought my wing built. I converted it to electric and installed the retracts. Looking good though!

Tom
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Old Dec 17, 2014, 05:18 PM
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Am going to follow Bruce's method with CA at the spar and extreme leading edge then yellow glue on the tops of the ribs with either magazines or little sand bags to put some pressure on them...makes sense...HATE SHEETING!
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Old Dec 21, 2014, 01:27 PM
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Sheeting

Leading edge sheeting is on but not without some panic and stress. I followed Bruce's directions which were spot on BUT I made a major mistake and wet the top of the first sheet so it would bend over the ribs easier

Well the glue dried quicker than the wood which caused a nasty warp on that wing

To make a long story short I built my way out of it and in the end wet the opposite side and dried it with a heat gun and it pulled the warp out Don't make my mistake

Did the other side of the wing with the sheeting dry and had no problems with bending or cracking and it came out nice and straight
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Old Dec 22, 2014, 06:17 PM
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More progress today...trailing edge sheeting is on and the retract rails are in. This way of putting in the rails came from a build log on RCU by Salmonbug across the pond in Europe. Believe in giving credit where credit is due

There will be some slight mods of my own to his install as I will be using electric retracts instead of air.
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