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Old Dec 05, 2011, 05:35 AM
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Peter Rake Macchi M.16

I've finally gotten started on one of the "Unprototyped prototypes" that Pete designed a while back. I have an affinity for odd designs and things that are seldom modeled and this one surely fits the bill! It has a very deep fuselage profile which reminds me in many ways of the Aeronca C-3 and the non-scale Lazy Bee design by Andy Clancy. The full scale was flown on wheels and floats and I'd like to do the same with the model. I have pieced together the plans and have started slicing balsa strips for construction. I will make a trip to the LHS this afternoon for the 1/8" Lite Ply needed for construction and will post some shots once the various bits start getting stuck together. Cheers!
-Scott
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 05:33 PM
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We have progress! The fuselage sides have been completed and the firewall, battery tray, and mid fuselage former have been tacked in place. So far, construction has been very straight forward and the fitment of parts has been spot on (as I'd expect from one of Pete's designs).

Pete- I slightly changed the outline of F4 as can be seen in the photos to conserve plywood. Instead of leaving the "overhang" which exists above the 1/8" square notch near the top fuselage stringer, I elected to continue the side line straight up and will add small balsa triangles to replace the are that I omitted. Not a huge divergence, but thought I'd mention it anyway.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 07:31 PM
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I take it that was to make it a little easier to cut out? Only too easy to slip there, and chop off one of those bits.
I'm assuming that ultimately you'll end up with the same shape anyway. I also notice that the part is a different colour on my CAD plan, which probably means I've updated it to reflect a comment made in one of the earlier builds. It looks the same on the pdf too, so presumably I updated that at the same time. IIRC, I forgot the notch for the longeron doubler.

Pete
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 07:33 PM
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Great subject! I don't see ailerons in the photos, and my 3 view doesn't show them either. I'm thinking maybe it used wing warping. There don't seem to be any cross wires between the interplane struts at each end, which also suggests wing warping. Do you know about this?

The spinner always kept me from trying this one.

Jim
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 07:46 PM
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Talking of those doublers, I don't see any on your model. All the formers are (now) intended to fit sides that already have the doublers fitted. Not carrying the longeron doublers as far forward as the longerons themselves induces a weak point where the doubler ends.

Pete
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 07:50 PM
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Jim,
My reasoning was exactly the same as yours. No ailerons shown, and the lack of diagonal bracing suggesting warping.

Pete
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 08:20 PM
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Pete-
With regard to F4- exactly right. I modified the shape simply to make it easier to cut out and conserve plywood. Laser cutting would avoid the issue of slipping and cutting those tabs off. I do intend to notch the lower portion of F4 to accept the longeron doublers so as not to create a weak point.
In working out the build in my head, I figured that I would add the doublers now and then build the rear of the fuselage upside down on the building board. I will post pics as I go and invite continued commentary/brainstorming.
-Scott
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 07:07 AM
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Scott,
Sounds fine mate. That's why I prefer to discuss these points in the thread, it helps focus the mind and gets suggestions from other modellers. Although I spend many hours puzzling through these details while drawing the plan, sometimes I get so involved in it that I overlook what is obvious to someone else.

Pete
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 03:49 PM
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There's a remarkable resemblance between the M.16 and the Martin KIII Kitten.

Jim R.
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Old Dec 11, 2011, 11:09 PM
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More progress. The longeron doublers are being added prior to the joining of the rear fuselage.
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Old Dec 11, 2011, 11:14 PM
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The fuselage rear was built over the plans on the edge of the building board with the building board raised. This was due to prior installation of the former F4 which protrudes above the upper fuselage. Alternately, the rear fuselage could have been built prior to the installation of the firewall, battery tray and F4, but I digress...
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Old Dec 11, 2011, 11:21 PM
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This shot clearly shows the 1/8" square longeron doublers. Next, I plan to add the 1/4" x 1/16" upright and cross piece doublers.

Pete, can you please clarify that these doublers are in fact intended to be 1/16 x 1/4 as drawn on the plans- the description labels them as 1/16 x 1/8. Thanks. More soon...
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Old Dec 12, 2011, 01:40 AM
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Scott,
Yes mate, 1/16x3/16. I see I've changed it on the plan, I'll have to update the pdf. I'll also add a note about them only being on the bottom, not the top too because the formers should be doing the crossbracing job there. You'll need to trim yours to fit onto your cross braces. The rear fuselage could have been joined with the fuselage upright since the lower longerons are straight.
I'm just hoping it isn't too late, but the note on F1 about the off-set hole refers to as viewed. On the model it is off-set to the left so the right thrust will put the shaft. central. Parts M centre on that hole.

Pete
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Old Dec 12, 2011, 06:41 AM
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Thanks Pete for clarifying on the upright doublers. I totally overlooked the obvious when joining the rear fuselage! I assumed, like most fuselages, that the lower longeron was curved so joining it upside down would make the most sense. Kind of a bonehead move on my part. I suppose that's why these prototypes are collaborative efforts!

As far as the firewall is concerned, I have not yet drilled the hole for the motor shaft but did notice the offset and I get the point that the offset is to the right when viewed from the front so the motor will end up with proper right thrust once installed. Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully more building this evening.
-Scott
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 11:54 AM
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Well, no building for the past couple of days but I did order my covering material. I liked the look of the original Macchi build by Redbaron25 and he used litespan, so I decided to give CoverLite a try. I then spent the last 20 minutes reading about how CoverLite is devil's own! It sounds like the Elmer's glue stick method minimizes the pain so I'll give that a go. I have done lots of stick and tissue in the past so hopefully it's no worse than that.
I have to head to the LHS this weekend to pick up some more lite ply. The first shop I went to (the closest to home) only had 4 sheets of 12"x6" 3mm Lite Ply so I bought them all out. Turns out, the width of these sheets is really more like 5.75" and the wheel discs are a full 6" so I need to track down a larger sheet.
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