This thread is dedicated to the Pacific Northwest Model Yacht Club http://home.comcast.net/~pnmyc/index.html discussion of the T37

We already have a dedicated Tippecanoe thread, can't you join in there?

we were thinking of something more specific to T37 and local and didn't want to intrude on either the Tippecanoe or the T37 threads

Attached are a couple of pics showing how I hung the keel. Tape a string with a weight (plumb line) on the center line just forward of the keel, level the boat, and then sight from the bow. Align the keel to the plumb line and you will end up with a pretty good job.
As I think about this after the fact I wonder if the level should have been on the deck or on the bottom. I assumed that the deck was parallel to the bottom, but maybe that was a rash assumption. It probably makes more sense to use the bottom, just in case they are not the same.

There were several threads about building a T37 and I started a thread about my building a T50. Fokker Ace had just finished building a T37 and thought that it would be great to have a thread that covered all of Tippecanoe boats so he started the Tippecanoe Thread hoping to get a lot more people to post their experences with the T class boats.
Talking to Will I understand that the T37 has a large following in the Northwest with several yacht clubs having larage fleets of T37s that they race. Even though I live in Honolulu I will
follow any thread that covers Tippecanoe boats hoping to pick up pointers on the T37, T50.
Before the Tippecanor thread was started I called Will to get his aproveal about a Tippecanoe thread and asked if he would send an email out to all Tippecanoe boat owners about the new thread and asking them to post on the site. Hopefully your thread called T37PNMYC will pull in more sailors in your area that will add their two cents worth in either thread.

D,
Attached are the pictures of the mail boom you wanted. There are a lot of ways to rig these, this is what I have done.

Originally Posted by Hot Tuna

This thread is dedicated to the Pacific Northwest Model Yacht Club

Don't want to take away from the T37/T50... Nice boats but being in the Great PNW, can you point me in any direction regarding the "Cascade 30" class? Local to SEATAC it seemed? Very interested.

Thanks.

These are the jib

Here is the pic of Bowsies made from a circuit board. These seem to be just the right size. They are a bit difficult to cut but that just means that they will be nice and strong. The ones i made from the popsicle sticks were not strong enough last Saturday. I think this will solve the problem. An added benefit is that the ends of my fingers are nice and smooth from holding these and sanding all the sharp edges off .

I have sailed with these a few times now and they have worked great

Great idea using PC board. My only concern is how well they will hold up in sunlight. UV is a killer to many untreated plastics. I have tried some of that I-beam like formed PVC that model railroaders use and had it fail and under load on the water....not fun.

If you don't want to spend the time making them, At about 40 cents each, Midwest Model Yachting sells them with three different size holes for different size line and in stainless steel. http://www.midwestmodelyachting.com/RunningRigging.asp

I usually get the Pekabe version off eBay (toyboat00 is the seller - sister of the guy that runs Worth Marine), but they are out of them right now. The Midwest version are cheaper anyway.

Midwest also sells the SAILSetc gooseneck/vang for 1 meter size boats with round masts.http://www.midwestmodelyachting.com/Goosenecks.asp I have one on a US1M and it is a very professionally made fitting.

On my 1m racing version of the T37, I will probably make one from CF disks and various RC airplane parts - see picture below.

A nice looking hull deserves quality fittings.

FC

Sail arm and attach point up under the aft starboard corner

There are lots of ways to do this but these are my current rig
Jib

Here are a few pictures going back to the beginning. I glued stop blocks inside the hull instead of pushing pins through the sides. Make sure to leave a little extra space so the sides end up proud of the deck and the bottom. If the sides end up below the surface of the deck, you will end up sanding through the veneer to make the deck flush.

Could someone weigh their boat and give me the AUW (all up weight - that is ready to put in the water)?

Thanks.

FC