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Old Aug 31, 2014, 09:16 PM
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United States, IN, Greensburg
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With 2.0mm your probably looking at wire drive, my Aquacraft Mini Mono is wire drive (and fricken expensive) and I think the Litehawk/Joysway flex shafts are nicer.The important thing is paying attention to your motors rotation, you do NOT want reverse using a flex shaft.The coils tighten against themselves as the motor spins, when you reverse it spins the coils the wrong way and it loosens them.The flex shaft flexes more so it isn't a big deal if you over tighten a 2.5mm coupler.With a solid shaft it would throw it off balance though.

But that will also save $ when you try finding your preferred motor.Since you don't need reverse you can try some budget aircraft equipment to test different kv ratings and lipo cell combos.
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Old Aug 31, 2014, 11:09 PM
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United States, AZ, Tucson
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So are there readily available shaft and prop options? That's my biggest factor is availabilty. I would like it easier for the end user to print, assemble, and have fun. Preferably sourcing all components from no more than 2 vendors (prop, shaft at one, say HH. And motor, esc, and servo at another)

Initially I was looking at the horizon hobby (proboat) stuff because it's a simple 2mm shaft, 2mm coupler, and would simply attach to 18-22mm brushless motors since most of them have a 2mm motor shaft.
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Old Aug 31, 2014, 11:31 PM
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If your sure the Pro Boat parts will fit the motor you want to use then I would try them first.If you start printing these hulls then I might try buying a early version from you and pull parts out of some of my boats to help figure out other options people can use.

But id mainly just avoid the parts out of Ft series boats, I saw you mention them and I've worn out a few of the plastic couplings.
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Old Sep 01, 2014, 12:13 AM
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Not positive, but they advertise it as 2.0mm.

As mentioned, I am not set on one or another, just want to make sure that whatever drive and prop combo we choose, is easily adaptable to multiple motors (IE, an easy coupler, and common motor shaft size) as well as widely available.
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Old Sep 02, 2014, 01:15 AM
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If you are going with a sub 1ft boat 2mm is fine. I own two of the proboat 9in boats and can confirm the information I have provided thus far about the driveline and quality of parts. The coupler fits a standard flat type 180 motor. I bought 5 extra props for my own personal micro boat projects these are the best off the shelf micro props currently available in glass reinforced plastic for 2mm drive lines.
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Old Sep 06, 2014, 06:03 PM
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Sounds good.

Sorry for the lack of an update, I've been extremely busy with other (and slightly more important) matters.

Just started working again.

How large of an opening would most people prefer?

And is a 25mm by 25mm Motor mount large enough for a wide variety of motors? I am assuming so.
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Old Sep 07, 2014, 01:50 PM
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Hey Guys! Just posted the current version of the boat!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:455132

You will find that this is currently just a shell. If you decide to give it a go, you will have to figure out a motor mount, rudder, and prop shaft.

This one has currently only been floated, with weight (quarters), so performance, and if it will even get on plane, are yet to be proven.

Total print takes about 3 hours. I print it on a solidoodle 3, with 15-20% infill and slice with Cura. The boat is very simple, and any slicer software should do it very easily with little mistake. Depending on your settings, you may not even need support for the arms, I do print with support however, because I am printing at .3mm layers.

Total print takes about 3 hours, I do 3 prints. One print is the Sponsons, Arms, and Aft (assist) floats. Then I Print 1/2 tub, followed by the third print, the other half tub. The half tub files also come with the half hatch file.

Once I actualy order shaft, motor, and prop, I will design the rest. (motor mount, etc...). However, the current plan is to make a channel in the tub, that the (flat) motor mount simply slides into, from the top. This will make it easy to bolt in a motor, without having to fiddle with funny angles, etc... I will also eventually incorporate the prop shaft guide, as well as rudder or rudder mount. I am still split on whether or not to use the pro boat rudder assembly, or design my own. If I design my own, it will be a #11 Exacto blade (dulled on purpose), with a 3d printed sleeve. The blade will be glued into the sleeve, and the sleeve will pivot on the assembly.
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Old Sep 25, 2014, 01:36 AM
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I am very impressed, not sure how far along you have got since last post. I have a race challenge that I am limited to a BJ9 proboat. I have 100% unused interior. unlike your approach, I will be going to attempt to be the first that I can tell to take a BJ9 to 4s brushless... so not even the drive line will be used. I love the idea of 3d printing and your design is nothing less than an amazing proto that looks like it will scream with stability.
let me know if you need parts. I saw a 2s test on the stock brushed motor it did 23k+ based on full charge 8.4v with amp meter only running est 2.5a-3.0a? don't remember the exact I was impressed it was that low for the bench test.
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Last edited by crankin craig; Sep 25, 2014 at 02:10 AM. Reason: info add on
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Old Sep 25, 2014, 11:25 AM
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Hey Craig! Thanks for the kind words! The project is definitely still a go, I have just been busy recently. I will get back at it shortly. If you aren't using your internals, I would gladly take whatever you don't need.

The bot seems to float fairly well and with what seems to be a good CG position with only using dead weights. My biggest concern was figuring out what hardware to source in order to make it am easy build for others. At this point I am thinking he proboat hardware would be ideal, unless horizon randomly decides to cancel.
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Old Sep 25, 2014, 01:10 PM
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an idea for you, i have found nano-tech has a 2s 1000mah "airsoft" battery 20-40c very thin and long. it will give you nice run time compared to the common 250-350mah's
Weight: 51g (including wire, plug & case)
Dimensions: 101x20x11mm

looks almost perfect to ballast and hold your CG and fit in your really narrow body

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...SOFT_Pack.html
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Old Sep 25, 2014, 01:19 PM
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you can also saddle bag the same idea with twin 1s already wired together.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html
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