Originally Posted by Toysareforkids

I have a question? How close or how far should the prop be from the cowl on the 90A. I just mounted the motor on mine to see where my Dad placed it, and it looks real close, about a 1/8" or less. I have about a 100 detailing pictures of 4 different full scale planes, and non show this very well.

Pat

This 90A is 3-3/8" from Cowl to Prop, so roughly 3/4" to 7/8" is okay.

Today after shoveling imaginary snow for 2 hours (they said it would-it didn't)-not that I care,I don't like snow all that much- I rested.

The elevator control was installed early on,and the rudder cables needed attention today. I had made the rudder horn previously, so I was set.As a precaution against cable failure,I installed nyrod 'runs' in case I need to replace one or the other cables, they can be slid into place through the housings..Plan ahead.

I'm placing the receiver,battery,and rudder servo under the scale seat,for easy maintenance.(they never need attention, if they're easily accessible).

The Full Scale has leather exits for the rudder cables,so I'll install a balsa back-up for those to glue to.
Rudder and Elevator hinges are standard fare, and they are installed...I put in blind nuts and 6-32 bolts to retain the stabilizer. Dowels in the rudder base rib strengthen it,and maintain the offset while gluing it in place.

shoveling imaginary snow for 2 hours You should be inside building the H*** with the snow

I ran the controls to the tail,using inner nyrod as rudder cable guides,and larger pieces for the steel elevator pushrod guides.

All that needs to be done is the covering and final installation of the control surfaces,and the cables can be adjusted for length, and crimped.

The Princess and I went on an exploratory trip today..We hopped in the car to test the wind powered generator operational speeds.With one hand on the wheel and one out the window,down the road we went.
18 miles an hour......that's when the tiny propeller over comes the resistance of the motor and starts spinning.

I have a three volt flashlight bulb attached to the wires,and the bulb glows dimly at 20 mph , brightly at 30 mph, and burns out at 40 and above.

I don't want to use a voltage regulator, but I need to test the out put voltage with a meter next., and get higher voltage bulbs....you gotta start somewhere.

Are you using bulbs or LEDs? The voltage ratings on LEDs are pretty wide. You won't have the burn-out problem.

EJWash

Bulbs....Now that I know it works, the next step is to check the voltage...

I had thought if I used bulbs, I could control the speed of the generator by the resistance of the bulbs.-add enough that the generator would be hard to spin up....

Voltage check first.- But it works, well.

I'm guessing you will wind up using a regulator of some type. There are quite a few choices out there. Some of the DLG guys are use a very lightweight one to regulate a 2S lipo for their RX's and servos. About $20 or so. Here is one example. http://www.skipmillermodels.com/prod..._regulator.htm

If you are adventurous you could build your own. There are several threads in the electronics forum here on the subject.

Ken

I made the "piano" hinge for the access hatch in the 'boot' cowl...The model fuel tank is serviced through this hatch.

This trick has been in use forever....Remove the hinge pins from the amount of hinges required and replace them with one piece of music wire.Bend a tiny "ell" on one end and push the wire through all the hinges.Cut the wire about 1/8" long, and slightly bend it over, to keep it in place..

The full scale has a removable wire for servicing it.

In going back over your photos it struck me that except for the larger lumber, the RC accessories and the ply nose, how very like smaller scale FF like is the Monocoupes' structure. Good, relatively light design

Yes-I had built my first one to be powered by a Quadra 35 cc engine, not knowing any better.....
After years of watching and learning, I saw how light weight the model is,11 -12 lbs..This nose area is sheeted and plywood to avoid 'dead' weight to balance it....might as well be strength, instead of lead.

It was airworthy for many years, until I sold it, and that gentle man thought the throttle was an "On - Off" switch..

Knowing that I flew at 1/4 throttle most of the time,I realized that a .91 4 cycle would be fine.

I just had the three views enlarged to 1/4 of full scale.The kit has few deviations from scale outlines, and I believe they are 'interpretations'.,rather than out and out mistakes.

Yeah, I'd want the elevators to match the drawing.

Originally Posted by loNslo

Yeah, I'd want the elevators to match the drawing.

And so they will ! 1/2 an hour will rectify that..I haven't compared that troublesome vertical yet, but soon.

I would bet your fin/rudder will not match Westbrg's drawing. IMHO the only visible error that reaches right out and grabs you (me, anyway) is that wayward feature on his otherwise excellent scale drawing. Again, make yours like the photos of the plane you are replicating in (relative ) miniature.

While Precision scale used to measure the drawing directly against a competitior's model, the judges rarely got a chance to directly compare one to the other. In today's sport scale the best a judge could do is look at one, then the other. Then look for any major outline deviations from the documentation drawings. Not the same thing at all.

Originally Posted by epoxyearl

I made the "piano" hinge for the access hatch in the 'boot' cowl...The model fuel tank is serviced through this hatch.

This trick has been in use forever....

Looks like I'm not old enough to remember "forever". Or, maybe i just forgot I've not seen the hinge trick before. That is slick and I will find a use for that some day.

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks

Ken