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Old Dec 11, 2014, 11:03 PM
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Blaster 3 build

So I am building a blaster 3 and I was wondering if anyone has had any luck running the rudder and elev pushrods inside the boom as opposed to external as the design calls for. Is it worth doing?
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 11:17 PM
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What a coincidence. I am building a B3 for some one, and I intend to run the push rods inside the boom. In fact, I did that just this afternoon.

I prefer internal push rods strictly for esthetics. I used to fly Taboos, with external push rods, and they worked fine (although much smaller and finer than the push rods with Blasters). There is no inherent advantage to internal push rods that I am aware of. It's just that the B3 push rods are so bulky to me. It's a personal problem I have, I'm afraid.

I also did internal push rods on my own B3s, which I let go to other people about two years ago.

I prefer thinner, lighter push rods to those provided. I use either stainless steel in teflon, from RCBuilder.com (and, he may no longer be in business); or carbon in teflon from Oleg Golovodov.

I make a slot in the side of the boom about an inch forward of the aft end of the pod. The two push rods go into the slot in parallel, and are glued with CA to the side of the boom. The elevator and rudder servos will line up an dpickup the appropriate wire.

At the aft end, I make slots for rudder and elevator as appropriate. I pull the housing as tight as I can, and fix in place with a drop of thin CA (to wick into the fuselage) and followup with medium CA for the external part.

I can provide pictures tomorrow, if you are interested.

FWIW: I also do aileron servos in the wings of B3s, and eliminate all that external, drag-producing linkage. That, plus lighter, thinner after-market tails will make a very different bird of your Blaster: higher launching, further ranging.

Yours, Greg
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 11:23 PM
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Thanks Greg great info. I would love to see some pics if you could post em up.
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 11:29 PM
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Oh yes and what tails do you like?
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 11:50 PM
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Are these the pushrods you were referring to?

https://www.rcbuilder.com/Stainless-...sings_p_9.html
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 11:05 AM
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racer:

Here are a couple of fotos.

The push rods insert from the tail, and are surprisingly easy to pull out at the nose. I typically fix first at the nose, then pull them tight and glue at the tail. A lot of people use rare earth magnets to get full-length adhesion the entire distance of the boom (and drip thin CA to run along everything), but I have found that if there is at least an inch firmly attached at each end, you're probably alright. Heresy to many.

In this case, I had on hand the set with one 0.014 and one 0.018 push rod. Either set will do. I bend Z-bends at the servo, then do a 90-degree bend at the tail.

Oleg's carbon rods work just fine as well, and are not much thicker than ASK's steel rods. I have not talked to ASK since November, and some one mentioned that he may no longer be in business.

Good luck.

Yours, Greg
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 11:10 AM
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racer:

My favorite tails of all time are from Swindell's, in England - and, they are no longer available. This particular set is one of the last in captivity, and is left-handed, to boot.

Next favorite: from Oleg, who used to offer a kevlar tail set for the Taboo. Also no longer available.

Which leaves tails from other, reputable suppliers, like dlgjunkyard. I haven't had any of his, but have seen them, and I will be trying them next. Go to the RCGroups classified, and keep your eye out.

For push rods, any stainless steel push rod already in teflon, anything up to 0.020. Also any similar sized carbon rod in teflon (z-bends are made from wire, attached with heat shrink and CA).

Let me know how it goes. Internal pushrods make a clean, neat, reliable installation.

Yours, Greg
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 12:04 PM
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Greg,
You say SS in teflon? what is wrong with regular piano wire? does it rust and get draggy? or strength?
besides ask where does one get SS wire?
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkski View Post
Greg,
You say SS in teflon? what is wrong with regular piano wire? does it rust and get draggy? or strength?
besides ask where does one get SS wire?
SS fishing leader is what I use. Any fishing supply store has it in many sizes. Bass Pro Shop is nearby so I got mine there.

Trey
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 12:30 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
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As it has been remarked upon in another thread, that some SS fishing leader has a coating on it.

The brand I use seems to be OK, but others had said it felt draggy when installed in the teflon tubes. Polishing it with superfine sandpaper or a scotchbrite pad removes the coating.

BP
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 11:50 PM
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Alrighty I might give ASK a try. But I think I get the general concept. Thanks again for the help. I'm definitely gonna try running them internally.
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Old Yesterday, 12:35 AM
Some.. call him Tim...
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Just ordered my blaster three! This is great info thanks!
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Old Yesterday, 07:59 AM
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Cool. I can't wait to get mine finished up.
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Old Yesterday, 12:59 PM
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Here's the Blaster 3 as built up for a local flyer. Delivered yesterday.

Swindell tails (lighter weight, thinner, less drag); in-the-wing aileron servos (avoids all that iron-mongery hanging outside); internal push rods for tails (see pictures above). I did this for my two Blasters of several years ago, and loved them. They ranged further, and flew faster which helps on windy days.

If Kirby can arrange his receiver and battery to avoid any nose weight, it will fly at a wee bit less than ten ounces.

Yours, Greg
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Old Yesterday, 02:04 PM
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Awesome looking good. I almost went with a green one. Mine is black with pink fades on top and white stripes on the bottom.
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