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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I wanted to mention that during my driving recording test with my car charger tonight, I got that spitting static that has been heard in toher posted car videos. So, I think it is probably normal, and probably induced by the cars ignition system (theory only for lack of any better guesses). I plan to do some more tests in my car, both with and without the car charger cord powering the camera. Then I'll have better info. If anyone else has experience with this, please post your findings. so we have a broader base of data.
Did you try it in the car with the ignition off?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:23 PM
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United States, LA, Moreauville
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Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
I have been trying using test leads with some straight pins.

Is the outer case neg ? And how do you orient the plug? Looking at it with the wider part to the bottom do the pins read left to right (1 - 5)?
Looking into the connector with the wire going away from you, and with the wide part on the bottom, the pins are 1-2-3-4-5 left to right, and the outer shell isn't connected to anything! The last pin on the right should be ground, you can check that one without opening the charger up. It should trace through to the cigarette lighter plug, on one of the two metal tabs on the side. Only one is connected though, the other is just there as a spring to hold it tight I guess.

There should be that one ground pin, then one other pin will have 5V one it, it should be either pin 1 on the left, or pin 4 next to the ground pin. The other pins are not connected so you can't short them. Just be careful not to short pins 4 and 5 if those are in fact the two "live" pins. There's no telling what will blow...

I would check between pins one and 5 and see if it has 5V first, if not, carefully try pins 4 and 5!
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Did you try it in the car with the ignition off?
Very briefly, but i was also testing the video record buttons at the same time, so didn't get a good sample. I'll test again tomorrow.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Very briefly, but i was also testing the video record buttons at the same time, so didn't get a good sample. I'll test again tomorrow.
That would probably identify the source of the interference. I would assume the camera doesn't come with much RFI suppression circuitry.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Looking into the connector with the wire going away from you, and with the wide part on the bottom, the pins are 1-2-3-4-5 left to right, and the outer shell isn't connected to anything! The last pin on the right should be ground, you can check that one without opening the charger up. It should trace through to the cigarette lighter plug, on one of the two metal tabs on the side. Only one is connected though, the other is just there as a spring to hold it tight I guess.

There should be that one ground pin, then one other pin will have 5V one it, it should be either pin 1 on the left, or pin 4 next to the ground pin. The other pins are not connected so you can't short them. Just be careful not to short pins 4 and 5 if those are in fact the two "live" pins. There's no telling what will blow...

I would check between pins one and 5 and see if it has 5V first, if not, carefully try pins 4 and 5!
I just got +5.36v on pin 4 !!! On a free Harbor Freight VOM so the thing probably isn't the most accurate in the world but I wasn't about to use my GOOD VOM

Pin 5 is Neg as you stated. I got nothing on Pin 1 so I carefully checked pin 4and 5 and came up with the reading.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 11:06 PM
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So my theory was right... (more importantly I soldered the wire back to the right pin... lol)

Maybe they're using the normally empty pin to power the camera and still allow it to function as if USB isn't connected. Might be worth looking into, but I won't be the guinea pig... I don't really need external power, and only have one camera, and like it...

Thanks for confirming that!
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Looking into the connector with the wire going away from you, and with the wide part on the bottom, the pins are 1-2-3-4-5 left to right, and the outer shell isn't connected to anything! The last pin on the right should be ground, you can check that one without opening the charger up. It should trace through to the cigarette lighter plug, on one of the two metal tabs on the side. Only one is connected though, the other is just there as a spring to hold it tight I guess.

There should be that one ground pin, then one other pin will have 5V one it, it should be either pin 1 on the left, or pin 4 next to the ground pin. The other pins are not connected so you can't short them. Just be careful not to short pins 4 and 5 if those are in fact the two "live" pins. There's no telling what will blow...

I would check between pins one and 5 and see if it has 5V first, if not, carefully try pins 4 and 5!
I'll place my bet on pin #4 having the +5V from the HD car charger. Since pin #1 is standard +5V and pin#5 is standard ground, those would be used by standard PC and charger USB plugs to normally charge the camera, with the camera's additional circuitry to permit charging AND going into video recording mode being reserved for pin #4. The camera's circuit board picture shows that all 5 pins are soldered to active circuit traces, so all 5 must be used for something. Since Pin #4 is either standard open or standard ground, a normal USB charger plug would not likely do anything even if pin #4 were grounded. But if +5V were there, as it would be only from the car charger, with appropriate circuitry in the camera this would be the trigger to both charge and allow the camera to record. I don't see any other possible way for everything to work the way it does.

<EDIT> sheesh... you guys should be sound asleep by now! You proved my hunch right before I finished the picture and got it posted! <EDIT>
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 14, 2011 at 12:03 AM. Reason: Too slow to post
Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:05 AM
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This cam needs a larger objective lens. would be great to see a DIY large objective with wider aov. Thanks for all your work on this.

Cool lil cam either way.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
That would probably identify the source of the interference. I would assume the camera doesn't come with much RFI suppression circuitry.
I also got some strange pulsing static on my very first videos I posted when near my kitchen, both just outside the back door and further down the first floor hall towards my den. There are wireless router and digital phone base units nearby, and the pulses went away as I got further away out the front door and upstairs. So my guess was RFI causing those pulses as well.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Kailex View Post
This cam needs a larger objective lens. would be great to see a DIY large objective with wider aov. Thanks for all your work on this.

Cool lil cam either way.
Slightly wider focused image to cover a bit further beyond the edges of the CMOS would certainly help eliminate the vignetting!
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Slightly wider focused image to cover a bit further beyond the edges of the CMOS would certainly help eliminate the vignetting!
Yes larger objective lens to cover the cmos. That would be a 2 for 1 upgrade gaining more aov being a larger objective. Ide keep the same aspect ratio as the cmos for lowest distortion.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:14 AM
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strange audio interference

I get a click every second in the audio with the sd#8 on my 95 tahoe dash. I haven't received my #11 yet .I always thought it was the camera, I now know it is interference. Thanks again guys keep up the good work.

Would be nice to get our user input to the manufacture.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:45 AM
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If someone figures out a better lens to use, I'd be very interested! Does anyone know what thread the lens is?

You could always adapt it to a standard M12 threaded lens holder, but then the lens would be quite a bit larger than the sensor... lol I'm sure there's some options out there, just need to know what thread to look for. I see plenty for M5, M6, M8, etc.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 05:04 AM
HBZ Champ Bush Edition + DX6i
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Espoo, Finland
Joined Jan 2011
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What's the weight of the #11, with and without battery (and case), if someone has this info? I would like to install this into HZ Champ, and need to keep the weight down to a minimum - planning to take the power from the flight battery (shouldn't affect the flight times much, I assume), and probably go for a permanent installation.

Any suggestions for a case - shrinkwrap? Little bit terrified to open the box and possibly bricking it in the process, but just don't see it feasible to use it as is. Mine is still on its way.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 08:10 AM
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Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
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Hey Guys,

I have 4 #11's on the way. Anyone have a polarizing filter to try on the front of a #11?

If I'm following this thread correctly the #11 has a wider angle lens than the #3. For trying to capture air to air shots is the #11 lens whats needed or do you think there is a need to try a wide angle phone cam lens on it?

Thanks for all the great info.

Joe
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