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Old May 07, 2012, 08:27 AM
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Hi guys,
Sorry for all of the questions.. I am only starting with planes again, used to fly them when I was younger.
So what motor would you say is good for that plane? PittSpecial, are your friend happy with his choice of motor?
RM I am flying heli's as well so I might be able to help you with that gyro. (If you need any help..)

Thanks!
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Old May 07, 2012, 12:12 PM
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by Reef_rc View Post
My RimFire .10 burnt out recently. Not sure what happened. There seems to be burnt residue inside the motor. Seems like inside wire melted due to short or something. I have 3 RimeFire .10 motors and this is the first to go under for whatever reasons.

The EF 40 amp ESC Pro is good. I have since installed another motor back on and ready to take this baby back in the air.
Again, the stock setup and with the recommended propeller assuming 3-cell Li-POLYs will draw (Current) around the high 20's and closer to 30-AMPs. That is a lot of current for the wire strand size they used on this motor.

Have you checked the temperature of the motor during a typical run?

Too much heat will melt the glue holding the magnets and / or holding the wire windings and will cause issues!

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Old May 07, 2012, 12:15 PM
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nirtza79 View Post
Hi guys,
Sorry for all of the questions.. I am only starting with planes again, used to fly them when I was younger.
So what motor would you say is good for that plane? PittSpecial, are your friend happy with his choice of motor?

Thanks!
Yes, Gerry is happy however, the AMP draw is rather still high around 26-AMPs static on the bench which I am sure this is much lower in-flight, however, he has not been seen to fly this model too much because it is far from a relaxing bi-plane and you have to fly it with great caution when you perform any acrobatics such as Hammer Heads as it will just lose too much altitude on the way down assuming you power her off too much. You need to be on it at all times.

C
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Old May 08, 2012, 04:56 AM
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United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by nirtza79 View Post
Hi guys,
RM I am flying heli's as well so I might be able to help you with that gyro. (If you need any help..)

Thanks!
Thanks nirtza, I might have to take you up on that offer beings I know absolutely nothing about gyros or how to set them up. It will be a learning curve for me.
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Old May 11, 2012, 08:32 AM
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Yep...that may have been the culprit. Will definitely keep an out for it.

Flew her again for 6 minutes the other day and the motor definitely was very hot even on a mild day. I am going to enlarge the hole surrounding the plastic motor housing to help increase airflow. I plan to bring out the heat gun to measure the temperature next time just to get an idea. At some point, I may switch motor to EF park 480.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PittSpecial View Post
Again, the stock setup and with the recommended propeller assuming 3-cell Li-POLYs will draw (Current) around the high 20's and closer to 30-AMPs. That is a lot of current for the wire strand size they used on this motor.

Have you checked the temperature of the motor during a typical run?

Too much heat will melt the glue holding the magnets and / or holding the wire windings and will cause issues!

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Old May 12, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Charleston, SC
Joined Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by Reef_rc View Post
Yep...that may have been the culprit. Will definitely keep an out for it.

Flew her again for 6 minutes the other day and the motor definitely was very hot even on a mild day. I am going to enlarge the hole surrounding the plastic motor housing to help increase airflow. I plan to bring out the heat gun to measure the temperature next time just to get an idea. At some point, I may switch motor to EF park 480.

I would really like to buy this plane, but do NOT like the RimFire motor. I'd like to install my EF Power10, but wondering if there is enough room (length) to accommodate it? If not, can the cowl be moved forward?

Thanks!
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Old May 12, 2012, 08:14 PM
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United States, VA, Stafford
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Originally Posted by Raehm View Post
I would really like to buy this plane, but do NOT like the RimFire motor. I'd like to install my EF Power10, but wondering if there is enough room (length) to accommodate it? If not, can the cowl be moved forward?

Thanks!
It looks like you may be able to move it forward eprox 1/4" if you can get it detached from the cowling. It comes preglued in the cowling and is very brittle. I had to enlarge the whole in the center for my motor, and I cut out between the cylinders for air flow and made pushrods for mine. It splits very easily. The picture below has the Rimfire motor. I have since installed an Exceed 480 with an 50 amp ESC since the Rimefire fried.
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Old May 13, 2012, 06:20 AM
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There's 1/2" of space between the preglued ring and the end of cow. As RMCCOR7737 mentioned, 1/4" maybe ideal. see pic below.

EF Power 10 will likely cause CG issue. The recommended motor is comparable to Park 480. I'll be interested to find out if/when you decide to install Power 10 motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raehm View Post
I would really like to buy this plane, but do NOT like the RimFire motor. I'd like to install my EF Power10, but wondering if there is enough room (length) to accommodate it? If not, can the cowl be moved forward?

Thanks!
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Old May 13, 2012, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RMCCOR7737 View Post
It looks like you may be able to move it forward eprox 1/4" if you can get it detached from the cowling. It comes preglued in the cowling and is very brittle. I had to enlarge the whole in the center for my motor, and I cut out between the cylinders for air flow and made pushrods for mine. It splits very easily. The picture below has the Rimfire motor. I have since installed an Exceed 480 with an 50 amp ESC since the Rimefire fried.
I make the length of the Rimfire motor, including the mounting portion of the prop adapter, to be close to that of the Power10 motor length. Remember that the Power10 uses a collet adapter, which can moved forward or back on the shaft to adjust for the cowl.

I can also see how the cowl can be moved forward by adding magnetic spacers. I would agree that cutting the the cowl prop opening would be a last resort.
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Old May 13, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Charleston, SC
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[QUOTE=EF Power 10 will likely cause CG issue. The recommended motor is comparable to Park 480. I'll be interested to find out if/when you decide to install Power 10 motor.[/QUOTE]

From my experience, CG is often corrected with LiPo positioning. Besides, there is at least one opinion out there that the plane is tail heavy.

We shall see.
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Old May 13, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Raehm View Post
From my experience, CG is often corrected with LiPo positioning. Besides, there is at least one opinion out there that the plane is tail heavy.

We shall see.
With the Exceed motor I had to add about 2.5 oz of nose weights, that's with a 2200mah battery as far forward as possible! AUW is 40oz total.
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Old May 14, 2012, 06:54 AM
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Carlos,
I used a 10x7 with my power 10 for my maiden on the SS. I have been flying other planes (Extra 300 32e) and have not checked this forum lately.
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Old May 14, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Carlos,
I used a 10x7 with my power 10 for my maiden on the SS. I have been flying other planes (Extra 300 32e) and have not checked this forum lately.
GC,

I am planning on doing the same when I get my SS. I'm curious about mounting the Power 10. Did you use PZ motor mount, or just an x-bracket?
How about the length of the motor interfering with the cowl/prop opening?

Thanks!
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Old May 30, 2012, 06:22 AM
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I used a standard x bracket. I cut about 1/2 inch out of the middle of the SS wooden structure that the motor mounts to. Look at my photo and comments in report #105 of this thread on page 7. I used a caliper ($10) and measured how far each corner of the motor structure is from the front of the fuse firewall, so I could ensure, I kept the down/right angle the same when I glued the wooden nose structure back together. I used a piece of modeling lumber and laid it against the front of the fuse firewall and used it as a straight edge to ensure I had good straight lines where I would cut. I used a piece of modeling lumber 1/2 inch wider then the first to draw the second set of lines, then cut out the center between the lines. See the photo when it was finished.
Pointer to page 7: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1422570&page=7
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Old Jun 17, 2012, 10:19 AM
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United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
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Wow, what a different plane!

I installed a gyro in my SS yesterday. Went out to fly her this morning. I didn't think it was the same plane. On take of I only needed to input a small amount of rudder myself, the gyro kept her straight and steady. No wiggy waggy take offs anymore for me mister. With the mods I made this 44.8oz plane feels like a cub flying. Flew straight as an arrow at half throttle. No trimming needed. Still have to land a little hot though. I ran out of runway and nosed over in the grass. The flex from the touch down broke the LG skirt loose. No big deal there though. They don't have any room for flex at the exit where the gear comes out of the plastic fairing. I may mod that as well. All and all, I think I really like this plane now and feel it will become one of my keepers as long as it remains in one piece.

Mods made:

Exceed 480 910kv motor vs. recommended Rimfire 1250kv
50 amp ESC vs. recommended 35amp
10x7 SF prop vs. 10x7 speed prop
More down and right thrust on motor about 3 deg down and right
Detrum GY192 head lock gyro vs. butt load of right rudder on take off.
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