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Old Sep 11, 2012, 12:41 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
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Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
I have no interest in changing the way I fly. I want a stiffer/shorter flybar to reduce flybar strikes when flying the way I like to fly
Sooner or later modifying the helicopter finds a way to fly better and avoid flybar strikes. Then WL-Toys uses the idea on the next model V911. See what trouble you are causing!
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 12:46 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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That's my kind of trouble!
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 01:05 PM
My Corter Is Borken
United States, OH, Newark
Joined Jun 2012
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So which new FP and/or CP heli should WL Toys clone next?
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 01:09 PM
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United States, VA
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Originally Posted by MC808 View Post
So which new FP and/or CP heli should WL Toys clone next?
How about a Genius CP or Mini CP clone BNF for $50-$60?
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 01:11 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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z'omg, I would love a MiniCP clone BNF that I can bind to my Turnigy9x. I want someone to keep my (soon to be) nanoCPX company.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 01:35 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
nanoCPX
A 100mm blade diameter fixed pitch helicopter followed by a 100mm collective pitch helicopter would be something WL-Toys could do. Sell at half the price of the 190mm V911 and sell twice as many too.

I need something smaller for indoor winter flying that flies as good as the V911. A v929 RTF is on the way, could be interesting flying it indoors.
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Last edited by Ribble; Sep 11, 2012 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Sweden, Helsingborg
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Id love something at the size of a mini/genius and something around the 150-250 size that could handle wind better. Living at the coast really has it downsides.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 02:40 PM
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Poland, Śląskie, Bielsko-Biala
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Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
A v929 RTF is on the way, could be interesting flying it indoors.
Order yourself V939, this is INTERESTING indoors !!!
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 03:13 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
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United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by shafter View Post
Order yourself V939, this is INTERESTING indoors !!!
Got my v929 yesterday...was doing flips and rolls with the tx set on #4...awesome....I even bound one of my v911 to the v929 tx and set on #4, my v911 flys like it is on steroids....
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 04:03 PM
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United States, CA, San Jose
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Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
How about a Genius CP or Mini CP clone BNF for $50-$60?
I want one I would settle for a Super FP clone or solo pro 129 clone.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 04:13 PM
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United States, CA, San Jose
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I would think a stiffer flybar would be more pron to breakage with a side crash.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
I am saying that you fly the helicopter into the flybar. Then to avoid flybar strikes, you stiffen the flybar. This stops the helicopter from tilting into the flybar more than is stops the flybar from tilting into the helicopter.

My very first Yellow V911 flight had about 30 flybar strikes and punched a hole in the canopy. The next flight only had a few strikes. Now I get only the occasional Yellow V911 flybar strike. I did not change the Yellow V911, I changed the way I fly it.

Change the flybar and you change the way the helicopter flies.

Change the way you fly the helicopter and there is no need to change the flybar. Flybar strikes are telling you that you are over-controlling the helicopter.
I agree whole heartedly.

At any point in time, the flybar weights want to stay in the plane they are rotating in. The link arms cause negative feedback on the control surfaces.

With the wet noodle, the flybar bends and has less negative influence, allowing you to force the canopy into the flybar.

If you stiffen the flybar, you increase the negative feedback and you can't force the canopy into the flybar.
While you may be saying, "hey I can use more control stick with the stiffer flybar and not have a canopy strike", I contend that it is because the stiffer flybar decreases the control authority that you can apply.

The wet noodle will teach you to be a smoother, better pilot.

You won't be doing things that require high negative feedback - i.e. won't be relying on the stabilizing flybar to save you from yourself.

As you get better, remove the weights...
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Last edited by RicksterRC; Sep 11, 2012 at 04:43 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 05:12 PM
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Just had a tail motor die in flight. How can I tell if it is the motor or control board? Also, where can I get a replacement the fastest?
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SamNo3D View Post
Just had a tail motor die in flight. How can I tell if it is the motor or control board? Also, where can I get a replacement the fastest?
First, look at the FET on the board (lower right on PCB as viewed from the front).
The one I burned out (tail rotor stuck), burned itself up completely.
It left an obvious smoldering crater on the PCB.

Unsolder the wires from the board and touch them to a battery.

An AA might work (haven't tried it).
With the LiPo, it will run real fast... so be ready.
I wouldn't run it full out for long.

Or I guess you could swap the motor wires on the controller board and spool things up.
If the failure goes with the motor, it's the motor, if not, it's the controller.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 05:44 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by SamNo3D View Post
Just had a tail motor die in flight. How can I tell if it is the motor or control board? Also, where can I get a replacement the fastest?
I blow at the tail rotor to make it spin. If it keeps turning smoothly for a long time, then the motor is bad - presumably the brushes are gone and nothing to stop it from turning.

If you never did it before and do not have a good one to compare to, then not much help.

Look at the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) where the tail motor wires are connected. Gently bend the wires near the PCB with a toothpick and see if they flex too much, as in a broken wire.

Look at the PCB around the tail motor wires for crispy creatures. Smell that area for smoke.

No visible damage means you cut the wires at the tail motor, scrape enamel off, and touch those wires to a 3.7 volt battery and see if the motor works. Leave enough wire on both sides of the cut. If the motor is bad, replace it and solder to the old wires. If the motor runs, then there is enough wire to solder back again.
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Last edited by Ribble; Sep 11, 2012 at 05:56 PM.
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