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Old Feb 28, 2014, 03:03 PM
Evolution take time
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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I see.

Peel ply give the inner surface texture something for the spars and joining to bit into.
Perforated release plastic , has lots of small holes in it to let resin through.
It comes in different grades ( Less holes or more holes ) also smaller holes and larger holes.
When not using it , and having a lot of breather. Your breather sucks a lot of the resin out.
Perforated film helps you control how much resin you want to take out of the laminate.
50/50 Resin to cloth ratio.
Optimum for glass etc and can go as low as 30/50 for some carbons.

Tim
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Old Feb 28, 2014, 07:18 PM
Entropy Happens!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
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Thanks for that clarification Tim. I did not realise that.
I have some pink coloured perforated sheet that I got from CG composites Qld. It has small holes, closely spaced. I'll use it as well as the peel ply next time, to reduce the de-bulking of excess epoxy.
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Old Feb 28, 2014, 09:14 PM
Arrarrar!
josh18's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wagga Wagga
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Hey, I thought it was either perf film or peel ply, not both. If you use peel ply doesn't that act as a transfer medium for excess resin? Or are you using the perf film as well so you can re-use the peel ply? That would make sense.
Cheers
Josh
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Old Feb 28, 2014, 09:42 PM
Evolution take time
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Yes alway use both


I have a few different types of perforated film. All have different size holes and spacings.
The one I use is pink also and holes are about 5mm apart gives me best results.
I never use peel ply twice , but it can be done , but the peel ply does fill up with resin as it's woven and so you inhibit the texture left to bond to. So not really recommended for best results.

Peel ply is used for giving a surface texture.

Perforated film is control the amount of resin taken out of a job. Also the Finnish you will get is shinny and not good for secondary bonding ( spars etc)

Little article that might interest you guys.

http://www.cstsales.com/peel-plies.html
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Old Feb 28, 2014, 09:51 PM
Evolution take time
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Just a note.
Using peel ply and perforated film my breather only get dots of resin socking through.
If all your breather wet out you are using way to much resin
I use kinetics R246LV , it thin and get sucked through easy. But as I use the same amount of epoxy every time ( mixed 50/50 ratio). So the roller and plate take a bit and the rest is in the job. So you end up with a very good resin to fibre ratio.
More resin does not = more strength

Tim
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Old Feb 28, 2014, 10:54 PM
Arrarrar!
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Thanks Tim, that all makes good sense.
Cheers
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Old Mar 03, 2014, 03:25 PM
Entropy Happens!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
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New Temperature controller.

I've wired up my new temp controller for the hot box and figured out how to operated it. Very nice little unit; thanks again Tim for that recommendation. It's nice to have good purpose built equipment!

I have a pair of tails in the hot box and have been ramping up the temp in 2.5 deg increments, one step up each two hours. I'll take them up to 47.5 or 50 deg. and leave them for 12 hours or so.
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Old Mar 03, 2014, 03:36 PM
Evolution take time
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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That's great Jim they are a great little unit.
On the ramp up cycle No need to go that slow. Go 10'c above ambient at first and 10 an hour after that.
10 an hour cool down is fine if you using kinetics resin. 5 is probably optimum
these are the recomendations from anothony at ATL composites.
Cooling down is more critical so you don't get print through from shrink.

I use 10 an hour cool down.
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Old Mar 03, 2014, 08:31 PM
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Ok. Will do.
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 05:34 PM
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Just a note to bump this thread and report that I'm still waiting for suitable weather for moulding.
We are just about at the end of our wet season now, so it might dry up soon............
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 08:11 PM
Arrarrar!
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That sucks that you have to wait so long Jim. Have you worked out what happens if you go ahead in bad conditions?
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 08:58 PM
Evolution take time
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim.Thompson View Post
Just a note to bump this thread and report that I'm still waiting for suitable weather for moulding.
We are just about at the end of our wet season now, so it might dry up soon............
What are you waiting for ??
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 11:14 PM
Entropy Happens!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh18 View Post
That sucks that you have to wait so long Jim. Have you worked out what happens if you go ahead in bad conditions?
No I haven't. For all I know, it may be worrying about nothing and the precaution my be just a baseless superstition. However, I'll be getting on with again soon. I've been considering the cut off point to be above 70% humidity.
I notice Sean is working lately with epoxy and I know from former posts that Tim does not worry about the high humidity.
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 11:32 PM
Evolution take time
timbuck's Avatar
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I work on the 70 % theory as we'll , when doing gel coat or making molds etc.
Spraying 2k paint is no worries , spraying acrylic has some small issues.

When bagging skin's etc , it can be pouring rain due it almost 100 % of moisture is vacuumed out of the laminate.
So it really depends on what your doing.
If only using WAX as a release some time came be issues of the wax not drying enough when applying coats, which in turn pull the coat off you just applied BIG issue
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 11:48 PM
Entropy Happens!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbuck View Post
.....................
When bagging skin's etc , it can be pouring rain due it almost 100 % of moisture is vacuumed out of the laminate.
.............................................
Yes, I just recently build a little 1200mm span vac bagged wing for a plank during the wet.
Some details and a picture on my blog.

One way or another, I'll be back on moulding Wompoo parts this week.

edit: I will build a pair aileron only wings - thinking of moulding the servos into the wings.
Any comments?
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