It's on page 3 of the manual. 3s 3200 mah + 2s 3200mah in series for a total of 5s.

But I think I saw somewhere in this thread that 5s is not enough power.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...s#post13065363

I'm thinking about getting the ARF myself and I've been reading about it.
11lb ready to fly is pretty good. Perhaps worth building the kit version for the weight saving?

The Top flite ARF manual rcommends a 3 cel and a 2 cell at 3200mah wired in series because of space limitations with the Rimfire motor. I don't think 3200mah is large enough... I am using a scorpion S4025-12 and will start with a 16x8 prop and may try a 16x10 . For batteries I am heading for 4 +2 cells at 4500 mah.

Yes 11 lbs all up weight is great for a painted and detailed aircraft.

I decided I am going with a servo in each horizontal stab driving separate elevators and plugged into different receiver ports. Will try and get pics tomorrow.

I did a change on the front steering hookup and wil get a picture out today I hope. This way you also have some shock resistance and bypass going through the battery area. I am also just about finishing up putting ATX 94761 digital servos in the tail. Weight gain in the rear won't be that much as you get rid of the push/pull metal rod and outer guide tube. What I will be doing is runnig two separate lines into 2 receiver ports so If I should loose one servo then I still have the other half for control to get back home rather than a major control surface depending on one servo. the ATX 761's ,tiny as they are; are metal geared and 55 oz.in torque each at 4.8v . More than enough. Setup costs much more but what is an airplane worth ? There might be digital micro servos cheaper out there but not anywhere better.

Here are the pics of dual ATX 94761 servos in the h/stab for the elevators . total servo torque 2x 55 = 110 oz/in . The servo wiring will be separate into 2 receiver ports as I will have to reverse one servo with the transmitter. When done this way, if one side dies I still have the other elevator to get you down. If both die then it's rekited. I am also contemplating on using an ATX 94820 servo in the tail for the rudder or I may do a pull-pull cable setup . Not sure yet.

The post office just delivered a package with my recommended GP electric motor mount ; WOW real nice quality ! Haven't seen anything like this . Also a straight bolt on setup as far as the backing plate is concerned. Now when my Scorpion 4025-12 arrives arrives will have to see just how centered it is .

Clik on the pics for pic comments

Here are a couple of pictures as to what I have done to replace the front reinforceing ply strip for the main landing gear . The front 5.5 inch piece I will cut out and replace with a battery axcess door that is a bit narrower than the ARF version and should still give me enough room to install and remove my batteries . The door will be about 5 inches long by estimated 3.5 inches wide. I will go wider if necessary. The support has not been removed in this picture yet but with it out of the way I should not need as big an opening as the ARF version.

Here is the outside looking in with the bottom battery hatch ; length about 4.5 inches by about 3.5 in wide. cover is made but will work on the latching after Christmas. Smaller than the ARF version but with the center portion out will work fine. Gotta go buy a turkey.

Here is the positive locking motor battery hatch . Decided this over using magnets as more positive lock. Ready for the BIG job ....... glassing next . will start next week.

Here are the setups of the flap horn and Dubro ball and socket. The horns are 3 ply each and shaped the same as inner horns. They will be glued in permanently when flaps are primed and sanded. Makes for easier sanding.

Moved the horns on the right flap for better servo placement. I am using ATX 94820 digital servos for 50% more power at 76 oz/in ,lighter with metal gears. Also the same servos on the ailerons.

Also setting up servo plugs into one plug when installing the wing at the field for faster setup and flying with no chance of having the servos plugged incorrectly.

stegl, great job on your Cessna. I'm assembling the ARF version while adding modifications here and there. Your input is inspiring and helpful. I'm thinking about removing the center beam over the battery hatch for better access (I may want to use a single 6s pack). Would I need reinforcement on the sides instead, you think?

I'm planning to use Airtronics 94820 servos also, for ailerons and flaps at least. Thinking about using pull-pull for rudder (don't like the long pushrod linkage) and a separate servo for the nose gear. Keeping an eye on your progress!

Thanks.
I thought about using a pull-pull on the rudder but not sure how the angles would work out with the angled hinge line on the rudder . Both cables should be kept tight on both swings of the rudder. Or were you going with external rudder horns ? Or ?
The 820 servos are real little gems . Have been using them in my Deuces and H9 Twin Otter and running flawlessly.

With regard to removing the battery door beam ; I would add the reinforcing similiar to my previous postings or at least something similiar.

Originally Posted by caesar95

stegl, great job on your Cessna. I'm assembling the ARF version while adding modifications here and there. Your input is inspiring and helpful. I'm thinking about removing the center beam over the battery hatch for better access (I may want to use a single 6s pack). Would I need reinforcement on the sides instead, you think?

I'm planning to use Airtronics 94820 servos also, for ailerons and flaps at least. Thinking about using pull-pull for rudder (don't like the long pushrod linkage) and a separate servo for the nose gear. Keeping an eye on your progress!

Hi Caesar; You need to post some pics of your mods . Maybe I can learn something . Regarding the servo direct steering. Stay with metal gears as the nosegear will tear up nylon gears. You might consider the setup I have as it appears to allow just enough flex to handle any hard jolts without stripping gears but yet allow good steering. Especially on grass. Thanks again

Weight gain on glassing the ailerons, elevators and rudder came out to 23 grams or .811 oz. Plan to start on the wing next , possibly today.

Thanks for the feedback. Here is someone who used pull pull for the rudder, and I kind of like the idea.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10708317

I took out the center beam over the battery hatch and added smaller ply support on the sides. The ARF uses 6 sets of magnet for the hatch, kind of overkill I think (tempted to take off the middle ones but I guess I'll leave them for now).

I also trimmed the front wing support beams and added reinforcing carbon tube pieces on the backside. Didn't like the stock arch shape.
That's it for now. I'll keep working. I have to get to my eflite twin otter too.

Yes , when you removed the center support beam you pretty much did what It did but mine was in reverse. Done different but similiar results. Good idea. Is yours the ARF version ?

For the front sides I also felt that it was a little weak for normal flying also so I laminated some carbon fibre between another layer of ply where you put the carbon dowl. Nothing will survive in a crash but I wanted some extra strength for flying as that is a big wing hangin there. Thanks for posting.

Yes it's the ARF version. They could have used a little more attention to detail in gluing parts, covering, etc., but maybe I'm too picky. I've seen better quality ARF's. My two other large scale ARFs, Great Planes RV4 and H9/Eflite Twin Otter, are better build quality. Well, they are ARF's.