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The picture Rubis posted does not look like a #16 circuit board to me, but that is beside the point probably. There may be height limitations in changing the orientation of the plug as well. I just loosen the screws holding down the circuit board to let the plug clear the edge of the case. The edge of the circuit board plug can be lifted slightly as I recall. More important to me is how tight the battery plug fits the socket, requiring a lot of force and/or side-to-side wiggling to get the plug to release. That stresses the solder joints of the tiny socket pins, so I do it carefully and slowly with a tool to work it out of the socket. The same issue would exist if the socket were vertical. I've considered hot gluing the socket to the circuit board to give it some strain relief. Maybe it could be permanently tilted up slightly as well to allow the battery plug to clear the case?
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I hope we don't get a lot of posts listing what everyone's favorite editor is for this reason, but since this is "my" thread , FWIW my favorite "do all I need it to do in the easiest way with the lowest price" editor is a German product from MAGIX.com Movie Edit Pro 2013 Plus in it's latest version. But this may have too much capability, too steep a learning curve, or too high a price point for a lot of folks. I mention it ONLY because it is not one of the top 3-4 home use commercial editors due to it's foreign origin, but I've not found any of the othrs I like better.Also FWIW, there is a new Windows Movie Maker now available which taps some built-in capability of new Windows 8 hardware GPU off-loading, giving it a built-in video stabilization toggle. I've tried it and it does a decent job, and it uses a slight video zoom to eradicate the border stretching and visible dancing that was seen in the recent video that used the YouTube "fix" that adds a ton of artifacts to the video which I personally don't like. But this is only available if you are running the new W8 OS, which I find abysmal unless you toggle to the conventional more that mimicks W7 format (and even then, it's abysmal!). I'll just add that the other significant addition the new WMM has that IS accessible to W7 and Vista users is an optional output with H.264 video codec in a standard .MP4 container. This might interest some folks, but I find the Windows standard .WMV packaging and HD codec output is better in many situations, though slightly larger file size. See how I'm getting way off topic! Back on topic, the Time Lapse and Motion Detection functions will not necessarily favor one editor over another because there are third party tools (like PhotoLapse) that can quickly join many hundreds (thousands?) of time lapse .JPG images to form a "standard" MJPEG .AVI video file that can be loaded into just about any editor out there. |
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Charging-function of battery ceased
Today all of the sudden I get no green charging-light when connecting cam with USB. Battery is far away from beeing full (recorded 25 minutes before). Tried several times disconnecting and connecting again - also started and stopped cam inbetween - no success. No mechanical impact to the cam. No low temperature. Had this never before. Any ideas?
Edit: Okay - looked again on the cam after I wrote this (10 minutes later). Now green light was on. I cannot say, how long it took for green light to go on, because I didn't look at cam inbetween. But after connecting cam with USB I waited about 1 minute watching the cam. Nothing happened. So delay was at least one minute, maybe more. So far green light always went on immediately (1-2 seconds) after connecting cam with USB. What could be the reason for sudden delay? George |
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i know this is technically not RC, but could someone answer this question, if i want to use my #16 as a helmet cam, and run it through the usb lead which will be plugged into a usb to cigarette lighter adapter and run off the bikes battery, the usb adapter says input 12v and output 5v/1A, do i need to take out the lipo or can i just leave it in
carl |
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Joined May 2012
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Hi!
1) I was playing with my #16 camera, trying to solder pitch correction module to microphone and accidentally i shorted something on the board. I didn't found any visual marks and camera still working fine. However since that happen camera eating the battery two times faster than it was before! It is the first generation of the camera. I have tried update firmwares, but nothing helps. 2) And also i have the second camera (second generation with tv-out) and it doesn't turning on. I also accidentally shorted something on the board. Every transistors and resistors look fine to me, what could happen? And is any way I can try to repair? Please any advice. It's important for my project. If anyone can target me to the right direction where to look and what to resolder on the board I would be appreciate! |
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