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Old Apr 22, 2012, 06:35 PM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Como
Joined Aug 2010
2,219 Posts
Good to read you got it sort and had a good fly with with this bird.
It really is an nice easy warbird to fly, quite floaty and very forgiving.
There's nothing worse than sweating on a tip stall and resultant death spiral.

I've recent built up the $27 FW190 from HK and it is very similar in behaviour, only a lot faster.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 07:44 AM
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old crasher's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Narre Warren South
Joined Oct 2011
48 Posts
Finally Together

At last after a few little problems, shes together. Must have been a Friday arvo build.
Battled to fit wings for nearly an hour. Stopped and took measurements. Wing carbon tube 210mm long, holes in wings 90mm deep, fuselage hole 15mm thick. By my maths that's 195mm. Shortened tube to 195mm bingo wings fitted. They give you extra plastic clevis's for a reason, two of the ones fitted had been screwed on an angle. Just crap. Bound to DX6I and AR6210 instantly,no aileron servo's pulled the leads, plugged them back in, bingo ailerons. Reversed the direction all good. Love the looks. Will buy a new "y" harness tomorrow and see if I can buy some nylon 1.2mm clevis's. Seems that the LHS's only keep 2mm.
There is a thing about parts in Melbourne Australia for any thing other than Parkzone, Eflite and other so called mainstream type brands. All I can say is they are missing a lot of business. Go Hobby King, hurry up and open in Melbourne.
In my battle to fit the wing, I left some small thumb imprints. Does the tipping hot water trick on the surfaces work. Not bad, but would like to fix.
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Last edited by old crasher; Apr 23, 2012 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 10:41 AM
Tumbling Turkey
Uksaint's Avatar
United Kingdom, Nottingham
Joined Mar 2012
113 Posts
I know what you mean about that wing rod, I found it to be slightly long too but I just centered the gap and tightened everything down and it all fits snug.

I must say the 1.2mm push rods are rubbish. When I was doing all the checking after last nights frivolities I noticed the one on the elevator flexes in the fuse when the ele servo tries to reach full throw. I think I'm gonna replace them with 2mm and see if it improves things. The servo isn't maxed out either and is centered.

You'll find that she's very easy to ding. I've put a couple in the wing just resting it on my cg jig. I wouldn't use the hot water trick unless absolutely necessary as the paint is quite delicate too and I suspect it may crack/flake under hot water.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 10:53 AM
Geez That's A Big Fly
Banjofrog's Avatar
Australia, WA, Parkerville
Joined Sep 2011
1,355 Posts
Change your control wires if you like but she flies very twitchy if you use full throws, if you are after scale flight or slightly quicker response you will be dialling them down anyway.

Shaun.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 11:06 AM
Tumbling Turkey
Uksaint's Avatar
United Kingdom, Nottingham
Joined Mar 2012
113 Posts
Sorry I didn't explain that I'm not using full throws but have seen it flex at the end of it's travel with 65% dual rates. On full throws it bends quite alarmingly and I would definitely not trust it under load. I've flexed the elevator too to loosen it up before fitting together and still no better. I'd probably guess that it isn't doing the servo much good either operating under that much resistance.

At the moment I've got her at 65% d/r & 35% expo and she flies superbly stable with no twitchyness at all.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 02:07 PM
Never Trade Luck for Skill
MERLIN V16's Avatar
United States, FL, North Port
Joined Jan 2005
12,901 Posts
If you don't loosen the clamps in the wing the tube will not slip in and appear too long.

As far as throws it depends on what you are looking for . I never go by % but I do go by measurement. I don't even think I have 1/2 inch of up elevator. I have never seen a Warbird that needed much elevator or Aileron for that matter. I see guys at the field say It's ok to have full up and down "because I'm a light stick" than they proceed to fly and even a 3D plane looks more scale. You can always use full throws on high rates and use a more Scale setting on low that you have both worlds.
M
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 04:56 PM
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old crasher's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Narre Warren South
Joined Oct 2011
48 Posts
Too Long

I measured the depth with a vernier caliper. The clamp starts about 60mm in, the hole depth is 90mm. Once I shortened the tube it fitted ok and clamped down nice and snug. Sure looks nice, cant wait to test her. Weather has been horrible here, unfortunately I'm off overseas for a week. Will have to wait a couple of weeks.
The DX6I reverse on ailerons seems to be common, I have 2 Eflite aircraft and they are the same.

Uksaint, Try thin heat shrink over your control rods. I have used this method and it certainly stiffens the rods up.
Ralph
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 05:16 PM
Tumbling Turkey
Uksaint's Avatar
United Kingdom, Nottingham
Joined Mar 2012
113 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by old crasher View Post
I measured the depth with a vernier caliper. The clamp starts about 60mm in, the hole depth is 90mm. Once I shortened the tube it fitted ok and clamped down nice and snug. Sure looks nice, cant wait to test her. Weather has been horrible here, unfortunately I'm off overseas for a week. Will have to wait a couple of weeks.
The DX6I reverse on ailerons seems to be common, I have 2 Eflite aircraft and they are the same.

Uksaint, Try thin heat shrink over your control rods. I have used this method and it certainly stiffens the rods up.
Ralph
I had to wait 3 weeks before maidening mine due to the weather being shocking. Used the downtime to do a few mods to her to keep me busy

Will try your idea with the shrink tube Ralph. Thanks for the tip
Keith.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 12:59 AM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Como
Joined Aug 2010
2,219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by old crasher View Post
In my battle to fit the wing, I left some small thumb imprints. Does the tipping hot water trick on the surfaces work. Not bad, but would like to fix.
I boil the kettle then add a cup of cold water. This drops the temperature below boiling and helps prevent the crocodile effect. Trickle the water gently into the dent and carefully watch what is happening to the foam and the paint.
I haven't tried it on this particular plane but it has worked for me on others.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:03 PM
Tumbling Turkey
Uksaint's Avatar
United Kingdom, Nottingham
Joined Mar 2012
113 Posts
Well after adjusting the elevator by a few notches on the clevice I took her out for another blast today and wow what a difference!
The plane was composed in the air and very easy to bring in, it was a dream to fly. I have a few changes to make before the next flight though. Stripes on the undersides of the wing are essential, I found that under normal flight it was very easy to loose orientation.
Also getting more cooling to the ESC would be prefferable. It came down warm after the first flight and I didn't go above half throttle, this is despite air holes being placed for cooling. I aim to move it to the vent underneath the motor to try and get a bit more air to it.
Has anyone else found any good solutions to ESC placement?
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:22 PM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Como
Joined Aug 2010
2,219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uksaint View Post
Has anyone else found any good solutions to ESC placement?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1561739
I'm not running the stock ESC but mine remains quite cool.

I installed the F6Fs stock motor and ESC into my HK Extra 260. It tended to run a little warm so I cut away the side vent in order to expose it to full outside air.
Maybe they are a little undersized for the application.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:24 PM
Geez That's A Big Fly
Banjofrog's Avatar
Australia, WA, Parkerville
Joined Sep 2011
1,355 Posts
Up until recently I was running standard ecs and motor for more than 70 flights and she got warm both esc and battery, but I feel that it never got hot enough to be over concerned, that was also flying in a hot West Aussie summer. I think the standard setup does punish the batteries and they would come down very very warm with some swelling but the swelling would go after the battery cooled. I am currently running a 35 amp esc with 1000kv Turnigy motor (same as Brett C) with a balanced MAS 10x7x3 prop, now this setup leaves my batteries warm but not as warm as the standard. The coolest and the most efficient setup I did try was Eflite Park 480 910kv motor and standard esc with 10x7 APC 2 blade my batteries and esc came down cool and I could get easy get 8 mins flight but the performance was about the same as standard. I am happy with the setup I have now as I have a bit more speed and a lot more thrust (the biggest gain) so hand launch is way easier, just give full throttle and away she goes and I still get 6 min flights.

Shaun.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:30 PM
Fly Straight Fly High
tengarang's Avatar
San Jose, California
Joined Aug 2010
3,461 Posts
]hey Guys....ive been reading up on peoples posts, and glad all is working out well for the most part.

I owe the group an update on my f6f....flaps are done retracts are done...they did take a while as i did take my time I must admit...but it is comming along together...tonight will be mounting the motor....

I might think about swapping one outer flap servo out for a newer one as it gets kinda warm...also makes a buzzing sound when flaps extended....does not happen all the time but sometimes....not sure if any of you have had experience with warm servos and what consequences they may bring in the near future...either I swap it out now...or just let it be...some thing of concern i am not sure.....but ill probably do it so I don't shoot myself in the foot should something unfortunate needs to blame....which if it came down to that I will NOT forgive myself......
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 03:50 AM
Tumbling Turkey
Uksaint's Avatar
United Kingdom, Nottingham
Joined Mar 2012
113 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tengarang View Post
]hey Guys....ive been reading up on peoples posts, and glad all is working out well for the most part.

I owe the group an update on my f6f....flaps are done retracts are done...they did take a while as i did take my time I must admit...but it is comming along together...tonight will be mounting the motor....

I might think about swapping one outer flap servo out for a newer one as it gets kinda warm...also makes a buzzing sound when flaps extended....does not happen all the time but sometimes....not sure if any of you have had experience with warm servos and what consequences they may bring in the near future...either I swap it out now...or just let it be...some thing of concern i am not sure.....but ill probably do it so I don't shoot myself in the foot should something unfortunate needs to blame....which if it came down to that I will NOT forgive myself......
Looks like you've been busy!

I'm going to be doing the retracts mod in the very near future and would really appreciate any advice/pointers that you could give. Any pics you may have would be a real help too.

I'll be fitting the servoless retracts from PW-RC when they arrive.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 05:46 AM
Never Trade Luck for Skill
MERLIN V16's Avatar
United States, FL, North Port
Joined Jan 2005
12,901 Posts
I don't like buzzing or warm servos. If it fails on a landing or only one side goes up it won't end well. If setup right there should be no strain on the servo in the down position.
I also recommend a BEC because now you are up to 6 servos and 2 retracts.
A lot of draw for the ESCs little on-board bec.
MERLIN
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