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Old Jun 04, 2015, 07:04 PM
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Lee Liddle
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You might also try some sharp blows with a hammer against the wood near the glue joint, if you can get to it. I've had some good luck with that sometimes. Then go back to do the detail work on what's left.
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Old Jun 04, 2015, 07:25 PM
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Not Funny......
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knife Liddle View Post
You might also try some sharp blows with a hammer against the wood near the glue joint, if you can get to it. I've had some good luck with that sometimes. Then go back to do the detail work on what's left.
Yup, like Lee sez.....

If the plane was built long enough ago to have oil soaked formers then it is reasonable to assume that the glue used wasn't all that special for older poly resin fuselages unlike the more modern Hysol9462.

An easy way? Get a 1/2" to 3/4" wood dowel of workable length to reach the formers and then whack (OK, tap...) that with the hammer.
- Mike
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Old Jun 04, 2015, 08:52 PM
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Lee Liddle
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Agreed, a dowel or other driver of some type will increase reach and accuracy of the "taps", "whacks", "bangs", "POW", SMACKS.........oh, that was Batman the series, lol
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Old Jun 05, 2015, 08:03 AM
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Guys,
Thanks for all the input, allot of good advice here! I will post some pictures today so you can actually see what I am up against.
Kinda like a surgeon getting ready for a procedure I want to have this figured out before and attempt the process so I do not kill the patient.
Hey, maybe I should ask Pdawg for help.
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Old Jun 05, 2015, 08:13 AM
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Man, I have a one-of-a-kind U-2 kit that I bought after someone started it.

He cut the 1/4" ply former himself, and I can tell by the cut line he never was able to color between the lines as a kid. It was then installed by the super-goop method to make up for the gaps, etc. Been thinking for years how to get that out. Was even considering soaking the whole thing in a barrel full of water.

Thanks for the suggestions here.
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Old Jun 06, 2015, 07:34 AM
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Byron F18 Brotherhood

Here are a few pic,s not really showing allot though.
Randy
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Old Jun 06, 2015, 09:50 AM
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cutting the formers

I think the idea of cutting the formers into sections with a dremel and a cutoff wheel sounds like it would be helpful then carefully working the pieces loose. I do have a template for the fan /landing gear former if you need it after you remove that one, may have one for stabilator servo mount as well as I did use them in mine. As I made a new former for the Jet Legend ballbearing stab/servo mounts.
Roger
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Old Jun 06, 2015, 10:58 AM
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On my Byron F16 fuse I used my vibrating saw (not sure what the official name is) with the rectangular blade. I was able to cut along the epoxy separating the old formers from the fuse then ground the remaining epoxy out with dremel tool.
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Old Jun 06, 2015, 01:09 PM
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You need to be really careful though. If it was built like it should have been - glassed with polyester resin, then the glass will not come easily. I've done all my Byrons that way and they get stuck good. The former looks like it has a good bond.

You may be better off scoring the glass with a sharp knife to weaken the joint or you may have to grind them out.

The formers dont really look that bad - it might be better to just leave them alone.
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Old Jun 06, 2015, 06:10 PM
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Lee Liddle
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I have to agree that the formers and joints look good from here. I'd hate to try to remove those. Forget my suggestion of just knocking them loose. I'd leave them anywhere that I could, spend the time and effort on other things.
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Old Jun 06, 2015, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt599 View Post
On my Byron F16 fuse I used my vibrating saw (not sure what the official name is) with the rectangular blade.
That's quite a nifty little tool. We use them all the time when working. We call them "bone" saw's as that was the original purpose for them before they made their way to the construction industry. Surgeons used them when they needed to cut skulls open. By the way the Fein model which are supposed to be the best one you can by, at $350 are not much better than the $39 ones at Harbor Freight, And definitely a must for the model shop.

Dean
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Old Jun 07, 2015, 11:43 AM
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That's quite a nifty little tool. We use them all the time when working. We call them "bone" saw's as that was the original purpose for them before they made their way to the construction industry. Surgeons used them when they needed to cut skulls open. By the way the Fein model which are supposed to be the best one you can by, at $350 are not much better than the $39 ones at Harbor Freight, And definitely a must for the model shop.

Dean
Very true, I use mine all the time I have attended a number of autopsies and the saw used to remove the scull cap is basically the same thing. With all the different attachments they make for them they are invaluable in the shop.

Greg
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Old Jun 07, 2015, 12:25 PM
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I love it, not sure what the actual name of it is, but they are great.

I like the idea of a dowel and hammer too, will have to try that next time around, but yours looks pretty solid.
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