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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:28 PM
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Mini-HowTo
Atomik Barbwire SMX Recoil 450 Motor Mod Tutorial + Upgrades

Since i have had my barbwire i have made lots of changes over the year and i thought i would share what i have done and what many others have done in one thread.

These will be more like tutorials mini how to's with detailed instructions. Feel free to post your mods with a how to's. If you have a mod without a how to it's ok post it i might try and do it myself when i have time and post how i attempted your mod.

Just a note: Please understand that some of these are done in a way that i and others have experimented with and there is not a wrong way or a right way to do them, every one is different and have their own way of doing things, as long as they work i'm all for it.

I will continue to add to this thread when ever i get free time.

Lets get started

1st Flex Shaft Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

2nd Mod Thinning and Sharpening the rudder

3rd Mod De-tonguing + back cutting a x432 and x430

4th Mod Sharpening turn fins

5th Mod Adding Cap Bank to stock esc to cope with motor upgrade or prop upgrade

TBC
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:33 PM
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Part 1 Of Flex Shaft Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Part 1 Of Flex Shaft Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Here's some annotated pictures of how i built my aluminum stuffing tube with brass bushing

The pictures pretty much explains it all

I used aluminum for the stuffing tube and stuffing tube sleave to keep the build light, all brass will work aswell, But will be heavy. All the parts Loctite together any blue loctite will work but anabolic aka sleeve retaining compound would be best.

EDIT: the 1mm bend on the stuffing tube is optional, reason why I did that with mine is to get rid of the ridiculous amount of negative thrust it had when the stuffing tube was straight stock, helps with the nose submerging going fast in the straights and doesnt run as wet. Also it aligned better with my coupler removed alot of vibrations. The mod works just fine with or without the bend.
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:33 PM
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Part 2 Of Flex Cable Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Part 2 Of Flex Cable Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Here are 2 motors i would use for this setup but i'm sure there are alot more options out there.

The Hobby Mate 3800kv would be good with a TFL 432b prop

http://www.amazon.com/Hobbymate-HB28...trex+450+motor

The Neewer/Mystery 4000kv would be good with a x430 prop or x427

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-K...trex+450+motor

Advantage with the higher kv motor and smaller prop when trying to achieve higher speed's on such a small mono hull = better handling

There is also the 3500kv Leopard motor which is more efficient and probably truer on kv than the cheaper motors i mentioned but they still will be a lot faster than a stock barbwire with a better prop.

Micromodder will be testing the Leopard 3500kv motor which I think will be the sweet spot for this hull and setup with a x430 prop De-tongued
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:34 PM
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Part 3 Of Flex Shaft Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Part 3 Of Flex Shaft Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Modifying the motor mount to fit the 450 motor and still being able to go back to the stock motor if you decide to.

The pictures will be annotated with a detailed description of each step.
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:34 PM
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Part 4 Of Flex Shaft Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Part 4 Of Flex Shaft Stuffing Tube + Motor Upgrade

Flex Cable and Prop Shaft + Coupler

You will need a 1/8 shaft with 098 flex cable you can buy it in parts and assemble it (cheaper this way)
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...oct-oc098L-24c

Or you can buy a pre made flex and shaft and just cut it to size (expensive)
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-098L

You will Also need to buy a collet if you don't have the tools to bore out the stock one to 3/17 shaft for the 450 motor.

This coupler works perfect with no modifications comes with a flex but it is useless for this mod.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=65746

then you must cut the flex to the length needed like in the picture. NOTE: some hulls will very so please double check before cutting the flex cable

The rest goes together like putting a regular barbwire together Install and enjoy
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:35 PM
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Part 2 Thinning and Sharpening The Rudder

Part 1 of 2 Thinning and Sharpening The Rudder

The stock rudder that comes with the barbwire is really thick and flat on the bottom which creates a lot of lift to the stern that causes the boat to run at a negative attitude and submerge a lot when going fast

WARNING: it is really easy to ruin the rudder trying to do this mod if you don't have the correct tools because of it being aluminum and making it to sharp or too thin will cause the front edge to bend and chip and both sides must be uniform.

I used an aluminum wet grinder wheel

I will post a how to as soon as i figure out how to do it with basic hand tools

If you want one done you can send it to me and i will do it for a small fee plus shipping
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:36 PM
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3rd Mod De-tonguing + back cutting a x432 and x430

3rd Mod De-tonguing + back cutting an Aluminum CNC x432 and x430 Prop

I have done this to Octura props before they are easy to work with, but the CNC aluminum ones were harder to work with i had to use wet grinding stones on my Dremel then grinding stones by hand to sharpen it and smooth it out.

Well here are the results of the finished prop, I took it out real quick to the pond by my house and as suspected the stern does not spin out anymore and there is a lot less lift which keeps the stern planted really happy with the results i think now i can go higher in motor kv the hull is handling the speed increase well and really throws a nice rooster tail.

The the last pic is the prop i used from OSE in its stock form before the mods.

Mini How To on this coming soon.

Result with running this prop

Sorry for the short upload it was from my phone so i had to trim it, will upload full video when i get on a computer

Atomik Barbwire Back Cut De-tongued X432 Test (0 min 28 sec)
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:36 PM
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 06:49 PM
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 08:52 PM
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What ESC you using?
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Old Apr 23, 2015, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microhelidude View Post
What ESC you using?
I'm using the Stock esc with a Cap Bank on one of my barbwires and a Hobbywing Seaking 35a v2 esc from Kintec racing on my other barbwire. with the stock esc motor runs a little warm because of the low stock timing i'm guessing using the 450 motor.
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 02:49 AM
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part 1 final pic

why the 1mm bend ??

I am lost or missed it
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9000wner View Post
part 1 final pic

why the 1mm bend ??

I am lost or missed it
The 1mm bend removes some of the negative thrust when the stuffing tube exits out the transom helps with the submerging, its optional, it also aligns the flex shaft alot better with the coupler less vibrations. Will work fine with or without the bend though.

Thanks for pointing that out I added an edit note to that post.
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f.a.r.m.e.r View Post
I'm using the Stock esc with a Cap Bank on one of my barbwires and a Hobbywing Seaking 35a v2 esc from Kintec racing on my other barbwire. with the stock esc motor runs a little warm because of the low stock timing i'm guessing using the 450 motor.
Nice thread!Thanks a lot for starting it.I'll contribute in a week or two when my Leopard powered Barbwire is running.We need to keep this thread geared towards boats that are 3000kv+ 3s, or 4s motors.

2950kv and under already have a current thread.It would be terrible if people start accidentally cutting their props down to 29- 30mm because they didn't understand which boats we were discussing.
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micromodder View Post
Nice thread!Thanks a lot for starting it.I'll contribute in a week or two when my Leopard powered Barbwire is running.We need to keep this thread geared towards boats that are 3000kv+ 3s, or 4s motors.

2950kv and under already have a current thread.It would be terrible if people start accidentally cutting their props down to 29- 30mm because they didn't understand which boats we were discussing.
It was your idea lol, glad it was started to things were getting lost in the other thread atleast I can edit all the mods to the first post so they are easy to find, speaking of 4s now that the mounts are modified would be easy to instal a cheap lower kv 450 motor since it's still going to be a 16 x 19 mm hole pattern direct bolt on.

But yeah that would suck if they cut down their props for a stock motor, props are expensive lol
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