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Old Jan 20, 2013, 03:46 PM
cut cut cut... ****!
jkoosh27's Avatar
United States, PA, Birdsboro
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pa flyer View Post
Just heat them to soften the thread locking compound and screw them off while they're warm. Even a cigarette lighter will work. It doesn't take much heat.
Thanks Pa I thought that might be the key but didn't feel like messing with it unless it actually needed the heat
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 05:23 PM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Flew my 450 for the first time today. No crashes, just a couple short hovers.
My heart was pounding, but it was a blast.
Thanks for the push Blair.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 05:29 PM
Build the Weapon....
Australia, VIC, Berwick
Joined Jan 2013
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Originally Posted by Pa flyer View Post
Yes it's modified. I had a vendor send me the wrong swashplate for the 9116 and rather than pay the postage to send it back I just kept it. I'm not sure,but I think it may be for a 9104.

I took it apart and used the top section with the bronze bushing with the lower from a 9116 swashplate. The bushing has much less slop on the hollow pipe than the stock plastic upper. I don't know how much it actually helped, but I had it and had nothing to lose by using it.
I have something similar to yours, I havent had a chance to test yet but I am hoping for less loss of revs when applying cyclic.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 05:31 PM
Build the Weapon....
Australia, VIC, Berwick
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Originally Posted by resago View Post
What model was it that had compatible parts for the 9116?

Also, might the coax blade have less lift so I could use as bolt on?
If you are adventurous there are also parts from the ZR Z101 and the new V912. I am waiting on several and will update when they arrive.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Pa flyer View Post
Just heat them to soften the thread locking compound and screw them off while they're warm. Even a cigarette lighter will work. It doesn't take much heat.
I'm would like to do the same to my flybar. what tools should I use to trim them?
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 07:22 PM
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Steve_'s Avatar
United States, WI, Beloit
Joined Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laidback_racer View Post
I have something similar to yours, I havent had a chance to test yet but I am hoping for less loss of revs when applying cyclic.
If you are losing power when applying cyclic, your servo throws are set too far.
If the RPM drops, it's because you are binding up against the main rotor shaft.
You could also have a dying swashplate bearing that is partially seizing under
load.

I understand that for a stock 9116, pushing the extreme limits on swashplate
travel is the only way to get decent cyclic action.

That is the point of 90% of my mods, to increase cyclic authority.
The less it weighs, the easier it is for the swashplate to push it around.

I measured the slop / play between the main shaft and the pivot bushing
on a new swash and got .010 inches (0.25mm), roughly the thickness
of 3 sheets of printer paper.

Then I measured one that had 200 flights, and got 0.020 inches (0.5mm),
so they seem to wear well.

The biggest problem is that any play in swashplate is amplified by the head.
That swash Pa Flyer runs sure is looking good, and the V912 looks like it might
work too.

Less slop means more cyclic action, so this is a worthwhile upgrade.

Pa Flyer, yup I drilled out the bottom plate, and plan on drilling out more
parts the next time I do some major repairs.

The lower aluminum side plates I modified may look fragile, but actually they
are still plenty stiff. Another benefit is that in a violent crash, they will bend more,
and absorb more energy. In stock form, they are too stiff to bend in most crashes.

After removing another 8 grams, the head speed at hover was getting low,
so I ended up trimming the blades some more, and now they are 20.3mm at
the grips, and 18.5mm at the tips.

To reduce any chance of a flybar strike to the battery, I shortened it by removing the
threaded portion of the rod (roughly 6mm on each end).
The weights I'm using are 1.1 grams.

I still have not been able to fly it outside due to high winds, but it sure flies great
indoors.

It has gotten to the point where it's behavior is not far off from my CP 6ch.
When I send it off in any direction, it seems to hold it's speed and heading
until you tell it to stop. The tendency to auto stop and self center has been
reduced by a large amount, and I may have finally got rid of the dreaded
pendulum effect.

The only downside is that now you actually have to fly the helicopter, it
will no longer fly itself. I can hold it in one spot no problem, it just requires
more correction.

I can't wait for the wind to die down outside so I can see how it does
in extended forward flight.
__________________________________________________ __________

There are 4 things left that I want to fix:

The first thing is the tail assembly, and those parts are on the way.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1806445

The second is a more precise swashplate. Pa Flyer is using a nice swash,
and the V912 swash will probably work too. An aluminum swash with
precision bearings would be nice, but I'm trying to keep weight down.

The fourth is the strange action of the PCB. There is a large dead spot in the
forward cyclic. When going from neutral to forward on the sticks, the servos
do not move until I get to at least 10%. There is a huge deadband.
Also, I don't like how it moves the right servo around for you based on throttle
input. I don't need the PCB trying to help me fly.
The strange mixing (where both servos work in one direction, but only one servo
works in the other) might be needed for this type of swashplate and head design.

We will find out when someone buys a V912. Hopefully the V912 PCB does
not have all of the same flaws. The board layout looks very close, but the mixing
is probably done in software so it would be an easy fix for the manufacturer.

The fourth thing is the main motor. I don't really need more power, I just want
it to last more than 50 flights, and not cost 4 times what a stock motor costs.
The $14 Xtreme 180 motor is not a much better deal because after shipping
the brushes are close to the cost of a stock motor.
If the brushes last 100 flights or more it would be worthwhile, but it would
take 150 flights for it to begin paying for itself.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 08:58 PM
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Trimming flybar weights

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedRacerXX View Post
I'm would like to do the same to my flybar. what tools should I use to trim them?
Ideally, it should be done on a lathe, but lacking one you could just do it with a cut-off wheel in a Dremmel tool or something similar. Of course you'll also need a scale to get the weights exact.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:01 PM
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:05 PM
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:16 PM
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I noticed the same thing

After removing another 8 grams, the head speed at hover was getting low,
so I ended up trimming the blades some more, and now they are 203mm at
the grips, and 185mm at the tips.

I still have not been able to fly it outside due to high winds, but it sure flies great
indoors.

It has gotten to the point where it's behavior is not far off from my CP 6ch.
When I send it off in any direction, it seems to hold it's speed and heading
until you tell it to stop. The tendency to auto stop and self center has been
reduced by a large amount, and I may have finally got rid of the dreaded
pendulum effect.

The only downside is that now you actually have to fly the helicopter, it
will no longer fly itself. I can hold it in one spot no problem, it just requires
more correction.

I can't wait for the wind to die down outside so I can see how it does
in extended forward flight.


I was just thinking about trimming my blades further today as the headspeed still seems too low. I guess I'll follow your lead.

I also noticed that with my latest mods it tends to hold it's heading just as you stated. I've been giving some thought to resago's posts #'s 861 and 865. If it can be made to further emulate 6 ch flight I would think that it would be useful as a trainer. Parts would certainly be cheaper for the inevitable crashes.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:21 PM
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Just the top

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Pa Flyer, I looked up the 9104 swashplate and it has a ball link where
the anti-rotation pin should be.

I'm researching the issue now.
I just used the top part with the bushing from the 9104 swashplate. The ball links for the servo rods weren't as widely spaced as the 9116'seither. I press fit it into the 9116 lower and use ca to secure it.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:34 PM
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 10:17 PM
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My overpowering of the main rotor by the tail rotor problem I encountered has now been resolved. I remembered reading awhile back, in the old thread, that a guy was having rotation issues. He replaced motors and boards with no luck, then he replaced his tail assembly and "pow", it was fixed. So instead of changing out my pcb I decided to switch out the tail motor wires with a set I had. Took the bird out for a quick test with the tx rudder trim set to 000%, and had a very stable hover with just a few ticks of sub trim below the left stick. I will try my xtreme again soon.

Ken
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 11:26 PM
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9116 Swashplate

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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:22 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
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Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
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Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
[ EDIT ] Won't work. MCX2 shaft is 6mm. I guess you could use a sleeve.

I wonder what the shaft size is?

This is for a Blade MSR / MCX2.

The 9116 shaft is 4mm.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Microheli-Co...item2a27aaed52
MSR: 4mm, too.
-mike-
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