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Old Feb 10, 2013, 01:23 AM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhoov128 View Post
Best prop seems to be 5043?
For the 2300kv motor, yer. For the 2500kv motor the 5030 seems best.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 09:01 AM
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United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by bhoov128 View Post
I posted a picture of Johnny holding the plug (after killing the landing lights on the runway) on Facebook, during the power outage of the Super Bowl. What a great flick!
There's a white sale at Penny's!
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 10:24 AM
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Deutschland, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Wuppertal
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Sounds great! Are you using the stock electronics, and which packs are you using? Over the past 3-4 years, I've done a fair amount of RPM & thrust testing on the UMs with various props & batteries. My static test results correlate very well with flight-test results. The only thing I'm missing is current & voltage, as I'm not set up to accurately measure these low currents. I'm also rather shy on 3s test data. I look forward to comparing our results!

Joel
Here is what i did:

I'm using the turnigy nano-tech 3s-180

and the 2500KV stock motor with GWS5030.

First i removed the original heatsink...





...and used 2-component thermal adhesive...



...to glue on a bigger one:



But i i still had shutdowns of the internal ESCcaused by the heat of the VR.
Maybe heat sinks on the FETs would have fixed the problem but i don't want to stress the brick.

So i installed an external ESC, it's the Turnigy Plush 6A:







The brick is now installed a bit backward to preserve the CG.



The wiring is simple:



I programmed a mixer channel 1 to channel 5 in my TX using the channel 5 connector on the brick to control the ESC.

It's funny that the weight of the electronics didn't increase because the 5 thick wires in the fuselage were removed.
Now only 3 very thin and light wires (+/-/Signal) go to the brick.
The thick and heavy wires from esc to motor and lipo are only 1 inch short.
In fact the removed wires and motor-connectors outweigh the new esc.

With a fully charged lipo i get:
165g (5,82oz) thrust
15500 rpm

After a minute it's about:
150g (5,29oz) thrust
14000rpm

My beast weighs 175g (6,17oz) including the 3S lipo and some carbon stiffeners at the wings and the rudder/elevator..

Due to technical problems i wasn't able to measure voltage and current.
I will post voltage and current within the next days.
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Last edited by Strassenkater; Feb 10, 2013 at 10:38 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 10:32 AM
From a Different Planet!
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Lagrange, Ohio
Joined Jun 2005
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I had the exact setup but there are still boards that can not handle the 3S voltage straight into them without shutting down. I trashed a geebee like this. Lasted 1 lap and on the second pass board shut off, it was going very fast when it hit the ground. Some boards can handle it some can't, no way of knowing till you try.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:07 AM
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Deutschland, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Wuppertal
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Exactly!
And for that reason i decided to put an external esc in the beast.
(And the plane even gets 1 gramm lighter, as i wrote in my last post)

The turnigy plush 6a costs only 15,45$ including shipping and it was available from the german hobbyking warehouse, it was deliverd the next day.

16$ is nothing compared to the costs for a new fuselage, wing, etc.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:07 AM
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edge_pilot View Post
I had the exact setup but there are still boards that can not handle the 3S voltage straight into them without shutting down. I trashed a geebee like this. Lasted 1 lap and on the second pass board shut off, it was going very fast when it hit the ground. Some boards can handle it some can't, no way of knowing till you try.
That sucks. Given the great luck I've had running the UMX planes on 3s w/factory electronics (1 V1 Beast, 1 V1 Sbach, 2 Beast 3Ds, and 2 Sbach 3Ds & no problems after many hundreds of 3s flights), I've often thought about trying 3s in my Gee Bee. However, mine had the OCP problem @ WOT on a fresh pack with the factory prop, so I've been reluctant to try 3s on that brick - even though I'm running a 5030. I'd think that the Gee Bee would be a good candidate for an external ESC. That gaping maw can easily swallow pretty much any pack one would want to use, and there's plenty of room for moving things around to get the CG right. Plus, a pylon racer seems to be a perfect platform for a fast setup, and wing-loading would be less of a concern than it is on an unlimited aerobatic ship. Nonetheless, I don't recall seeing any 3s reports on the Gee Bee thread. I wonder why... Regarding the Beast - I like flying close-in, low & slow, as well as big-air, and I really enjoy windsurfing. Therefore, wing loading is of primary concern to me.

Strassenkater,

Thanks for posting the details! You're getting a lot more thrust out of that setup than what I'm getting on 3s with the stock ESC. Here's what I got:

RPM taken under natural light with a calibrated optical tach, 30 sec into each run on a freshly-charged pack:

Pack: Hyp 180 25c 3s
Elevation: 910 ft AMSL
Temp: 70 F

Motor/prop ----- RPM

2300Kv/5043 - 10,700
2500Kv/5030 - 12,870

For reference, here's my 2s data on the 2500:

Motor: 2500Kv
Elevation: 910 ft AMSL
Temp: 70 F

--------------- Hyp 240 - TP 325 65c - Hyp 500 35c

Stock prop - 10,550 ---- 10,770 -------- 11,100
GWS 5030 - 11,010 ---- 11,160 -------- 11,340
GWS 5043 -- 8,910 ------ 9,040 --------- 9,210

Joel
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:14 AM
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Deutschland, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Wuppertal
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Don't use the BEC of the ESC to power the brick.
The problem is the addition of heat if you use ESC and BEC simultaneously.

Use an external ESC just for the motor and let the voltage regulator on the brick do the rest of the work.

So none of them will get too hot.
I tested this the last days.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:16 AM
From a Different Planet!
edge_pilot's Avatar
Lagrange, Ohio
Joined Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strassenkater View Post
Exactly!
And for that reason i decided to put an external esc in the beast.
(And the plane even gets 1 gramm lighter, as i wrote in my last post)

The turnigy plush 6a costs only 15,45$ including shipping and it was available from the german hobbyking warehouse, it was deliverd the next day.

16$ is nothing compared to the costs for a new fuselage, wing, etc.
The board itself doesn't like 3S, has nothing to do with the ESC. I had an external ESC just as you have done, the board still shut down due to the high voltage threw the board.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:20 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Dupe post...
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:23 AM
From a Different Planet!
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Lagrange, Ohio
Joined Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
That sucks. Given the great luck I've had running the UMX planes on 3s w/factory electronics (1 V1 Beast, 1 V1 Sbach, 2 Beast 3Ds, and 2 Sbach 3Ds & no problems after many hundreds of 3s flights), I've often thought about trying 3s in my Gee Bee. However, mine had the OCP problem @ WOT on a fresh pack with the factory prop, so I've been reluctant to try 3s on that brick - even though I'm running a 5030. I'd think that the Gee Bee would be a good candidate for an external ESC. That gaping maw can easily swallow pretty much any pack one would want to use, and there's plenty of room for moving things around to get the CG right. Plus, a pylon racer seems to be a perfect platform for a fast setup, and wing-loading would be less of a concern than it is on an unlimited aerobatic ship. Nonetheless, I don't recall seeing any 3s reports on the Gee Bee thread. I wonder why...

Regarding the Beast - I like flying close-in, low & slow, as well as big-air, and I really enjoy windsurfing. Therefore, wing loading is of primary concern.

Strassenkater,

Thanks for posting the details! You're getting a lot more thrust out of that setup than what I'm getting on 3s with the stock ESC.

Joel
The only guarenteed setup for the GeeBee is to run an external ESC and then run a Castle regulator between the battery and the board so the board still sees 7.4 volts. Leave the external ESC run full tilt on the 11.1 so the motor ONLY runs on the 3S pack and the board still sees 2S. This is guarenteed to work, I have tested it alot. 3S straight to the board may work it may not, even with an external ESC. Sad to say but I went through 3 GeeBee's testing this theory and a few others.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:26 AM
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Deutschland, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Wuppertal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edge_pilot View Post
The board itself doesn't like 3S, has nothing to do with the ESC. I had an external ESC just as you have done, the board still shut down due to the high voltage threw the board.
That's really interesting.
The VR on the brick is rated for 15V input and about 100 degree celsius max.
So i was shure (or wrong) that the VR is not the the problem itself, it's just causing the problem as the VR heats up the FETs and than the brick shuts down the ESC because of the hot FETs?
This would have been so easy!
Maybe too easy?
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Last edited by Strassenkater; Feb 10, 2013 at 11:37 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 09:14 PM
ferndale air force
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Joined Jul 2006
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on a separate note, how about some video of a stock, minus the prop, Beast.

Beastie 10 Feb 13 (4 min 0 sec)
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 10:48 PM
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USA, IL, Sycamore
Joined Aug 2008
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I have the original beast, before the AS3X. It sat around for ever, and when I get it out I finally I have problems. I checked all the control surfaces and they all worked. I then taxied it around the ground to test a little bit and it caught on something, caused it to nose down and the motor stopped and has not worked since.

All servos work, and I can even feel the motor twitch when it makes the beeps during the initialization sequence. Other than that the motor never moves or even makes a sound like it does during initialization.

I tried to search the thread, but no luck on this problem. Well, not with my searches anyway. I saw lots of other stuff, but nothing that helped me. This is the first trouble I've had with a brushless motor setup. Anyone have a thought of what I could check to trouble shoot. I don't have any extras and no one around does so I can swap parts. Sure I could go to the hobby shop for help, but the gas there and back is about 25% of the cost of a new plane. So I'm trying to avoid that until I'm going anyway.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 11:24 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miataman View Post
I have the original beast, before the AS3X. It sat around for ever, and when I get it out I finally I have problems. I checked all the control surfaces and they all worked. I then taxied it around the ground to test a little bit and it caught on something, caused it to nose down and the motor stopped and has not worked since.

All servos work, and I can even feel the motor twitch when it makes the beeps during the initialization sequence. Other than that the motor never moves or even makes a sound like it does during initialization.

I tried to search the thread, but no luck on this problem. Well, not with my searches anyway. I saw lots of other stuff, but nothing that helped me. This is the first trouble I've had with a brushless motor setup. Anyone have a thought of what I could check to trouble shoot. I don't have any extras and no one around does so I can swap parts. Sure I could go to the hobby shop for help, but the gas there and back is about 25% of the cost of a new plane. So I'm trying to avoid that until I'm going anyway.
Throttle off, flick the prop, get your fingers out of the way and throttle up. Might have some debris caught in it?

Edit sorry my bad I didn't see the no-attempts at moving action. Try rebinding, with throttle at 0 point, make sure you don't have any endpoint weirdness going on on your throttle channel on the tx.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:04 AM
If it has wings it will fly...
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United Kingdom, England, Birmingham
Joined Mar 2011
1,128 Posts
I saw the ducted fan and... I'm jealous
can I have the part number please?


Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
For the 2300kv motor, yer. For the 2500kv motor the 5030 seems best.
guys is that for a 2s or 3s lipo?

also can someone expand on this channel 5 business?
which stock beast bricks have ch5 and can someone put a picture where its located on the brick please. I thought all were 4 ch rx & integrated esc and aelerons servo output is from one single channel. id love to get individual servo for each aeleron (flaperons anyone?)

also where do you get your props and motors from. anyone with a HK link by any chance?

last has anyone got a HK equivalent mini servo plugs that would fit the beast (and the mini horizon hobby stuff) ?
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