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But the good thing is the LED indicator works like it should when connected to a standard USB plug charger or the computers USB port... the red LED stays lit to show the battery is charging, and then goes out when it is charged. HOWEVER, this is NOT the case with the car charger cable that comes with it. It will NOT light the red LED at all, but it WILL charge the battery AND also allow the camera to go into the video record mode while it is charging, i.e. the car charger power supply is in series with the camera's internal battery for unlimited recording time, up to the capacity of your flash card. It does this by supplying +5V on pin #4 of it's USB plug instead of the normal pin#1, according to our thread circuit sleuths! A normal generic charger WILL charge the battery but will not allow the camera to toggle into the record mode while it's connected. BUT, if you start a recording with the camera's internal battery power FIRST, and THEN connect the camera to the generic charger, it WILL continue to power the camera until the recording process is stopped. If the camera stops recording momentarily due to the 20 min. stop/save/continue recording function, it will NOT resume recording if using a generic USB power supply. The special USB power plug as described above is needed for recording to resume. BUt if you have flashed in the continuous recording firmware, this procedure using a generic USB power supply will power the camera until the flash memory card is full. |
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Joined Jan 2011
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I just want to know if i do charging my camcorder #11 with USB longer then 1 hour - battery is not die on new version recorder? like as #3 ver. |
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I can't say that it wont kill it eventually, but I have left mine plugged in charging overnight, forgot about it...
Still works fine! The red LED cuts off when it's done charging. Maybe there's a circuit inside that protects the battery... Pure speculation on my part though...
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The vendor circuit board picture shown in Post #2 identifies a small IC on the circuit board that reportedly manages the battery charging. It is unknown how it functions, but this is different from the old 808 cameras, which have a small circuit board packaged with the battery that was reported to merely bracket the camera voltage, i.e. shut off camera power when battery dropped below a minimum level, and shut off the charger when the voltage to the battery exceeded a maximum value. So the charge cycle may not have been optimal for that camera... i.e. no controlled CC/CV stages.
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If you pushed the reset button and get no activity of any kind when hooked to the PC USB, the only thing left to try is to unsolder one battery lead, wait a few minutes, then solder it back and see if the camera will respond/charge, etc. That has worked with some cams. |
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EDIT: gave it 10 min and reconnected, no luck. Airchime I must have gotten the older version that bricks when using the on/off file. I'm quessing that brick means the firmware got corrupted? |
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The most helpful person is the thread starter, Tom Frank. In addition, you should bookmark Chucklohr.com. It is a blog of all the different types of keychain cameras. I believe this HD version is # 11. |
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Anyway, if it doesn't work, it doesn't work... could be infancy electrical failure of some kind. I'd try to get a replacement rather than solder in a new IC if it were me... too many strange things with yours that doesn't follow the norm. Good luck!
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Bill |
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. I'm not convinced it was static that did two of my old 808's in, but rather handling with the camera turned on trying to focus it with a webcam hook up. I wrap the circuitboard with tape now when doing anything with it open... seems to do the job.
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