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Old Nov 15, 2012, 08:09 AM
The "pro" in procrastination
Steve85's Avatar
Canada, ON, Kingston
Joined Mar 2004
2,662 Posts
Nice craftsmanship. I'm subscribed!

Steve
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 03:23 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve85 View Post
Nice craftsmanship. I'm subscribed!

Steve
Thanks Steve. Lets see how the rest of the build goes.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:53 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
I am gaining a little progress, slowly but surely. I got a little distracted when my new system arrived having to get everything transferred and set up. Got 3/5ths of the wing sections roughed out. Once all the major components are framed out I will begin to layout the control mechanics and electronics. I need to figure out how to utilize SopwithMikes aileron method. I need to hinge at the top but I do not want to have to sheet it. Thinking of inlaying CA hinges flush on top then covering...???
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 08:22 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,600 Posts
I think I misunderstood your earlier PM question about sheeting and top hinges.

The system I use is based on Ivan Pettigrew's and is illustrated below. There is no need to sheet the upper surfaces of wing or aileron. The wing sub-spar and the aileron spar have soft block inserts to carry the hinges. As long as the hinges are angled as shown they can be let into the very top of the surfaces, but it is often better to lower the hinge line to 25% or so of the spar depth and chamfer the spars to allow free movement.

I always set up the ailerons to have less down throw than up: about half?

Mike
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 11:21 AM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sopwith Mike View Post
I think I misunderstood your earlier PM question about sheeting and top hinges.

The system I use is based on Ivan Pettigrew's and is illustrated below. There is no need to sheet the upper surfaces of wing or aileron. The wing sub-spar and the aileron spar have soft block inserts to carry the hinges. As long as the hinges are angled as shown they can be let into the very top of the surfaces, but it is often better to lower the hinge line to 25% or so of the spar depth and chamfer the spars to allow free movement.

I always set up the ailerons to have less down throw than up: about half?

Mike
Thanks Mike - I had a duh moment...sometimes we can't see the forest for the tree in front of us...
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 01:57 PM
Balsa Lover
gupi's Avatar
Vienna, Austria
Joined Jul 2010
811 Posts
If you do top hinged ailerons you could also use the technique that gliders often use: just hinge the aileron with the covering. No extra "meat" required, the full length of the aileron is hinged. And you have a completely seamless aileron which makes it aerodynamically better as far as i understand. I've used this technique in a couple of stick and tissue builds to great success. It's not scale, though.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 06:51 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
I didn't get to get much done today. Finished rough framing the other right wing half. I just have the CS to do and the main wings will be all framed up then on to the tail sections.
As silent as it is in these forums tonight everybody must be hard at work....
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 08:38 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
I managed to get all my main wings sanded out. I am not going to do any detailing on any components until everything is rough out. Put together the stab/elev section and sanded out. Made the stab flat 1/8" with some hard bordering balsa I had in the left over bin. Started doing the center section of the upper wings when I noticed I had a slight flaw in my altered wing design. The main spar I had added through the middle of the wing also goes through the middle of the observation window, Well, it's gonna have a smaller window now...
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Last edited by RMCCOR7737; Nov 18, 2012 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 08:09 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
Sanded out the center section this evening. Installed 1/8"x1/2" strips of ply where the struts will attach with blind nuts and clamps so the upper wing can be removed if needed. Nice wing area, 520 sq. in. and 79 sq. in. on the tail surface. Plans say 25 oz weight. I am figuring even if I go 40 oz. wing loading will only be 11.1 oz /sq ft. I hope I am way under that though. My Super Stearman weighs in at 43 oz @ 36" span / 365 sq in (17 oz sq/ft) and fly's great, fast, but great.
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 12:31 PM
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conrad907's Avatar
China, Guangdong, Shenzhen
Joined Feb 2012
402 Posts
Very nice build. Fine craftsmanship never goes out of style.
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 07:56 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by conrad907 View Post
Very nice build. Fine craftsmanship never goes out of style.
Thanks Conrad.

I am finally getting to the meat of the build. I got the fuse boxed up and the stringers on. Now it's starting to get interesting. Laid all the bits together to get a general idea of the size / scale of this bird. It appears to be very short and the stab seems to be very large to me for some reason. I went with a boxed cabin area not only for added strength but for easier placement of electronics, etc. I am burning brain oil over Davids idea of a tray type slide out where as the motor, esc, battery and receiver all slide out the front. I keep getting this image in my head though of a motor / cowling assembly soloing with no plane attached..
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 09:32 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
davidterrell80's Avatar
United States, VA, Herndon
Joined Apr 2012
2,917 Posts
You could make a "pin hitch", like a rubber motor peg, that keys vertically through the cockpit or just behind the cowl, or both, to secure the power tray. Slide the in tray, align it, and stick in the in pin. It could even screw into a t-nut.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 08:02 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
I played with figuring out how I was going to do the side of the fuse when I got home today. It gives it more of a scale "appearance" . That's all I am going for is an "appearance" of being scale. The 1/8" sheet shoved in the fuse is to keep everything squared up until I figure out what I am doing as far as electronics. I left the wide mouth opening in the front end as I am still contemplating the pull-out cowling assembly / tray.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 09:11 PM
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RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
Finished up the sides of the fuse. Nothing special, just a few formers and 1/16" sheeting. I was gonna start building the cock pit on the frame when I realized I was not real sure how I was going to go about it. I also did not want to obstruct access to the fuse cavity as I am going to need to get the electronics and gigging in there. So I decided to build it on the table figuring if it comes out ok I would just attach it to the fuse. Turns out I may just decide to make it into a hatch. After all, you can never have too many access points.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 10:42 PM
The "pro" in procrastination
Steve85's Avatar
Canada, ON, Kingston
Joined Mar 2004
2,662 Posts
That's a nice, clean build. The only problem is that you build too fast for us to keep up!

Steve
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