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Old Oct 14, 2012, 07:42 PM
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It was very interesting seeing the laser cutter working, it is much faster then I would have thought. Thank you for sharing.
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 04:28 PM
Steamy laser dude.
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Oct 2011
259 Posts
A while back I posted some pictures of the hulls after fibreglassing, awaiting sanding.
I was going to buy an electric sander to speed up the whole process, but apparently I'm not allowed to because it is on the Christmas list.

To speed things up though, I borrowed a sander from a friend. Sanded the hull to the desired smoothness, and slapped on some paint. My girlfriend wanted it painted yellow, so it's yellow. I'm going to weather this boat up a bit, so some imperfections were left.

I then added some striped wood for the deck. My selection was pretty limited at the hobby store, but I got enough to make something that looks pretty nice. Or at least different. It's bass, obeche, and walnut. It's not quite symetrical, but neither is the rest of the boat. Only one way to improve though, must build more boats.

I've got a plan for the edges too, so no need to worry.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 07:20 AM
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Let's hope it won't become a yellow submarine :-)
Joke aside, it looks nice, including the colour.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorNeekers View Post
So progress on this is slow as I have a lot of other projects on the go right now.
That being said, I've gotten the base plate all stained up and mounted the engine, as well as the push-pull rod for throttle control. I'm hoping that I'll be able to mount the electronics onto this plank, but with the boiler taking up space it'll be tight.
Here is a pictures showing the engine beside a condenser and what I originally thought was going to be my boiler shell.

Upon acquiring the pipe, I noticed it's not the right kind of pipe. Mandrel formed, but not rolled after. After discussing this with my pipefitter friend, he mentioned that this type of copper tends to split over time, even without load.
He also mentioned that he has lots of thicker pipe, of sizes up to 4" diameters, so clearly I am going to have to go that route.

Considering the price I paid for this piece of copper, even if I just use it as forming practice, I think it was a good buy.

I also got around to laser cutting and assembling the first piece of the boat that this will go on. Most of the pieces will be cut from cheap plywood, but things that will be highly visible, like the Rudder and Transom, I want to look a little nicer.
I used some scrap 1/8" local Alder from work. One side had previously been etched, but since I was planning on sandwiching them up to 1/4" thickness, this wasn't an issue.
The brass rods are where the rudder will connect to the boat. Aiming for a more prototypical look here. Of course now that I upload it, I realize it should have another post at the base. Oh well, plenty of time to add it later.
I would suggest that instead of wood for the base, go with aluminum like I did. Wood may warp over time and will require more maintenance. Also the aluminum acts like a giant heat sink and makes for a more rigid assembly if you combine a 1/8" sheet bottom with angle sides. You can see a picture of what I'm talking about at http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum...1bf394ee54615a

The boilers are custom made Maccsteams 3" dia x 10" long. PM Research sells some nice complete boiler kits - they include everything you need but soldering skill. The horizontal kit also includes a functional pressure dome. It is designed for solid fuel but I am building mine to take a ceramic burner on the end and leaving off the stand.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:06 PM
Steamy laser dude.
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Oct 2011
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Merry Boxing Day to all!

I am wondering if you folks can help me source a component.

I would like to find a valve that can be opened and closed via servo. I saw some the other day while wandering the web, but forgot to make a note of where it was.

The boat itself is coming along well.
I have ordered the various piping components I'll need to hook up the water pump I bought from George to the (still non-existent) boiler and the on board water tank. I've done some testing of the pump and it moves water like a champ. Very pleased with it.

Only thing I'm stumped on (currently) is the servo operated valve mentioned above. Hopefully someone can enlighten me as to where to get one. A hand turned valve wouldn't be a terrible compromise though.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:18 PM
Steamy laser dude.
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Canada, BC, Victoria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen the Rotor View Post
I would suggest that instead of wood for the base, go with aluminum like I did. Wood may warp over time and will require more maintenance. ...


... PM Research sells some nice complete boiler kits - they include everything you need but soldering skill. The horizontal kit also includes a functional pressure dome. It is designed for solid fuel but I am building mine to take a ceramic burner on the end and leaving off the stand.

Good luck!
Thanks, luck is always good to have on your side.

Regarding the choice of wood/metal for the plant layout. It's entirely a matter of what I think looks better. If the wood doesn't end up working out well, or requires too much maintenance, etc, I can always switch over to metal.

As for the PM Research boilers, I'll looked at them and given them consideration quite a bit, but they're not really the right shape or design. The steam dome piece looks nice though.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 04:21 PM
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You can take almost any valve and attach an arm to it for servo operation.

Steve
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 04:45 PM
Steamy laser dude.
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Oct 2011
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I thought as much, but wasn't sure if there were certain types of valves that required more turning to open. I often see in videos people turning the little handles on top of the valve more than one rotation (or so it seems).
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Romania, Bucuresti, Bucharest
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For instance this valve:
http://www.clevedonsteam.co.uk/products.html#Whistle Valve

But there are several other makers.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 11:47 PM
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Oct 2011
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So here's some more progress.

I painted the hull below the waterline, and added some mahogany along the keel. I'm going to need to touch up, obviously, but it's not too bad. I wanted to see how the blue would work with the yellow. It's actually nicer than I thought it would be.

I got a nice propshop propeller too, and got that put in place.
Not sure where I saw the idea for this, but the nub on the flywheel catches on the nub on the prop-shaft, causing the prop to spin. It allows for the powerplant to be removed without having to remove some form of linkage as well as letting the engine go through most of a rotation without load while changing direction.
Testing it under air it did quite well.

I have started working on the rear seating area a bit. The bulkhead that you see is affixed magnetically, so it can be removed if need be. I'm thinking of doing some upholstered seats. Not too sure though. Nice wood benches would look nice too...

I also picked up a valve and began to consider how to hook it up to a servo. The obvious method would be to get rid of the nice cast handle and replace it with a little flat piece of brass.
But I really like the little handle. While watching a video on old locomotives I saw a worker open a valve using something that looked a bit like a wrench.
I made a quick mock-up to see how it would look. I think it might look alright, at least a little different.

Tomorrow I am probably going to laser cut some frames for a paddlewheeler, so hopefully I don't get too distracted by them. If I finish this hull it'll give me something to do while saving up for the Maccsteam 3.5" boiler I've decided I'm going to buy.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 04:29 AM
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Romania, Bucuresti, Bucharest
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That blue yellow hull looks pretty cool! You can add a strip of colour to the separation between yelow and blue to hide the uneven spots.

Regarding hooking up the valve to a servo, your idea is pretty effective while keeping the nice cast handle. You could also keep the handle, remove the top nut, add a strip o brass with a hole to fit over the thread, and tighten it down with the nut. That way the brass strip acts as a lever and is also fully adjustable 360.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 07:47 AM
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Bradford West Yorkshire, UK
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Quote:
Not sure where I saw the idea for this, but the nub on the flywheel catches on the nub on the prop-shaft, causing the prop to spin. It allows for the powerplant to be removed without having to remove some form of linkage as well as letting the engine go through most of a rotation without load while changing direction
Old school coupling before Hucos became de riguor. Used to have two pins 180deg. apart on the disk and a through crossbar, whichever, put a rubber sleeve on one of the pins to keep it quiet when running. (Also saves a metal to metal signal generator).

Regards Ian.
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 08:19 PM
Steamy laser dude.
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Oct 2011
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Finally got a boiler!

Not much new has happened with this build lately as I've been saving up for a boiler and working on other projects.

The boiler I was saving up for was a Maccsteam 3.5'' boiler.
Plans changed when I saw a 4'' on E-bay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-diameter.../111028697377?

So that will be the boiler I will use. Due to the size being a little larger I may need to do some modifications to the layout of this powerplant. But I think it should fit fairly easily.


So glad to finally be a part of the Maccsteam club.


Now I just need to wait for it to arrive...
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Old Mar 18, 2013, 03:06 AM
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Nice find.
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Old Mar 18, 2013, 02:38 PM
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A bigger boiler is good, you can never have too much steam :-) The only drawback can be the added weight, let's hope your hull can carry it.
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