Originally Posted by rsgault

Hull # 67 has arrived on the West Coast. The yard has a bit of a backlog right now so she won't be started for a while. There is a Newport 12 in the "ways" right now undergoing a full restoration that needs to be finished before the C-J can be started. I may have to hire more workers to catch up on the workload. Too many boats-so little time.

If the pay is good enough (like enough to live on) I'll gladly quit my job tomorrow and hire on to build/restore/finish any model boat you have.

Kevin

Hello Again,
Hans tells me the hull is on its way and I should see it this week. A couple of questions if I may.

9. Your pics show the top of the deck beams level with the top of the hull. Has anyone set the beams below the top of the hull so the sub deck is level with the edge of the hull ? This question arises because if the beams are set down a 1/16 or 1/32 then the first deck plank covers the edge of the fibreglass hull; otherwise if the beams are level with the hull then the edge of the sub deck is exposed after planking.

10. Has anyone used balsa for the sub deck? There is an EC 12 build site that uses 1/16 balsa for the deck. http://www.ec12.info/index.htm

Richard

Originally Posted by R Baker

Hello Again,
Hans tells me the hull is on its way and I should see it this week. A couple of questions if I may.

9. Your pics show the top of the deck beams level with the top of the hull. Has anyone set the beams below the top of the hull so the sub deck is level with the edge of the hull ? This question arises because if the beams are set down a 1/16 or 1/32 then the first deck plank covers the edge of the fibreglass hull; otherwise if the beams are level with the hull then the edge of the sub deck is exposed after planking.

10. Has anyone used balsa for the sub deck? There is an EC 12 build site that uses 1/16 balsa for the deck. http://www.ec12.info/index.htm

Richard

9. If you paint the hull it will cover the edge of the sub deck.
10. If you use balsa for the sub deck it would have be sealed an fiber glassed.

Ed

One of our club members put a rub rail arround the edge of the deck to cover the seam.

Thanks for all your answers to my questions; here's another.

11. The specs provide for some tolerance in the beam of the boat. Has anyone determined if wider or narrower; or some combination is faster ? Perhaps widest at the middle of the boat and narrowest at the ends - (??)
Richard

See my post on this thread #93

Originally Posted by R Baker

Thanks for all your answers to my questions; here's another.

11. The specs provide for some tolerance in the beam of the boat. Has anyone determined if wider or narrower; or some combination is faster ? Perhaps widest at the middle of the boat and narrowest at the ends - (??)
Richard

The beam on my boat is set in the middle. Not too fat, not too skinny, just right. But it all boils down to how good you are at setting the sails.

Ed

As I recall, I was shooting to hit the narrow edge of the tolerance, but after measuring after the deck beams went in, my boat ended up in the middle too. Not sure it makes much difference.

Kevin

Originally Posted by Ed Crowell

The beam on my boat is set in the middle. Not too fat, not too skinny, just right. But it all boils down to how good you are at setting the sail.

Ed

Hi Ed, do you have any links to set up the sails properly? Thanks, V.

Vasek,

Here is what I use. It is from the EC12 build site. The first link is for pre-tuning. The second link is for on the water. You can click on the pictures with the mouse to enlarge them.

http://www.ec12.info/pre-tuning.htm

http://www.ec12.info/on-the-water.htm

Ed

Thank you Ed, that helps a bunch!
Cheers, Vasek

For anyone who wants to compete at the top level of racing these beasts there is one thing above all else that should be kept in mind.
"Add lightness"

It is wonderful to see all these CJ`s being built with scale topsides and cutter rigs etc and I understand that is where a lot of the interest lays. More power to your elbow. I salute your craftsmanship.
Please realise that my advise is only aimed at those who want to race and win with a one design boat. Not an easy task. Best wishes from the middle of Middle-Earth.

Hello, Again thanks for your comments.

My hull no is 563. The gunwales are in and ready for interior stuff. I've abandoned a recessed sub deck but thanks for your comments in this regard. New questions svp ...

12. I saw a pic of a single arm setup somewhere, but can't find it. Can anyone direct me;
and has anyone dimensions for this arm ?

13. I'm hoping to plank the hull, purely for aesthetics; but as CaptBit points out, perhaps at the expense of performance. I plan using a 815 BB and single arm which should weigh less than the RMG setup. The single arm allows the servo to be placed low in the hull like the winch setup. The additional weight then will be the planking. This, based on weighing some cedar planks, adhesive etc would appear to add about 120 gr (4.2oz). The weight of finishing should be about the same with or without the planking. So my question... the boat weight will likely exceed somewhat the minimum weight, unless I shave off some lead - should the boat meet the min weight or be stiffer and somewhat exceed the min weight ??

For some perspective; Solings don't seem to suffer from being a bit heavy.

14. What is the lightest anyone has built to (before having to add weights) ?

15. I noticed CaptBit's boat has no shroud racks can you comment, please Capt ?

Ciao,
Richard

This is "BobinSC's" boat, which I believe was built by Hans using a single arm setup, with the servo mounted low and at an angle.

I think it'd be a mistake to shave off lead just to try and make minimum weight. To save a bit you could go with one of the smaller digital servos for the sails instead of the big Hitec 815. My Hitec 7950 is quite a bit lighter, and is more powerful.

#551 weighed 13lbs 8oz with a standard 4cell NiMh battery pack which is about 13oz light. 6123grams....min. is 6500grams

You are planning to plank over the hull? That should be interesting.

My boat does not have shroud racks either, and so far I haven't seen the need. CaptBit's boat has a keel stepped mast and I believe only one set of shrouds, so it may be a somewhat different animal than if you go with a deck stepped mast.

Kevin

Richard

"for some perspective,Solings don't seem to suffer from being a bit heavy"

I have to respectively disagree
my S1M,bought used,weighs in at 10 and 3/4 pounds-and yes in high winds
the weight difference doesn't matter--but the rest of the time I am at a dis-
advantage. I have sailed other club members "10 pounders" and the difference
is ASTOUNDING. theirs do "feel" like a different boat.
There is a yahoo group for Solings, and the guys there go to great lengths at
getting weight out of the hull and into the keel, to extremes I feel unnecessary
but still going for that 10 lb zero ounce all up boat. it's just faster........
Allan