I finally got a chance to fly my CC this morning. It was 15 degrees out but I went for it anyway. There was a slight breeze and needless to say, the plane handled it well but my fingers are still thawing out!

Originally Posted by midnite

OK thanks guys.

Does the D5 have a lubricant in it as well?
If the Faderlube isn't used will the conductive strip actually wear prematurely because of the use of the D5?
Also, was that strip treated originally?

See Caig's website for details on their various formulations. Regarding resistive strip longevity with or without FaderLube - I don't think anyone on here has done the considerable amount of lab testing under controlled conditions that would be necessary in order to make such a determination with any confidence. Regarding the original strip - that's a question for HH engineers.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

See Caig's website for details on their various formulations. Regarding resistive strip longevity with or without FaderLube - I don't think anyone on here has done the considerable amount of lab testing under controlled conditions that would be necessary in order to make such a determination with any confidence. Regarding the original strip - that's a question for HH engineers.

Joel

Over the course of 20 years of stereo repair, I took apart dozens, if not hundreds of pots...radial and linear. Not a single one had a lubed, resistive strip. The faders usually had grease between the slider and the metal case, but not on the carbon. Shooting cleaner into the faders usually migrated lube to the resistive strip, but it didn't start there. I found that once you used spray cleaner in a fader, it would have to be repeated on a regular basis. I used compressed air, when I could.
Of course my experience is now coming up on 15 years in the past, and things might have changed

Does this battery fits in the carbon cub ss? Thanks!!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=28444

44x18x12mm

What are the maximum lipo size?

Yep, that will fit.

Originally Posted by Gerry__

Yep, that will fit.

Great! I took them for mcpx brushless and now I think I will be force to take a UMX plane somewhere later in time ah ah too

Wrong thread, I know but that battery also fits the Sbach 3D. Fully rearwards gives a good
CG. 8 min flights only use a max of 60%. Great value for money.

Originally Posted by GoAround

Wrong thread, I know but that battery also fits the Sbach 3D. Fully rearwards gives a good
CG. 8 min flights only use a max of 60%. Great value for money.

BTW - a TP 325 65c pack will provide a significant increase in thrust-to-weight over that pack, and TP claims 600 cycles before they start to fade away. Plus, they're designed for 12c charging. From what I've seen so far with my large TP 65c packs, 600 cycles does not seem unreasonable. A couple of 'em are well-past the 300-cycle mark & they still perform like they did after break-in - and I charge them at 10-12c!

Joel

Has anybody tested that cheap nanotech battery?
Horizon Hobby do not have the TP 325mAh 65C battery yet but it will cost 3 times more than the Chinese one.

Well, like I said, I am using it in my Sbach but I have only put about 10 cycles through it (at 1C) so not exactly a test. I got mine for £5 each in the UK and think that is good value. The Thunderpowers are more than twice that cash but something I will bear in mind if the Nanotechs don't last!

I just got to maiden my CC, and I just have to say - wow that is an awful prop that they supply the airplane with. It buzzed and vibrated something awful at basically any power setting.

As suggested I swapped a well balanced 5030 onto her and all those problems went away. To my amazement, I put the stock prop on my magnetic balancer and it was as well balanced as I could have made it. I don't know if the spinner was causing the imbalance or what, but my did it sound bad. I was worried the motor may shake loose.

One thing I noticed on each of my first two flights - it always wants to roll pretty hard to the left. I have to fly with continuous right pressure on the ailerons. Both times I plugged in and quickly set her on the ground until initialized. The second time I even did it indoors so I could be certain wind wasn't affecting it. Aileron & flap positions look correct while at rest - am I missing something?

On the stock 180 packs it looks like i can set a flight timer for ~7:00 - does that sound about right?

Originally Posted by habitforming

I just got to maiden my CC, and I just have to say - wow that is an awful prop that they supply the airplane with. It buzzed and vibrated something awful at basically any power setting.

As suggested I swapped a well balanced 5030 onto her and all those problems went away. To my amazement, I put the stock prop on my magnetic balancer and it was as well balanced as I could have made it. I don't know if the spinner was causing the imbalance or what, but my did it sound bad. I was worried the motor may shake loose.

One thing I noticed on each of my first two flights - it always wants to roll pretty hard to the left. I have to fly with continuous right pressure on the ailerons. Both times I plugged in and quickly set her on the ground until initialized. The second time I even did it indoors so I could be certain wind wasn't affecting it. Aileron & flap positions look correct while at rest - am I missing something?

On the stock 180 packs it looks like i can set a flight timer for ~7:00 - does that sound about right?

On the timer, Yeah I easily get 7 minutes of scale flying on my BabbelBat 180mAh packs.

As to the roll, First on initialization, The plane does not have to be upright, only still. I flip the plane upside down and hang the tail off the edge of the box so that it is sitting on the wings. This way the plane is perfectly still, Plug in the battery and hold the plane there until I hear the 3 ascending tone beep, count 1....2....3.... then put the battery in, finally flip the plane.

There should be no roll, How does the rudder look? There is some roll coupling from rudder.

Are the ailerons equal? Did one of the U bends get tweaked making one aileron off center? If you post a pic of the ailerons, and one of the enpennage (straight on from the rear) I'll take a look.

-Brian

The propellor spins to the right so the torque of the motor causes the entire airplane to roll to the left. Add a little right rudder and/or right aileron to the linkages.

Originally Posted by Audioguru

Has anybody tested that cheap nanotech battery?
Horizon Hobby do not have the TP 325mAh 65C battery yet but it will cost 3 times more than the Chinese one.

Yeah, a number of people have done battery load tests & static RPM tests with the popular UMX packs - including me. Nothing comes close to the TP 325 65c packs. Not even the new Hyperion VX 500 35c packs - which are the second-best performers, followed by the Hyp VX 400 35c packs. And then there's the difference in cycle-life. The Nanos won't last for hundreds of cycles like the Hyp & TP packs do.

If you want to see some recent UMX pack test data, check out the UMX MiG 15 mod thread. You'll have to dig a few pages, but someone posted an excellent test-report w/discharge graphs, comparing a number of the popular packs at various currents.

Originally Posted by Audioguru

The propellor spins to the right so the torque of the motor causes the entire airplane to roll to the left. Add a little right rudder and/or right aileron to the linkages.

There is a proper way to flight-trim a plane, and the steps must be followed in the correct order. Here's the trimming section of the CC handling checklist I put together awhile back:

1) Visually inspect the alignment of all flying surfaces with respect to the fuselage & each other. Also check the alignment of the tailwheel with respect to the rudder. For best results, any visible misalignment should be corrected before proceeding further.

2) Be sure that the plane remains motionless during the first 5 seconds after connecting the battery. The plane can be on its back or in any other position during initialization, provided that it remains motionless during the process. Move the aileron pushrods to the second hole out. Move the rudder & elevator pushrods to the innermost or second hole out. If the plane seems overly sensitive, try adding a bit of expo, rather than reducing throw - as there will be times when full control authority is needed.

3) Mechanically trim the plane by adjusting the pushrod U-bends so that little, if any tx trim is required for straight & level flight in zero wind at 50-75% throttle. AS3X interprets excessive trim (more than a few clicks) as command inputs, so tx trim should be used sparingly. Also - never use sub-trims with AS3X. Ideally, flight-trimming should be done in dead-calm conditions. The next best alternative would be flying directly away from yourself into a light, but steady headwind.

4) Measure the CG, then perform an in-flight CG test & adjust as needed: If you need up-elevator trim (mechanical or on the tx) for level flight at 50-75% throttle, the plane is overly nose-heavy. If the nose drops like a rock in turns and/or when power is reduced, the plane is overly nose-heavy. If the plane is trimmed for level flight at 50-75% throttle and it balloons when you go to full power, it's overly nose-heavy. If the nose comes up or doesn't drop at all when you cut the power, it's very tail-heavy. If the plane seems to be overly sensitive to micro-turbulence, it's also tail-heavy. (You can actually hear the difference by listening to the sound of AS3X working the servos.) When the CG is about right, the nose should drop slightly as the plane slows after the throttle is pulled back. If the plane is trimmed for level flight @ 50-75% throttle and you go to full power, the plane should gain altitude, but the nose should come up only slightly, if at all. Measure the CG again after the final adjustment for future reference.


Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

See Caig's website for details on their various formulations. Regarding resistive strip longevity with or without FaderLube - I don't think anyone on here has done the considerable amount of lab testing under controlled conditions that would be necessary in order to make such a determination with any confidence. Regarding the original strip - that's a question for HH engineers.

Joel

Ok.

I'm another guy who maidened the CC today using floats - wind under 5, fresh snow, temps about 22.

The plane flies very nicely. Played with two batteries. Unfortunately a bush was in the way of landing and, yep, wing got a few dings. Nothing that can't be fixed and it flew after without any difference - so now it's christened, so to speak.
My attitude is this is like a new car - always take extra care and worry until the first inevitable paint chip.