Originally Posted by Eagle202

Scott

Why don't you get one of those swivel chairs that they have on a fishing boat. Just strap in and pivot. It would be easy on your back and allow quick direction changes.

Of course you could get real dizzy spinning back and forth.

Vince

AN EXCELLENT IDEA VINCE ! and I can ask Eckace to carry it around for me and set it up-WHAT FUN ! lol
THAT WILL COST ME A LOT OF BEER!!!

Originally Posted by Terry Rigden

You will be able to land a given aeroplane in a smaller place if you fit it with flaps and spoilers but my point is that the Easy star isnt designed for STOL operation. It's too heavy , the prop is in the wrong place and the controls are not powerful enough for really slow speed flight.
To get something in and out of half a soccer pitch with obstructions round it you will need something with half the wing loading of a standard easy star (4oz /sqft) a power/weight ratio better than 1.2 :1 and the fan up the front to blow air over the wing. A high lift wing section , big flapprons so you can harrier it in at high alpha

So yes you can modfiy an ES to land in a smaller space than a standard one but it wont be as good as a model designed for that task.

The ES is a good trainer or camera carrier but thats about it.

Terry

Terry - I won't disagree that there are other plane designs that are better suited to STOL operations, but we're not talking harrier flying here. I know that with the modest flaps I have, and a slight headwind (5 mph or more), the EZ* will drop rather abruptly into a small area. But, fair enough, there are better designs for it (I am in the process of building a Multiplex Fun Cub, that should fall into that category).

Even without flaps, the EZ* can be handled rather well in a confined space, as is demonstrated by Jurgen in his video (of course, it's a tribute to his flying skills as well).

MPX EasyStar Indoor Action (1 min 0 sec)

Cheers,
Roger

Originally Posted by Zaurak3

Even without flaps, the EZ* can be handled rather well in a confined space, as is demonstrated by Jurgen in his video (of course, it's a tribute to his flying skills as well).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9TJ2mwS-Gs

Cheers,
Roger

I'll second that. Although my plane is a Bixler they fly the same. Like in the video, the key is to not make a normal straight in approach. Rather, land out of a circle or figure 8 pattern. It's very easy to keep it in close and land near your feet.

Ted

Originally Posted by G550Ted

I'll second that. Although my plane is a Bixler they fly the same. Like in the video, the key is to not make a normal straight in approach. Rather, land out of a circle or figure 8 pattern. It's very easy to keep it in close and land near your feet.

Ted

I agree. But it is all about experience and skill.
I have both an EZ* and a Bixler. The 'light' EZ* I can land in a designated area close to me. The Bix that has flaps, is even better. With that I can come in with a slower and steeper approach.

Talking of Bixlers *cough*, I noticed on one of their threads that a possible cause of flying off to the right was due to motor torque and an incorrectly-wired motor.

Could this be the issue with my EZII? Weather's too bad to try it at the mo'.

Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer

Talking of Bixlers *cough*, I noticed on one of their threads that a possible cause of flying off to the right was due to motor torque and an incorrectly-wired motor.

Could this be the issue with my EZII? Weather's too bad to try it at the mo'.

I don't know if it has been suggested, but have you done a test glide? This would tell if it is the motor or a control surface fault. Even a warp in the model.
Or have you flown it with power off in a glide, and if so what did it do?
If it was a incorrectly wired motor it would not work or it would be turning the wrong way.

Originally Posted by Flypoppa

If it was a incorrectly wired motor it would not work or it would be turning the wrong way.

That was my understanding to date too.


Not tried the glide yet - it's like a marsh around here, but I'll give it go when it's drier.

When throttled off, it levels up better. When launching at half throttle, it almost corkscrews right.

Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer

That was my understanding to date too.


Not tried the glide yet - it's like a marsh around here, but I'll give it go when it's drier.

When throttled off, it levels up better. When launching at half throttle, it almost corkscrews right.

That doesn't sound like a cause from the motor, then. The torque may assist that tendency, but a warp or misaligned control surface would be needed to make it corkscrew

My tuppenceworth...

Powertrain-wise, my EasyStar has undergone a steady evolution from the original Permax 400 with 7 then 8 cell NiMH and stock prop, then on to a Keda 2700kV 2835 inrunner on 2S Lipos & a 6x4E; and now 3S Lipos still with the 2700kV motor & 6x4E. Each step has shown a steady increase in power, climb rate and ability to perform the sky gyrations that I laughingly pretend are aerobatics. My figures taken during the 2S to 3S mod were

2S Rhino 2150mAh 20C:
93% charge
72W @ 10.2A, giving 320g static thrust

3S Turnigy 2200mAh 20C
48% charge [as delivered from HK]
200W @ 19A, giving 700g static thrust

I'll admit I've only had one session with the 3S Lipos (a development supposedly in support of intended FPV), but on first launch (my normal 1/3 throttle, with full throttle as soon as both hands are back on the Tx), full throttle induced a 45 degree right bank which my slightly enlarged rudder could not correct until I backed off the throttle a little. Later climbs also required a healthy amount of left rudder to counteract the bank, but were less alarming as I was ready for it and didn't let it develop or gain inertia.

In my opinion, the sole reason for the right bank is caused by the clockwise spinning (seen from the rear) cylinder of air coming off the prop. By the effect of angles of attack etc, this increases the lift created by the left tailplane, reduces it on the right, and creates a rightward 'lift' force on the fin. In other words, it blows the empennage clockwise. This was not evident at the 70W on 2S, but has suddenly manifested itself on the 200W (nearly 3x the input power) of 3S. On full size a/c like the Piper PA28, full throttle (esp on take off) requires right rudder to keep it in a straight line for the same reason, so the effect is genuine, girlfriends!

I am reasonably (but not highly) experienced. Newbies who start with this set up may well not be mentally equipped or have the reactions to deal with it when they've lobbed it in the air and slammed the throttle to the firewall.

Also, although the climb rate is far greater than 45degrees and loops can be completed almost from stall speed s&l (all of which is a right lark), part of me thinks that the 2S set up is the most pleasant and best matched to what the EasyStar is.

I thank you....

PS The reaction to the torque of a clockwise running motor & prop would be to turn the model to the left.....

Originally Posted by Flypoppa

I agree. But it is all about experience and skill.

Quite true, but a very easy skill to master. Even for a novice, practicing slow circles and figure 8s is a great training exercise and really not that difficult. Moderate pitch and bank angles, and easy on the throttle is key. Well worth the effort and fun, too.

Ted

...

Originally Posted by scottdearinger

AN EXCELLENT IDEA VINCE ! and I can ask Eckace to carry it around for me and set it up-WHAT FUN ! lol
THAT WILL COST ME A LOT OF BEER!!!

Well isn't that what friends are for?

Besides you might have collided with his plane due to your limited mobility. That could have cost Eckace a lot more than a case of beer. (it is cheaper by the case by the way )

Vince

Originally Posted by scottdearinger

AN EXCELLENT IDEA VINCE ! and I can ask Eckace to carry it around for me and set it up-WHAT FUN ! lol
THAT WILL COST ME A LOT OF BEER!!!

Yes it will!! But even funnier will be the pic of you in the back of my truck sitting in a boat with said chair

I ordered a new fuse for my EZ as I have the blue wings and tail feathers that I wanted to keep as they provide better lift and flight over the grey.
Scott bought me some debonder hope it works as I have never used this stuff before.

One question is if it works how do I debond the debonder so that I might glue my tail feathers to my new fuse and make it hold?

I think it's flypoppa and nightrunners fault for Scotts wreck do to them not helping him with an FPV setup that way he could have seen that he was heading for the ground along with increasing his left stick.

Originally Posted by eckace1

I ordered a new fuse for my EZ as I have the blue wings and tail feathers that I wanted to keep as they provide better lift and flight over the grey.
Scott bought me some debonder hope it works as I have never used this stuff before.

One question is if it works how do I debond the debonder so that I might glue my tail feathers to my new fuse and make it hold?

The white ones have the best lift.

Use denatured alcohol to debond the debonder. Dry it completely by letting it sit in a hermetically sealed room of 87.5 degrees F with 62% humidity for 87 days. It that isn't possible then just blow on it some.

Instead of over priced debonder you can use nail polish remover. I'm sure Scott has plenty of that. Try to get the generic brand that doesn't have anything else added to it but if it does the alcohol will remove it on cleanup.

Or use a 5400psi pressure washer.