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Old Jun 11, 2014, 09:33 AM
Dave
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The Netherlands, NB, Breda
Joined Aug 2013
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Mini-Review
basic review ES9256HV vs DS410M vs TGY-306HV



Since I couldn't find any usefull information test/reviews on the Emax ES9256HV servo's I decided to purchase 4 of them and compare them with my current servos. I am not supported or sponsored by any of them so it will be an honost basic comparison which will also be shared on the other main forums here on the WWW

At the moment I have not received them but already started the thread so people know it is coming

Underneath are some of the given specifications from the manufacturers sites.



Since the servo's will be mainly used in 250 and 450 helicopters and a lot of people have them, My opinion is that all info could be usefull.

I am very curious about what Emax called a "feature" that the servo wire is coming from the back, because personally I think it will give some problems. Not with mounting/installing them, but with the placing of lipo's and the canopy on a 450pro machine.

But lets not jump into conclusions and wait till they arrive.

To be continued
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 10:03 AM
Dave
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The Netherlands, NB, Breda
Joined Aug 2013
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Finally I received my 4 Emax ES9256HV servos today. Nicely packed so I started to unpack them for a first basic inspection.



First: global build and operation

The first I did was hook them up to see if they are working. Probably I am Always unlucky because the last one hooked up did not give any sign of life

So I have already contacted the store where I bought them. (will be continued)

So I continued to see how the build was. And opened them up to check. already noticed with the first 2 that unlocking the screws was not that hard and as also with the TGY's there was no threadlock on them and were quite loose. the 2 others seemed better, but in case you are going to use these servo's it will not do any harm to check this.

so how do they look inside for real (sorry for some bad pictures)

the gears



The gears looked quite nice and smooth although grease was barely there.(will add some later on)

the bottom part.



like also with the TGY's nicely soldered print, but no protection between metal cover and print. So I have to fix this because also came to another conclusion. Because the strain relief is very loose in the bottom part and pops out quite easy this will make that the soldered contact of the wires will certainly make contact with the metal bottom if there is a little tension on the servo cable (and it will on the elevator for sure see later).





Like I already suspected the servo wire from the bottom is not the best solution for at least a 450pro helicopters because the wire will be continuously be rubbing against the inside of a rough canopy with the chance that the strain relief pops out and the print shortcuts against the inside of the servo

You already have to extend your canopy nuts quite a lot to even place the elevator servo, so that the wire is not rubbing completely against the canopy all the time. This is why I think it is better that all servo's have the wires from the side instead of the back.

ES9256HV without extension of the canopy nuts



ES9256HV with 3 nuts extension of the canopy nut (and still doubt if it will be enough)



in comparison
TGY306 with 2 nuts extension of canopy nuts (easy fit)



So upon till now, to be honost, I have to say that I am not that impressed unfortunately. Maybe I am to picky and do people not agree with me (because we haven't come to real testing), but I have to do several things (to much) before I can even use them.

To be continued.
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 02:16 PM
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I didn't seem to have a problem with my Gaui X3 with the servo wires sticking out too far for the canopy. But I was concerned with the wire coming out of the bottom where they tend to protrude in towards the main shaft, etc. But it didn't seem to be a problem though for me.

Now not having a insulator to keep the circuit board from touching the bottom of the servo case is a concern. I need to open mine up and do something about it.

Thanks for noticing that too. That might be why that one servo wasn't working.
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Last edited by earlwb; Jun 25, 2014 at 02:17 PM. Reason: add more info
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 05:58 PM
Dave
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I am not saying it will short circuit but owners of simialr servo's like KST215 and TGY 306 have reported that problem :-) you dont want that it will look like this. So I mention it because precaution is better then saying afterwards.

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Old Jun 25, 2014, 07:09 PM
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Nice Rundown!

I had no issues with my Elevator servo. My issue was the non insulated bottom cap. I just took some electrician's tape, cut to fit, and put it in the bottom of the servo case.

I do not care for the strain reliefs they used. AT ALL. They get in the way of my battery leads up front because I have my leads coming out of the top of the battery tray. I took mine off and shoe gooed the wires to the case. Same result, but better spacing.

I really do like how these servos fly though. I had to actually reduce the agility in my FBL controller because they were so quick. I also had to bump up my deadband 5 points until I got used to them. I'm running 4s and 6s packs, and these servos handle it nicely.

EDIT: I am wondering if a case bottom from a Turnigy or KST will fit, to fix the strain relief issue?
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 07:21 PM
Dave
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This is also for the non insulated bottom cap. that i mentioned it :-)

Its just because its coming out of the back, but I wll manage that somehow. (don't know yet how but have time till I receive a new servo to make the set complete.)

Already tried the inside of the frame but thats a no go will not fit, So I have to be creative.
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcb103 View Post
This is also for the non insulated bottom cap. that i mentioned it :-)

Its just because its coming out of the back, but I wll manage that somehow. (don't know yet how but have time till I receive a new servo to make the set complete.)

Already tried the inside of the frame but thats a no go will not fit, So I have to be creative.
Yes, I never did understand why these manufacturers don't isolate the boards from the cases at all.

HOWEVER, not to change the subject, but:

http://tarot-rc-heli.com/Tarot_RC_He...os_Flight_Pack

Here's CPO's video on them:
CPO Quick Look : Alpha RC 450 Class Servos (A48HV & A92HV) (4 min 5 sec)
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 08:28 PM
Dave
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Yes they look fine. But my budget is already gone maybe next time.

Already got reply from shop to send the faulty one back dissapointed yes, because not going to do that . for the cost of sending it back I can buy 2 new ones (but not going to do that aswell.)

I will see if they are going to offer some service (normally they will) , Thats the down side I think of buying in the far east. But let see what will happen.
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 10:54 PM
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It looks like the internal wiring doesn't have hot glue or liquid electrical tape on the solder joints is this correct?
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Old Jun 26, 2014, 02:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
It looks like the internal wiring doesn't have hot glue or liquid electrical tape on the solder joints is this correct?
That is correct with one exception. One of mine had glue on the wire connection at the PCB. But only one of them, and it looked as if it were to keep a bad solder connection from shorting the signal wire to the positive wire. I removed that glue and re-worked the connection to clean it up.
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Old Jun 28, 2014, 03:57 PM
just gotta mess with it!
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Elevator Servo Mounting

You should have less of a problem with the canopy if you mount the elevator servo to the inside of the mount, rather than on the outside as you have it. Then fit the linkage ball on the inside of the servo arm to get it on the centreline.

Alternatively, if you need the servo to be accessible for maintenance, use the two-piece Tarot servo/mainshaft holder, which also improves rigidity.
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Old Jun 28, 2014, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Doggs View Post
You should have less of a problem with the canopy if you mount the elevator servo to the inside of the mount, rather than on the outside as you have it. Then fit the linkage ball on the inside of the servo arm to get it on the centreline.

Alternatively, if you need the servo to be accessible for maintenance, use the two-piece Tarot servo/mainshaft holder, which also improves rigidity.
I use the Tarot mount, and it does give a little more clearance. Probably around 3mm. Add the metal canopy nuts and I have plenty of space. I still took the strain relief off and used shoe goo instead.

The only problem I have with the Tarot 2 piece mount is if you remove it, it can cause your bearing block to shift a little as the frame flexes when removing the front two screws. Nothing to obscenely bad, but you may need to readjust your mblock again to get it 90 again.
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Old Jun 28, 2014, 06:59 PM
Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Doggs View Post
You should have less of a problem with the canopy if you mount the elevator servo to the inside of the mount, rather than on the outside as you have it. Then fit the linkage ball on the inside of the servo arm to get it on the centreline.

Alternatively, if you need the servo to be accessible for maintenance, use the two-piece Tarot servo/mainshaft holder, which also improves rigidity.
I have at the moment the servo on the inside. Althought I have to say that does not fit without some work. I had to dremel a little off the servo to get that option to work, so if you have a regular main bearing block from a 450pro, the only way to get it inside is to take your dremel and sand carefully a little of the side of the servo where the holes are.

So this is not standard and don't think a lot of people want to put their dremel directly on their new servo's For me it is only a test heli, but never the less still need to extend the nuts. Also if you ever have to service your servos for gears or so, you have to take your 450pro apart to get it out. yes offcourse you can buy all kinds of additional things , but if it doesn't do in a standard way what it should do then it is not a big plus and with buying additional things or other mainblocks , you filter out the benefit of a cheap servo,

I can buy dozens of servo all without problems. I can fit them without hassle on the 450pro, but on this one it gave me some hassle , now hope I don't have to service it

To be short yes it is a partial solution but farrrrrrrr from ideal. and again with additional work.



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Old Jun 29, 2014, 02:37 PM
just gotta mess with it!
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Dremeling

I find it easier to Dremel the inside of the servo mount - but the stiffer, more convenient Tarot unified mainshaft/servo mount only costs about $15, and makes service so much easier I consider it well worth the money. When you use it on Pro V1 main frames, you need to Dremel a notch into one frame to be able to access the lower servo mounting bolt.
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Old Jun 29, 2014, 07:05 PM
Dave
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its not about mainshafts/servo mounts ,because even the Original align is 17USD, or the VWINRC of 13USD or the Tarot of 15USD or a nono brand of 10USD. I am well aware whats on the market. and for me to make it fit is no problem or to buy an alternative mainshaft system no problem

I just take the mentioned servo's and sum their pro's and con's at the end(that was also the intention of the thread) and if people want to add other upgrades (like the 2pcs blocks) thats fine with me but then they know upfront what they might encounter.

On a lot of heli's it will never be a problem and on some it might be a problem
(only in this case it is a heli where there are ++100.000's of them (and clones) are sold and are still quite popular).

I only mention what I encounter and people can make their own choices (or emax,TGY or align) itself has something to think about.
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