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Old Aug 13, 2012, 09:49 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Ware
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hey Jimob I use bicycle cable inside RC car antenna tube. Works great. You will have to remove the adjusters and also drill the caliper end slightly. Use throttle stoppers from gas car for cable ends. I set up my end points on the radio so as not to stress the servo too much. You could add spring if wanted. Also mount the servo end close to the centre of servo for more torque. Rellik has used fishing line with succes also.
Thanks for the response .
Have already tried exactly that but it appeared to be binding somewhere and looked has if there wasn't sufficent pull from the servo to get the right tension on the brake lever .The little plastic arm just before the servo was flexing a bit as well and the brake arm sometimes did not return sufficentlyso the pads continued to rub .
Tried using a couple of springs from a 'click pen' as a servo saver but seemed to be going the wrong way
Tried rerouting the antenna tube inside the fork leg to give a smoother curve but again there appeared to be extra friction somewhere as it did not seem to be tensioning the lever sufficently .
I could well be looking for something that perhaps is over the top but when you fully apply the brake is the wheel fairly firm or still relativly easy to turn .Not looking to do stoppies .
Dont want to sound like a proper knuckle head but what EPA setting did you arrive at .
I found that going to the max of 120 % there was virtually no travel on the servo arm but drop it down to say 50 % there was noticably more travel .
I used to dabble in helicopters so in theory should know what I am looking for but perhaps am complicating a simple solution
To be honest the bike was in a terrible state when I took it over so have no idea as to how much' tampering' took place previously and am still waiting for some parts for the gyro to arrive so it is sitting in the 'to attend to pile' at the moment .
By fishing line I presume you mean stainless steel trace wire which I never thought of and will perhaps give that a try as the original outer is still intact .
One last question is it correct that if you move the AUX switch from AUX to Off the servo appears to move through a full 180 deg to another stop point .
Thanks also for the link to the shock oil thread
Cheers jim
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 10:21 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,754 Posts
try fishing line

Jim,
Instead of bicycle cable, you should look at fishing stores for braided fish line. Here's the best info I could find thanks to Chris N...
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
On the brake cable... how do you manage to break a 40lb test stainless steel braided cable with ptfe coating? You can fish salmon with that brake line!
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 11:13 AM
Editor, RCCA
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It's also called "leader line". I've gone into a store and asked for it that way and got what I wanted.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for the responses and will be at the local fishing shop tomorrow after it opens .
Someway back I did see something suggesting a carbon covered cycle cable but a PTFE covered wire trace looks like the way to go.
Cheers
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 06:01 AM
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Australia, QLD, Burua
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Originally Posted by Jimob23 View Post
Thanks for the response .
Have already tried exactly that but it appeared to be binding somewhere and looked has if there wasn't sufficent pull from the servo to get the right tension on the brake lever .The little plastic arm just before the servo was flexing a bit as well and the brake arm sometimes did not return sufficentlyso the pads continued to rub .
Tried using a couple of springs from a 'click pen' as a servo saver but seemed to be going the wrong way
Tried rerouting the antenna tube inside the fork leg to give a smoother curve but again there appeared to be extra friction somewhere as it did not seem to be tensioning the lever sufficently .
I could well be looking for something that perhaps is over the top but when you fully apply the brake is the wheel fairly firm or still relativly easy to turn .Not looking to do stoppies .
Dont want to sound like a proper knuckle head but what EPA setting did you arrive at .
I found that going to the max of 120 % there was virtually no travel on the servo arm but drop it down to say 50 % there was noticably more travel .
I used to dabble in helicopters so in theory should know what I am looking for but perhaps am complicating a simple solution
To be honest the bike was in a terrible state when I took it over so have no idea as to how much' tampering' took place previously and am still waiting for some parts for the gyro to arrive so it is sitting in the 'to attend to pile' at the moment .
By fishing line I presume you mean stainless steel trace wire which I never thought of and will perhaps give that a try as the original outer is still intact .
One last question is it correct that if you move the AUX switch from AUX to Off the servo appears to move through a full 180 deg to another stop point .
Thanks also for the link to the shock oil thread
Cheers jim
Hey jim hope you found something to do the job. You won't get stoppies with the standard set up, but it will be quite effective. To the point where if you set up your top end point to 120 and low to 0 to 25 and adjust your brake mix percentage to suit how much or little you want. On dirt can lock the front wheel. Not ideal though, I usually run about 50 70 percent mix again depending on feel and add more as the pads wear or adj end point or cable. I think I know what you are talking about with the switch affecting the servo stop point. I set mine to on and do the above. To get the most travel I set the high at 120 and the low at 0 I think. Play and you'll see. no worries with the link.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 06:48 AM
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United States, NY, Poughkeepsie
Joined Apr 2006
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If you want to end your worries about stopping power,try one of these for $35.I bought one and it fits like a glove and has steel gears and 117oz torque.
I also upgraded to a 1.25mm cable to minimize stretching.

http://www.servodatabase.com/servo/hyperion/ds13-tmb
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 08:53 AM
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chktm
Thanks for the further info .I went and got some nylon coated 40lb breaking strain trace wire
from the fishing shop and looks the dogs dangles so should be part of the way to sorting out the brake situation.Just waiting for the other parts to arrive so can try it out .
gurumods
Thanks also for the servo link .I do have a spare Hitec servo of about the same spec so will start off with the standard Venom servo and perhaps change later on .
On the subject of servos the Anderson M5 steering servo seemed a bit low spec and got much better response after changing for a better faster one .Does the same apply to the Venom OEM as dont want to be changing is the original is suitable .
Last question , is there another Rx which would be compatible with the VR3T Tx .
Have been using a Spectrum stick set up in the M5 with no problem so is now a toss up between staying with that or moving over to the wheel set up .
Spectrum Rx are fairly expensive unless a good S/H unit ex EBay
Venom spares are not stocked by many shops here in UK and have done a Rx search but appears nothing available locally
Have relatives who can source and post from US but things normally pack up at the wrong time and would be nice to have a spare.
Cheers
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 10:38 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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I have read comments (in the SB5 tips thread about 5 pgs back, and elsewhere on internet) that the hobbyking radio is the same (they look identical). It sounds like your trying to shop locally and that wont help though.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 01:52 PM
I am what I teach
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This Rx works - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12187
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 02:37 PM
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JohnnyMc& moparren
Thanks for that info
.Spot on and without your leads would never have found what I was looking for .
Much better pricing compared to the OEM part !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Perhaps I should buy a lottery ticket as my luck seems to be running since HK have a Europe warehouse and they show stock which reduces postage charges compared to having to come from US.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimob23 View Post
chktm
Thanks for the further info .I went and got some nylon coated 40lb breaking strain trace wire
from the fishing shop and looks the dogs dangles so should be part of the way to sorting out the brake situation.Just waiting for the other parts to arrive so can try it out .
gurumods
Thanks also for the servo link .I do have a spare Hitec servo of about the same spec so will start off with the standard Venom servo and perhaps change later on .
On the subject of servos the Anderson M5 steering servo seemed a bit low spec and got much better response after changing for a better faster one .Does the same apply to the Venom OEM as dont want to be changing is the original is suitable .
Last question , is there another Rx which would be compatible with the VR3T Tx .
Have been using a Spectrum stick set up in the M5 with no problem so is now a toss up between staying with that or moving over to the wheel set up .
Spectrum Rx are fairly expensive unless a good S/H unit ex EBay
Venom spares are not stocked by many shops here in UK and have done a Rx search but appears nothing available locally
Have relatives who can source and post from US but things normally pack up at the wrong time and would be nice to have a spare.
Cheers
Hey Jim good stuff. I did find the steering in the VMX to be improved with the replacement of the servo with a Futaba one with a transit of about .20 sec. Not super quick as will only make the bike steering action more jerky. With the MM the steering does feel better but I put that down to the gyro. The servo still requires constant trim adjustment, and I'm sure when I change the servo I will notice a slight improvement in getting the bike to go exactly where I want it. Sevo works ok but can be improved. if you have a super fast super strong one lying around you can tune the steering speed with the radio. With these servos I set the speed to about 60 percent. video done on the track was with std servo so you can see works ok.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 09:37 AM
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I mentioned a few entries back I was in the process of having to virtually rebuild a 450 vmx after the previous owner had no idea and just drove it until it finally died .
After some good suggestions here the end is in sight but have just noticed a slight problem and looking for some hints .
The slipper clutch is in a terrible state where at some stage grit must have got in and the alum drive plate is barly scored .No problem as can either face it down or fine wet and dry on some glass .
Slight problem area is the actual slipper material is also scored and the reverse side is even worse .It also looks as if it has been running loose where the friction heat has turned areas a different colourso feel harder than others .
Was thinking along the lines of some cork style material as per a full size motorcycle clutch plates but any other suggestion would be once again appriciated
Cheers Jim
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 11:04 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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slipper material

Jim, I found this on page 117 (good discussion about subject on this page) after doing a search in this thread - see blue bar towards top of this thread. I used the search words "slipper material" and made it show the posts. I didnt go much further in search. I might see if my sc10 has slipper pad shaped like the vmx slipper material, but doubt it. Wont know until tonight.
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Originally Posted by RICH S View Post
I successfully used gasket material from the auto parts store, it's about .060 in thick, I used 2 pieces ca'd together and cut out the octagon shape, it worked pretty good until I got a new gear. The 1/8 scale buggies are nice, we have a big indoor local track with a ventalation system to run nitro in the winter and they are impressive, very big air
While Im at it, an extra tip passing on about better resolution with slipper adjustments is to add 2 more coned washers under the nut when getting slipper tight, so it would looke like )()( instead of )( - unless manual has it reversed order then its ()() instead of (). I forget. LOL.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 11:20 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
Jim, I found this on page 117 (good discussion about subject on this page) after doing a search in this thread - see blue bar towards top of this thread. I used the search words "slipper material" and made it show the posts. I didnt go much further in search. I might see if my sc10 has slipper pad shaped like the vmx slipper material, but doubt it. Wont know until tonight.


While Im at it, an extra tip passing on about better resolution with slipper adjustments is to add 2 more coned washers under the nut when getting slipper tight, so it would looke like )()( instead of )( - unless manual has it reversed order then its ()() instead of (). I forget. LOL.
()() is correct JM
Believe it or not The KTM MX bikes use this design (with great success I might add) on some models clutches for 2012 and beyond. The old late 60's Maico MX bikes used them up through the mid 80's before the went out of buisness!! ( royal pain in the arse the keep the cluthes from dragging or slipping--they usually did one or the other or both lol)
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Last edited by TopDave; Aug 15, 2012 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 01:36 PM
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JohnnyMac.
Thanks for the response and I could recall seeing it in the past but could not find it and yes should have done a search
Must say madbadger does appear to have got a Monday morning bike as I followed a few of his entries with the multitude of things breaking or going wrong .
It did remind me of something else has he had something covering making a small hole in the outher cover and squirting WD40 into the gyro.
I have always been of the understanding that the base compoment of WD40 is fish oil and apart from all the other things it can do it is mainly a water displacement spray and not really a long term lubricant .
Not wanting to take the stance 'I am an engineer to know everything' approach seen so often in forums but it does seem strange that in the case of the gyro gears there are steel on steel gears but nowhere in the manual or the update, covering the alignment of the gears, is there any mention of lubricating the gears or the pin they run on
I can see the situation of packing grease all over the place is to be avoided as it will eventually get into the clutch area .
Nylon in its many forms is a partial self lubricant and any comments regarding this would be appriciated .
Same would apply to the motor pinion/spur gear any excess friction must be something to avoid if possible without ending up attracting grit which will end up destroying the mesh.
Would be interested to hear other opinions as to lubricate or run dry
Cheers Jim
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