Yeah, that's an option. I was under the impression that this heli had some sort of cage to hold the battery, but it just holds the clip. Looks like the yellow clone has different skids. Maybe I can get those skids?

WL Toys elected to change the physical power cell format to this:
http://www.tmart.com/New-V91119-LiPo...r_p161583.html
and so this might be a good option for you:
http://www.tmart.com/New-V91108-Airc...r_p161584.html

Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962

Well one day after fitting my new skids (thanks mystman ) my daughter managed to bust my flybar. serves me right, should've waited til my new heli arrived

Tigg

Just plugged in the battery and tried to bind the heli with the TX for interest's sake. Now the red led keeps flashing after it should have bound. What might have caused that? Loose wire to the RX maybe, or could the RX have got damaged when it crashed? Had a look at the pcb, but I don't see anything loose there.

Greetz
Tigg

Was the throttle stick all the way down? Whenever mine doesn't finish binding I usually find I've bumped the throttle stick up a bit.

Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962

Just plugged in the battery and tried to bind the heli with the TX for interest's sake. Now the red led keeps flashing after it should have bound. What might have caused that? Loose wire to the RX maybe, or could the RX have got damaged when it crashed? Had a look at the pcb, but I don't see anything loose there.

Greetz
Tigg

Binding problems after a crash (even seemingly innocuous ones) often are due to damaged crystal. They can be replaced, with some soldering, if you have a good one on hand. Folks have ordered replacement crystals on ebay and had success (e.g., Daryoon posted that a while back). I had done a few replacements myself, with good crystals from bad rx's (bad gyro), hit or miss as far as initial polarity match, but I found that even if you guessed wrong, there's no damage from mismatch (just more work on your part).

Originally Posted by 2_Crash_Thumbs

WL Toys elected to change the physical power cell format to this:
http://www.tmart.com/New-V91119-LiPo...r_p161583.html
and so this might be a good option for you:
http://www.tmart.com/New-V91108-Airc...r_p161584.html

Does the skid have the electrical connector (doesn't look like it)?
Is there a source?

Originally Posted by stonecutter

Binding problems after a crash (even seemingly innocuous ones) often are due to damaged crystal. They can be replaced, with some soldering, if you have a good one on hand. Folks have ordered replacement crystals on ebay and had success (e.g., Daryoon posted that a while back). I had done a few replacements myself, with good crystals from bad rx's (bad gyro), hit or miss as far as initial polarity match, but I found that even if you guessed wrong, there's no damage from mismatch (just more work on your part).

Does anyone remember if the LED blinks (at normal binding rate) if the crystal is damaged?

Originally Posted by RicksterRC

Does the skid have the electrical connector (doesn't look like it)?
Is there a source?

Yes,

New Battery: http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Ne...d-p-53813.html

Old Battery : http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-V9...d-p-49029.html

Originally Posted by RicksterRC

Does anyone remember if the LED blinks (at normal binding rate) if the crystal is damaged?

Can't remember for the v911 (since I haven't had the issue for a long time, knock on wood). But from my experience with the Helios (crystal DOA), it does blink at normal rate at start and stays that way.

Originally Posted by Byrdwyngs

Was the throttle stick all the way down? Whenever mine doesn't finish binding I usually find I've bumped the throttle stick up a bit.

yup, first thing I checked Byrdwyngs (cos it was the only idea I had )

Originally Posted by stonecutter

Binding problems after a crash (even seemingly innocuous ones) often are due to damaged crystal. They can be replaced, with some soldering, if you have a good one on hand. Folks have ordered replacement crystals on ebay and had success (e.g., Daryoon posted that a while back). I had done a few replacements myself, with good crystals from bad rx's (bad gyro), hit or miss as far as initial polarity match, but I found that even if you guessed wrong, there's no damage from mismatch (just more work on your part).

thanks stonecutter, but this noob doesn't even know what (or where) the crystal is. Got a pic?... and maybe instructions on how to remove, source and resolder?

One more - rather remote, I think - possibility. My heli isn't a V911, it's a jamara e-rix 100 pro. Same heli, but I don't yet know if they're TX-compatible as I'm picking up my first V911 from customs tomorrow.

Anyway, I had bought a used DH 9116 TX to fly my V911s (more on order ) with. It had already been set up to use with the V911 and I decided to try and see if it would bind to the e-rix. This was the 1st time I'd tried to bind any TX to it since the crash, but trying this couldn't POSSIBLY have caused it to not recognise the stock TX any more... could it? Afraid I know slightly less than nothing about RC technology. I'm more mechanically minded, cos I can see things and don't have to think too hard...

Cheers
Tigg

Originally Posted by jameschen072

Q&A time again..

Solopro: Yup it looks very nice and it does fit on the SP without modifications. The rotor assembly and bearings are also compatible with the SP... tail (and therefore frame) does not... (tail is much thicker than the SP's).

Wallaguest1: I'm not sure what the difference is between EL backlight and 2 LEDs... though I can tell you that the screen is lit very well and you could easily see your settings =]
Throttle isn't spring loaded..all the other channels are.

Helicopcat: Yes, I found that to be very odd..but yup it shows mode 1 even though the TX is mode 2

Hope12839:
-The tx does have trim memory, but it doesn't have a dual-rate icon..so you'll have to judge from the servo movement to know if it's in high/low rates.
-Circuit board is pretty well made and I'd say it's even better than that of the SP. The one I had with the defect was happily replaced by the seller, the other two work fine.
-Batteries are unfortunately, as you know, incompatible with the other birds. It's connectors are similar to the SP but if you use the skids from one bird to another, there will be a shift in it's CG (the SP's battery goes into the canopy while the V911's battery is under the skids like that of the Bravo SX).


Hope that helps!

I just received my v911 today, the screen shows mode 1 and is not changing. How can i tell if it is in mode 1 or mode 2? i have pushed the button several times and have not noticed any changes.

Maybe i misunderstand about the mode button, i was under the impression that the mode switch is for beginner (mode1) and advanced (mode 2) and changes the curve or response of the heli.??

Originally Posted by Dark_Lord

I just received my v911 today, the screen shows mode 1 and is not changing. How can i tell if it is in mode 1 or mode 2? i have pushed the button several times and have not noticed any changes.

Not an expert but as far as I know if it shows mode 1 then it IS mode 2. Problems with translation from the original Chinese I think, and you can't change the mode on the TX unless you're very good with circuitry.

Bind the TX with the heli and push the right hand lever forward and side to side. if it moves the servo arms it's mode 2, cos your rudder is on the left stick and you can't see it doing anything unless the motor's running (I think )

Go to hacksmods.com. Search for crystal and you'll get some more info.

On boards with a damaged crystal, you usually get like two rapid blink and then the LED stays lit, solid. I remember it does this whether the radio is on or off.

Originally Posted by Dark_Lord

I just received my v911 today, the screen shows mode 1 and is not changing. How can i tell if it is in mode 1 or mode 2? i have pushed the button several times and have not noticed any changes.

Maybe i misunderstand about the mode button, i was under the impression that the mode switch is for beginner (mode1) and advanced (mode 2) and changes the curve or response of the heli.??

The button does change from beginner (slow rates) or advanced (full rates) but nothing on the screen will indicate such. You can however look at how many bars show up when doing full rudder, in slow mode it will only show half as many bars.

... or maybe you're thinking about dual rates and not mode after all. In that case, after binding push the right stick to the max in every direction. If your little display (middle bottom) shows 4 bars you're in "profi" modus (high rates). As far as I know the TX reverts back to low rates when you turn it off, so to get onto high rates you'd have to press the button and then check with the right stick before you give any throttle (safest way for a beginner, believe me, I know... )