Its sunny with 6-8 mph winds. I think i'll pack the wife, kids, and heli in the car and head to the park.......

Originally Posted by kdean

Its sunny with 6-8 mph winds. I think i'll pack the wife, kids, and heli in the car and head to the park.......

Hi kdean, same here with less wind. Been flying all morning in the back yard and been having a ball. Had 6 or 7 fights in the garage yesterday when it rained all day. This is one fine machine. Have fun!

SpadCat

Got mine on charge now but need the wind to die down a bit.

Is it ok to use generic household oil on the motor. I think it time to oil her up.

Originally Posted by shivanandrs

Have anyone tested the flight range of the V400D02? Yesterday i couldn't get further than 70-80ft away, i was about 40-45ft high before i lost control. My battery voltages were around 9.8 -10.1 during this time. I tried extending the antenna on the RX but it didn't help. Could the TX battery voltages be the cause of this?

Finally did a range check and I got 130 yards and it still worked. Could hardly see the V400 on the ground, but my son said the control surfaces moved properly without any sign of glitching. This was after a full flight and the on board battery was just winding down. The transmitter showed 9.3v.

Hope this helps,

SpadCat

Anyone able to make its motor BRUSHLESS without using brushed to Brushless converter?

And also which ESC beside it's stock ESC can be used with it's RX(RX2614V)?

Originally Posted by somchai6813

Anyone able to make its motor BRUSHLESS without using brushed to Brushless converter?

And also which ESC beside it's stock ESC can be used with it's RX(RX2614V)?

Have you seen RTF-Heli.com's brushless upgrade? I am also curious to know what it would take in regards to motor and ESC to do the upgrade.

SpadCat

Originally Posted by somchai6813

Anyone able to make its motor BRUSHLESS without using brushed to Brushless converter?

And also which ESC beside it's stock ESC can be used with it's RX(RX2614V)?

The motor ports on the 2614V are not outputting normal ESC/servo signal. They are full cycle PWM outputs. The stock so called "ESC" is more or less a power stage for the brushed motor outputs from the RX. Hence we always need signal converters for both to go brushless or tail servo.

I made the signal converter myself using ATtiny2313. Then we can use a regular brushless ESC and brushless motor on the main.

On that tail side, as the 2416V uses a 0.5ms cycle, to convert it to a regular ESC/servo signal the cycle time is 20ms. Hence we are lossing quite a bit of responsiveness across the conversion. Not sure if it would be a problem.

We also use a proprietary cycle at the tail, like the 3.3ms cycle time in the 2433, but we would need special servo to handle the much shorten cycle.

That won't be too much work on the ATtiny2313, we just have to use 2 seperate counters.

The 2416V also requires a power check input of around 2V. If you don't use the stock "ESC", don't forget to do that, otherwise it would keep the motor outputs off.

Have fun.

Originally Posted by Wasp09

The motor ports on the 2614V are not outputting normal ESC/servo signal. They are full cycle PWM outputs. The stock so called "ESC" is more or less a power stage for the brushed motor outputs from the RX. Hence we always need signal converters for both to go brushless or tail servo.

I made the signal converter myself using ATtiny2313. Then we can use a regular brushless ESC and brushless motor on the main.

On that tail side, as the 2416V uses a 0.5ms cycle, to convert it to a regular ESC/servo signal the cycle time is 20ms. Hence we are lossing quite a bit of responsiveness across the conversion. Not sure if it would be a problem.

We also use a proprietary cycle at the tail, like the 3.3ms cycle time in the 2433, but we would need special servo to handle the much shorten cycle.

That won't be too much work on the ATtiny2313, we just have to use 2 seperate counters.

The 2416V also requires a power check input of around 2V. If you don't use the stock "ESC", don't forget to do that, otherwise it would keep the motor outputs off.

Have fun.

Can you say that in english now????

Well boys and girls, I did it. After loading up the family in the car, and a few hours of bowling, we got to the park and I was ready to test my new heli skills. With only 4 or 5 indoor hovers, and hours on FMS, I decided its time to take it to the next level.

The winds were still around 6 - 8 mph with very spars and light gusts. To start I hovered for a bit around 2-3 feet just to be safe. I had no idea how she would act in the wind. Other owners say it handels the wind with no problem, and they are right. The flight was smooth and quiet. At first I thought my battery was not fully charged because it was so quiet and so tame. Then realized I dont have the four walls componding the noise and bouncing the air pockets around.

The sun was down and the park is well lit, but at times, as I took her higher I found it hard see the angle of the heli. Thats when things would get interesting. About half way through the battery pack I got a little high, lost sight of my angle, and got into some fast forward flight. Once on an angle, this heli really gets moving. (Not like the sim that tends to 'hang'). All of my training came into play as I was about 30 feet up and doing bank turns and figure eights.... Not what I wanted to be doing cause my tail fin is cracked where it is attached to the boom, and I did not want to put any stress on it and have it break off mid flight. My wife was very impressed with my flying, little did she know I was crapping in my pants trying to regain control.

At this point I needed a break, so it was time to practice LANDING......

I have not been that nervous since my 6th grade graduation dance, where I asked the girl who I had a crush on all year to dance the last slow dance with me. My hands were shaking, my plams were sweating, I had to take a break

After getting my nerves back, I finnished the battery in a low hover with some forward moving side to side passes.

This is a great heli for all skill levels and its a pleasure to fly. I know its very delicate and things do break on them. But with some TLC, and the right replacement parts in the right places, this heli will not disapoint.

My project this week is to adjust the pitch and throttle curve to make it a little more aggersive. And find a fix for the weak tail fins. (I'm thinking of using metal hose clamps somehow)

I'm already planning what my next two heli purchases are going to be. I've been looking at the 250 from E-Razor, or the 450 EXI kit (using the elecs from one of my V400's, and most definitly the walkera M120D01 w/2801 pro.

I have alot to dream about....... and its past my bed time

Originally Posted by kdean

Can you say that in english now????

You always need a signal converter......................................... ....

Originally Posted by Wasp09

The motor ports on the 2614V are not outputting normal ESC/servo signal. They are full cycle PWM outputs. The stock so called "ESC" is more or less a power stage for the brushed motor outputs from the RX. Hence we always need signal converters for both to go brushless or tail servo.

I made the signal converter myself using ATtiny2313. Then we can use a regular brushless ESC and brushless motor on the main.

On that tail side, as the 2416V uses a 0.5ms cycle, to convert it to a regular ESC/servo signal the cycle time is 20ms. Hence we are lossing quite a bit of responsiveness across the conversion. Not sure if it would be a problem.

We also use a proprietary cycle at the tail, like the 3.3ms cycle time in the 2433, but we would need special servo to handle the much shorten cycle.

That won't be too much work on the ATtiny2313, we just have to use 2 seperate counters.

The 2416V also requires a power check input of around 2V. If you don't use the stock "ESC", don't forget to do that, otherwise it would keep the motor outputs off.

Have fun.

Could you please show us how did you make the ATtiny2313?

Originally Posted by somchai6813

Could you please show us how did you make the ATtiny2313?

I would upload the code when I got home tonight. That would be outputting standard 20ms cycle.

You need an AVR programmer, the AVR chip plus one or two pairs of servo connectors (1 pair for the main ESC and another for the tail ESC/servo if you want to do both.)

RX2614V ----- signal converter ---- brushless main ESC and optional tail servo or brushless ESC

And you would need another connector to wire 2V to the battery check input of the RX, assuming you drop the stock ESC completely. You may derive the 2V from battery to use it as a brownout check. If you derive it from the BEC, you won't have the brownout check function.

Just came in from another quick night flight. The winds are gusting around 12mph, but after my flight last night I'm feeling confident. The wind did push me around at times, so I kept it pretty safe as far as keeping it low and not to far away. Still going through some trust issues......

I did notice a high pitch 'squeeking' sound, and I think its the motor bearings crying for oil.

What is the best type of oil to use on the motor?

Does it matter?

I know it only needs like half a drop on each side, but dont want to use the wrong kind of oil and mess it up....

Help

Had quite a bit of wet snow today. It overloaded my snowblower and me. Now let me upload the signal converter.

To make a signal converter burn the hex file onto an ATtiny2313.

Connect the main motor output from RX to INT1 (pin 7), tail motor output from RX to INT0 (pin 6).
Connect your main BL ESC to OCR1B (pin 16), and tail BL ESC or servo t OCR1A (pin 15).
Don't forget to give it power, i.e. GND at pin 10 and +5V at pin 20. You would have to feed the RX via one of the centre pins too.

This is for standard ESC and servo of 20ms cycle time.

Please test it thoroughly before use. Please note that you use it on your own risk.

Please do not connect the ATtiny to the motor side of the stock "ESC" as you would get a full 3S voltage there and set it on fire.

This is definitely not English. If you don't understand what you are doing, you should buy a signal converter from your local hobby shop instead of making one on your own.