I was told on the motor design and construction forum that the rule of thumb is for ever g of weight 3g of thrust (power) it would have a lot!!

if you read this recently somewhere here it might have been me saying this LOL
(don't pin me down on the 3g, it could be more like 5g, I should double check, the comment was only meant to indicate that there is - as a rule of thumb - a trend)

however, this was the point I tried to make, that something is "inconsistent" here... the relevant weight is of course that of the stator and rotor, since these are the crucial parts of the motor and usually these parts make up most of the weight for the obvious reason that the motor manufactures try to build the motors this way since it's then a good design...

so, a rotor of 18x8 exactly as that of a trunigy or C10 but 3.5 times the weight that's strange...
it hardly can be due to more copper wire, the available volume is limited by the size of the stator & rotor, and since these are apparently quite similar for the Aeronuts and the turnigy/C10 there is not much room here for such a huge increase in copper filling

in short, IMHO, either the given weigth is grossly wrong or the give stator size is grossly wrong

if it's the latter (which from the motor name I guess it is), then the motor would rather be similar to the turnigy1811 and C10
so, if you're looking for an alternative to the C10 and turnigy1811 this could be an option, if you're looking for a more powerfull option I would be very suspicious
(maybe you could contact aeronuts and ask for more details?)

in contrast, if you look at the swanghobby motor, it is obvious that they are physically of larger size, i.e. the length of the stator is larger than for the turnigy1811/C10, and so is their weight... so, for them it makes IMHO perfectly sense that they indeed provide more power

was I right rpm=kv x v ?

yes

I'm going with the swanghobby motor type just looking around. Got down time waiting on the new motor. I got a GA250 coming too the board was damage bad so i will be starting over on the gyro mixer i had it too I dont thank I was cleaning enough between solders got a build up I need to slow down do it right. right

Originally Posted by Chap1012

@sonnier00 OlliW is correct. I was talking about the brushed Aero~Nuts motors. I had forgotten they make BL motors too. Sorry for any confusion

@Jack Don't you have a MQX quad as well?

Mike.

Yes, I have an MQX, but it's a little big for my flying area just like my 180 size coax's are a little too big to do anything with. I got the ladybird for $58. I couldn't pass it up for that price.

IMHO, the 1811's are just right. My heli has BIG 400 size skids on it and the heavier MicroHeli frame and the weight is not an issue with the larger ESC's and 3 cell battery. I can use the 55 Degree blades with less lift and it handles it nicely. The physical limitations of the frame may preclude going too much bigger in the motors' diameter. The three prong mount is also a limitation, thus, the use of the C-10 mounts. It's just a PITA to have to buy C-10 motors just for the bases. I guess at this point, I have no idea how previous attempts at this conversion were done with C-10 motors on 2 cells. Mine would barely lift and the motors and ESC's were HOT in no time. This was even with all of the stock parts put back on (stock frame, stock landing skids, etc.).

Yeah, those C10 motors were pure crap. Aluminum windings in most of them and poor quality magnets and bearings. I find it almost as easy now to just drill the tapered holes in the frame and mount the 1800s in myself. I just slot one side so I can move the motor in or away from the main gear for correct pinion gap and tighten them down. Easy. It takes 15min with a drill and a few more with the tapered dremel bit so I can recess the round bolt head to clear the underside of the gears and it is done.

There isn't much room between the motors for much larger cans! So be careful here if you are planning on something larger. As KJ stated the 1800 motors are plenty on 3s, in my case I doubled the weight of the heli and they still rock for anywere from 12 to 14min. So if I take four 1000ma 3s nanos with me, I am in the air almost a full hour. That is enough for me!

Sub'd

any of you used carbon fiber main shafts made from
4mm od x 2.5mm id x 127mm L stock? on cx heli

Originally Posted by sonnier00

any of you used carbon fiber main shafts made from
4mm od x 2.5mm id x 127mm L stock? on cx heli

All the attempts I know of ended really quick in cracked shafts ....

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

All the attempts I know of ended really quick in cracked shafts ....

darn

Originally Posted by sonnier00

darn

doesnt mean you shouldnt try ... maybe you are pioneering the first "working" version ...

I have done this. Sent out a few for peer review. Didn't work.

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

doesnt mean you shouldnt try ... maybe you are pioneering the first "working" version ...

I had put a quote to a needle company for 4mm x 3mm x 127mm blank shaft they wont $4.00 for 316ss not bad but you got buy 100 $4.00 tubes.
the carbon fiber is about $2 each shaft min 6, so I might try it

Originally Posted by sonnier00

I had put a quote to a needle company for 4mm x 3mm x 127mm blank shaft they wont $4.00 for 316ss not bad but you got buy 100 $4.00 tubes.
the carbon fiber is about $2 each shaft min 6, so I might try it

if you get those 316ss shafts (even if you buy 100 for 4 a pop, so 400$ total .), you still only got 0.5mm wall thickness ... and probably this shaft is ridiculously heavy and still bends (what do I know, I really dont know squad about steel qualities ...)
... what I do know though is that I have my outer shafts for this purpose and they are good - dont need any others (or better wouldnt, if I'd still be flying my coaxes ... which only rot along on shelves or in boxes ...) - ask LUV, he can attest to the quality of those shafts (the catch is, you will need a rotorhead that can hold on a shaft without guideholes ... which I have ...)

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

if you get those 316ss shafts (even if you buy 100 for 4 a pop, so 400$ total .), you still only got 0.5mm wall thickness ... and probably this shaft is ridiculously heavy and still bends (what do I know, I really dont know squad about steel qualities ...)
... what I do know though is that I have my outer shafts for this purpose and they are good - dont need any others (or better wouldnt, if I'd still be flying my coaxes ... which only rot along on shelves or in boxes ...) - ask LUV, he can attest to the quality of those shafts (the catch is, you will need a rotorhead that can hold on a shaft without guideholes ... which I have ...)

I got a way to put guide-holes in and make flats

Originally Posted by sonnier00

I got a way to put guide-holes in and make flats

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=23