I just got a new metal building (the smaller one had to go) and got two kitchen units, MDF and several 2x4s from Home Depot to make a building surface (16'x2'). In the other building I had a hollow door with ceiling tiles on top to hold the pins. Any suggestions for the new surface. I thought of blue foam but CA would probably melt it. Even with the plans covered in plastic, pin holes will probably allow seepage.
I've included some pictures but I'm still in the process of finding places for everything.

Looks great, but
... what a waste of foam

Thanks.
Probably so, but I wouldn't know what to do with it if I did think about using it for a model. This stuff isn't very hardy, just knocking it causes it to crumble. I had some in the old bldg and used it to pin any instructions to. Two or three pieces of paper would pull the pin down and out.

I'm tempted to go the gyprock direction.

I'll let you know how it goes

I've always liked celotex as a building surface. It holds pins nicely and is cheap to replace. Home Depot generally carries it in 4'x8' sheets.

Guys.
Office Max and stores like that are selling 4 packs of 12" x 12" x 1/8" cork tiles for about $9.00 per pack. Get some spray on adhesive, coat both the tile and the board and go to town.
Need I say more?
SkipinHouston

I'd stick with celotex ceiling tiles, usually I have always been able to find a few that weren't perfect,( nicks, side that faces down from the ceiling stained, not quite perfect, etc) and use the smoother backside usually anyway.
Places like Home Depot and Menards or Lowes or lumber yards will sell them at a decent discount.
I have three workbenches, and have it on all three.
2 foot by 4 foot tiles, 2 on each table for 2 by 8 foot building space.
They get old, toss them, put some newer ones down
I've been using them for 20 years with no problems.

Nice looking shop kwmtrubrit!!!!
Good buy on the countertops, etc.
Hey they do the job you need them for!
Styrofoam will make good insulation

Ed

Originally Posted by kwmtrubrit

I just got a new metal building (the smaller one had to go) and got two kitchen units, MDF and several 2x4s from Home Depot to make a building surface (16'x2'). In the other building I had a hollow door with ceiling tiles on top to hold the pins. Any suggestions for the new surface. I thought of blue foam but CA would probably melt it. Even with the plans covered in plastic, pin holes will probably allow seepage.
I've included some pictures but I'm still in the process of finding places for everything.

Just another thought from my other post.
Some white pine building board would work too.
You can push pins in, but have to put them in firmly.
My first building board when I was a kid was a white pine building board.
Used it for years!
Later made another two piece white pine building board, hinged in the middle for dihedral wings, with adjustable
posts on both ends for adjusting dihedral. I still have it!
Every so often I would take an electric hand sander to it and clean it off good, and re-smooth it clearing away small globs of glue, etc.

Ed

Chunk of cieling tile - comes in 2'x4' pieces, holds pins well and lasts forever. Hold it down on your building surface with plenty of carpet tape. $5.00 should keep it working for quite a while.

In the UK I use 'sundela' or is it 'sundeala' Wonderful stuff,comes in8x4 sheets approx 1/2 -5/8 thick, dense grey finish which pins easily and the holes close after. I've just started on my 2nd hallf sheet 2x8 taped over a hollow door - free as one side was damaged! - Now 10 years down the line!
Daveosoar.

davesoar - i am thinking of trying a Sundeala board for my next project
What size should i get if I need to build upto a 3m sailplane kit?

Hey guys, thanks for all the great suggestions. I will let you know how the units hold up. May the RC Gods be with you!

Keith

Try cork tiles (see below). Takes blade cuts, pins really well and wears well.
Just a tad pricey.

Chris.

Arukum 17,
I can only buy it in 8x4 panels. Cut in half lengthwise (2' wide). the total length depends on your base. As I said I use a standard hollow wardrobe door which is 2' wide. Now I have FOUR surfaces to work on.
David.

I have mostly gone away from pinable table tops. My table tops are made of solid core door blanks (they are still pretty darn pinable if you want). I space 1/4-20 threaded inserts on 6 inch centers and use those points as anchor points for various kinds of clamps. (see photos) As always, a straight building surface helps build straight structures. Clamping takes this one step farther. If you are building your own designs, it is also useful to have your parts laser cut with building tabs which can be lightly glued to a work surface while you get everything straight. You can either use a separate board for this kind of stuff or simply sand the remnants of the tabs off the work surface when you are done. This combination is quick and goes a long way toward ensuring straight surfaces.