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Old Aug 09, 2012, 09:20 AM
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bdelapen's Avatar
United States, FL, Pembroke Pines
Joined Aug 2008
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I have a LiPo battery in mine and I also have stand on the handle. As you can see from the picture, in my case there is no need for any additional balancing, it balances just fine on the built in attachment point. Now if you like the transmitter hanging with the antenna pointing down then this could be useful.

My stuff:
Battery - http://www.rcaccessory.com/pe2600tx-2S.aspx
Stand - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19580

Regards,

- Birger
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 11:03 AM
Play tetris with my english
DaxFX's Avatar
Puerto Rico, San Juan
Joined May 2008
2,696 Posts
Mine balance just perfect. No need of a balancer. The 8fg is build with balance in mind.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Ohio AV8TOR's Avatar
United States, TX, Benbrook
Joined Oct 2005
5,341 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaxFX View Post
Mine balance just perfect. No need of a balancer. The 8fg is build with balance in mind.
Static balance is not always a good test. My 8FG yes does balance level from the neckstrap but seems to slide down and tilts from contact with my belly. Changing the pivot location is one way to change the leverage of the tilt.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 12:35 PM
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vespa's Avatar
Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Mar 2004
2,661 Posts
I agree, mine hangs perfectly level thanks to a lipo but as soon as I start walking it flips right up and the sticks and switches go right into my stomach.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 02:23 PM
Play tetris with my english
DaxFX's Avatar
Puerto Rico, San Juan
Joined May 2008
2,696 Posts
Yea. Good point on the belly. But as i never walk around with my tx hanging. So no need for me. Ok is mre like a personal preference for tilt the balance forward or backward so in that case is a good choice to have a balancer.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 03:10 PM
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bdelapen's Avatar
United States, FL, Pembroke Pines
Joined Aug 2008
2,617 Posts
DSM2 module for Futaba 8FG

Hi All,

Well, it turns out that Horizon finally did get the DM8 module back in stock and it is now readily available again:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...le-SPMMSFUT720

This means that we can now again start making 8FG compatible modules again. Sooo here is my question to everyone... Would anyone be interested in a simple plug-and-play add-on component to the DM8 that would incorporate the necessary circuit to create your own DSM2 module for your 8FG, no soldering necessary?

All you would have to do is source your own DM8 http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...le-SPMMSFUT720 , source your own DM9 case: http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...module-SPM6817 . Drill 3 holes, cut a bit of plastic, do some quick assembly, add some velcro and you would be up in the air.

The module I could provide would look something like the attached picture.

If there is enough interest I can look into what it would take to source all the materials and put a price on it.

Let me know.

Regards,

- Birger
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 03:46 PM
On loan to Texas
Ohio AV8TOR's Avatar
United States, TX, Benbrook
Joined Oct 2005
5,341 Posts
I actually think I aam going to go back to a tray that I made several year back that is a two point hang right in the rear of the transmitter and nothing from the tray extends beyond the transmitter. With the two point hang there is no obstruction to the screen.

The only reason I was thinking of switching was that I am considering getting a lipo for it and to remove the battery I would need to remove the tray. I get 6-hours with the factory battery so no huge reason to change right now.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 02:45 AM
Registered User
Sweden
Joined Sep 2007
266 Posts
I have a question about servo setup. I'm trying to set up my new aerobatic Extra 330 as perfectly as I possibly can. I have a bit of a problem that I haven't really noticed on other planes before, but that is probably because I've never been this thorough with any other plane up until now.

My Hyperion Atlas servos don't come with fancy offset arms. To get my servo arms centered I must use subtrim, sometimes up to about 150. This shouldn't be a problem right?

So I set everything up nice and straight mechanically to get me close to the throws I want. I then fine tune these throws in the 8FG by using end points to give me equal amounts of up and down in both ailerons. Everything is measured and is correct.

Now I start adding dual rates and this is where things get funny. When I decrese the rates of the ailerons the aileron throws no longer match. What was perfectly equal in both directions and on both ailerons on 100% throws is off by 2-3 mm's on 50% throws. I have corrected somewhat for this by putting like 54% up and 50% down, but it's not perfect.

So. Is this caused by the radio?
Are the servos not working the same even though they are the same brand and model?
Is this a geometrical issue? As far as I can see with my eyes both aileron servos are equally centered (by using different amounts of sub trim).

I don't know if I'm too picky or how important a couple mm difference really are. I've been flying it like this and it is a great flyer but this problem keeps nagging me and I'd like to get it straightened out.

I just realized that I should check the servo screen if both aileron channels move the same amount of steps. I'll do that this weekend probably. But if anyone have any ideas I'd be glad to hear them.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 03:03 AM
Play tetris with my english
DaxFX's Avatar
Puerto Rico, San Juan
Joined May 2008
2,696 Posts
Diferent sub trim should
Not be a problem in small amount. But 150 subtrim i think is way to much.

if a servo arm dont centered well , try to point the arm to the other side of the servo almost always you get a better centered to one side than the other. If this is your case so try to invert the servo and use the other side. Or swap both servo wich each other to get the same position but using the other side. This shuld help.

Remember a subtrim does not change the neutral position of a servo. Just hold the amount of a stick inpout. Si if you still (after swaping servo side) need a lot of subtrim and diferent amount on each servo you will also need diferent endponts to get same travel.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Buschbarber's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined Apr 2004
1,164 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddan View Post
I have a question about servo setup. I'm trying to set up my new aerobatic Extra 330 as perfectly as I possibly can. I have a bit of a problem that I haven't really noticed on other planes before, but that is probably because I've never been this thorough with any other plane up until now.

My Hyperion Atlas servos don't come with fancy offset arms. To get my servo arms centered I must use subtrim, sometimes up to about 150. This shouldn't be a problem right?

So I set everything up nice and straight mechanically to get me close to the throws I want. I then fine tune these throws in the 8FG by using end points to give me equal amounts of up and down in both ailerons. Everything is measured and is correct.

Now I start adding dual rates and this is where things get funny. When I decrese the rates of the ailerons the aileron throws no longer match. What was perfectly equal in both directions and on both ailerons on 100% throws is off by 2-3 mm's on 50% throws. I have corrected somewhat for this by putting like 54% up and 50% down, but it's not perfect.

So. Is this caused by the radio?
Are the servos not working the same even though they are the same brand and model?
Is this a geometrical issue? As far as I can see with my eyes both aileron servos are equally centered (by using different amounts of sub trim).

I don't know if I'm too picky or how important a couple mm difference really are. I've been flying it like this and it is a great flyer but this problem keeps nagging me and I'd like to get it straightened out.

I just realized that I should check the servo screen if both aileron channels move the same amount of steps. I'll do that this weekend probably. But if anyone have any ideas I'd be glad to hear them.
The more Subtrim you use, the less Total Travel you have available to you. Subtrim is generally for small corrections to get the Servo Arm to 90 deg at Neutral. You should not have to use more than 20% or you need to reposition the Servo Arm on the Servo Output Shaft Spline.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 09:28 AM
Skaluf's Avatar
Sadorus, IL
Joined Mar 2004
597 Posts
As other have pointed out 150 on the subtrim is a lot when trying to match servos on the same surface. You need to get your setup MUCH closer mechanically prior to doing the electronic matching. Be certain your horns, linkages etc are all the same. Move the servo arm/wheel until you get it much closer than you have right now. If you can't get it better than that, you might need to consider an after-market servo arm.

Steve

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddan View Post
I have a question about servo setup. I'm trying to set up my new aerobatic Extra 330 as perfectly as I possibly can. I have a bit of a problem that I haven't really noticed on other planes before, but that is probably because I've never been this thorough with any other plane up until now.

My Hyperion Atlas servos don't come with fancy offset arms. To get my servo arms centered I must use subtrim, sometimes up to about 150. This shouldn't be a problem right?

So I set everything up nice and straight mechanically to get me close to the throws I want. I then fine tune these throws in the 8FG by using end points to give me equal amounts of up and down in both ailerons. Everything is measured and is correct.

Now I start adding dual rates and this is where things get funny. When I decrese the rates of the ailerons the aileron throws no longer match. What was perfectly equal in both directions and on both ailerons on 100% throws is off by 2-3 mm's on 50% throws. I have corrected somewhat for this by putting like 54% up and 50% down, but it's not perfect.

So. Is this caused by the radio?
Are the servos not working the same even though they are the same brand and model?
Is this a geometrical issue? As far as I can see with my eyes both aileron servos are equally centered (by using different amounts of sub trim).

I don't know if I'm too picky or how important a couple mm difference really are. I've been flying it like this and it is a great flyer but this problem keeps nagging me and I'd like to get it straightened out.

I just realized that I should check the servo screen if both aileron channels move the same amount of steps. I'll do that this weekend probably. But if anyone have any ideas I'd be glad to hear them.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 01:57 PM
War is over (if you want it)
vespa's Avatar
Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Mar 2004
2,661 Posts
Freddy, I have seen this issue with subtrim as well. It's fixable but I can't remember how or why.
But you needn't worry about it for many reasons:

* What is a "fancy offset arm"?
* Hyperions, like most servos, use an odd number of spline teeth so you can just turn the arm around 180 to get a different angle. And if you start with a cross arm, there are 4 possible positions to choose from.
* Hyperions have a great programability feature that, among many other things, completely eliminates any need for subtrim. Buy the $18 dongle and try it out. You'll like it!
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 05:17 PM
Registered User
Sweden
Joined Sep 2007
266 Posts
Thanks alot for your answers - all of you, great help! I'll go right back to the beginning and try to do this right with as little sub trim as possible. I've had my hands full all weekend with projects around the house but I'll look into this as soon as I can.

vespa;
What I meant by a fancy offset arm is kind of what you mentioned. I've been into the hobby five years but I'm still learning new things all the time. I hadn't actually realized that most servos have an odd number off teeth so you can get another angle.
What I was thinking of was something in the back off my mind that I've seen. Those one-arm servo arms are of course not possible to turn around (if you don't flip the servo 180 degrees instead which requires a long enough pushrod), but I believe that some servos come with several identical (well almost) servo arms that are numbered like 1 through 4 and have their the splines offset slightly compared to the arm itself so that one of those numbers should line you up perfectly.

I'll try to turn the arms around and maybe even switch servos between wings. That probably should fix it. If not, I might look into getting that servo programmer.

Thanks again guys!
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 06:44 PM
Registered User
DeBary, FL
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddan View Post
but I believe that some servos come with several identical (well almost) servo arms that are numbered like 1 through 4 and have their the splines offset slightly compared to the arm itself so that one of those numbers should line you up perfectly.
Is this a 'built' plane, or did you buy/install the servos yourself? If the former then the builder simply didn't bother to give you all the spare parts.

If the latter then did they come from some sort of 'discount' source? Reason I ask is that at http://www.allerc.com/hyperion-parts...sort=3a&page=1 there's not even one servo that -doesn't- appear to come with a full set of arms. Another source might trim a few nickles off the price, but hold back the full set of arms to sell elsewhere.

*UN*fortunately that particular source allerc doesn't appear to have an 'accessory' set of arms. Whoops found it, yes they do. The site search didn't return it but googling "hyperion" "servo" "horn set" did (with the quotes,) example: http://www.allerc.com/hyperion-atlas...et-p-3350.html

The point is that the parts should be available.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 01:34 AM
Registered User
Sweden
Joined Sep 2007
266 Posts
I built the plane myself.
Yes my Hyperion servos came with all those horns so that's not the issue. The issue is just me not using them all to find the best match...

However some of them have shorter arms than others so all of them might not fit the application, but I'll go back and try everything I can to get me centered without the need of excessive subtrim.
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