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Old Jun 01, 2016, 09:15 PM
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Recommendations for a couple materials

Looking for recommendations for a finishing coat on a fiberglass hull and a source for 6mm id metal bands for my mast head. For the finishing coat on the hull I have some krylon acrylic coating, never used it on a boat before though. Metal band I'm at a complete loss however.
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Old Jun 01, 2016, 09:25 PM
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I actually just remembered that I have carbon arrow shaft I can sleeve the top of the mast with so now just wondering about the final coat for the hull and wether I should put a layer our two more of epoxy or a couple coats of gloss and wet sand it.
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Old Jun 01, 2016, 09:38 PM
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I wouldn't add too much epoxy. Extra weight and no added strength if not adding glass. If looking for the "Proverbial Piano Finish" look to a few coats of a good quality marine varnish. Thin first few and apply by hand with wipe process. Last couple can be unthinned, use good Badger hair brush and let it flow.

If final is going to be paint then 2 coats epoxy should be more than enough since you are covering over transparency of epoxy.
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Old Jun 01, 2016, 11:09 PM
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Piano finish not so much, just want a smooth surface and water tight. I reckon two layers of glass should be pretty water tight so really just something to finish it off. Below the chine is going to remain unpainted color wise, above will get painted most likely a bright blue or gray. Don't think I've ever worked with varnish either, is that what you use on your boats dick or do you go the paint route?
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Old Jun 02, 2016, 08:36 AM
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Use Gel coat. Gives. Decent finish and it's what is meant for finish on fibre glass. We used to do it like that on boats the the marina gotta be careful in runs easily after applying wet sand then buff it make also make the hull rough before applying. .
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Old Jun 02, 2016, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PunkDolphin
Don't think I've ever worked with varnish either, is that what you use on your boats dick or do you go the paint route?
Paint when I messed up with a build, and had to use too much filler. (ie...my current RG65 that had are rare contamination with the epoxy over strips). The first two JIF65 family builds were painted, but on request of son and grandson. The 3rd. was clear finish (search "Dirty Deeds RG65) and my 4th was an exotic veneer panels. Varnish no problem, but can collect dust while drying.
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Old Jun 02, 2016, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PunkDolphin View Post
I actually just remembered that I have carbon arrow shaft I can sleeve the top of the mast with so now just wondering about the final coat for the hull and wether I should put a layer our two more of epoxy or a couple coats of gloss and wet sand it.
Carbon tube may not be much good.
Many are made with the carbon strands running lengthways with little or no reinforcement running round the tube.
If yours is like this it will add nothing but weight.
To check it just cut a short length off and see if you can split it lengthways easily.
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Old Jun 02, 2016, 11:51 AM
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Differences in Carbon Tubes

Here is a page from the ACP web site describing the different type of carbon tubes.

Pultrusion tubes split easily like described above, and they do not have a "Weave " pattern to them. Most hobby shop tubes are pultruded.


http://www.acpsales.com/OnlineStore.php?cat=5317
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Old Jun 02, 2016, 12:59 PM
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Yeah my masts are pultruded and when I was testing the crane on one it split, in fairness it was under more load than would have been applied on the boat but still not happy with that. The arrow shafts look like they will do the trick though, they are tough as nails. That have withstood hits to sheet metal from a 65# bow when my aim wasn't on point with out splitting so I'm assuming they have an "alternating weave". I made the b rig last night and sleeved the top of the mast with a piece of shaft and stress tested it since if it split I could always cut it down to make the c rig, seems to be holding up good so I'm pleased and would recommend it to others to save the weight of the metal band at the top of the mast.
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Old Jun 02, 2016, 01:24 PM
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You can always wrap the exterior ends with black fishing line and cover with CA glue or a thin coat of epoxy to reduce splitting possibility.
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Old Jun 02, 2016, 10:27 PM
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I had thought of wrapping it with spectra but reckoned that I would have to get a really tight wrap to really prevent any possibility of splitting and the carbon tube is reasonably thin walled (8mm OD and 6mm ID so it seemed like the best option but for someone without a quality arrow shaft hanging around that would fit a low stretch line wrapped tight would be a great alternative. I might even do that on the A rig mast head crane, just half hitches the whole way up that way I can get each wrap tight and locked in position, might even be better than sleeving it with the arrow shaft.

So I also was pocking around Krylons site and saw they have an aerosol Polyurethane Clear coat and Varnish clear coats, do you have any experience with those Dick? Both seem like they would be good options for a finish coat.
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Old Jun 03, 2016, 04:51 AM
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8 made my mast from 3/16x3/16 pieces random lengths glued up with tight bond waterproof wood glue.making the butt joints over lap by a minimum of three inches and gave the joint a 1/16 space. I made it square I'm going to make the next one rectangle my boat is 6 feet long and 36 lbs. You would not think it would be strong enough it is. It has flex but after rigging it's perfect has enough bow and can be adjusted infinitly as tuning is concerned.the next will be rectangle. However, this will just be an experiment. The wood is is strong but flexible. Here are some pics hope it helps. Bill
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Old Jun 03, 2016, 06:48 AM
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Sorry.......no experience with Krylon products except for clear coating over water-slide decals.

Dick
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Old Jun 03, 2016, 11:24 AM
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I like dick L's Response. I bet a decent slow cure epoxy would be best for strength.
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Old Jun 03, 2016, 12:24 PM
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I used the Rustoleum 2x on my repainted boat (said it was good for plastics).

I had to remove two layers of old paint (brake fluid works without damaging the plastic).

First with the grey primer, wet sanding up to 800 grit between coats to get a nice base. The can says 30 minutes before sanding, so it went quickly.

Then a bunch of light color coats with light sanding between them. Finally a rubbing compound to even it all out.

The rattle cans had a very nice nozzle. good even light coats without spatters.

I went with the theory that a fine texture(not a gloss finish) gave better speed on the water. I was also warned about using products that contained silicone (most auto waxes) if I ever wanted to repaint. It is tough to get all the silicone off I was told.

BP
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