|Dec 11, 2012, 04:34 AM|
OK, I think it's time I 'spilled the beans' on exactly how I get this thing in the air without breaking it (at least how I do it ).
Line the Auto-g directly in to the wind (if any!).
Give the rotors a spin by hand if there isn't enough wind to do it for you.
With 100% ATV's on Aileron control give it Full right aileron and keeping it there, bring the throttle up so she starts moving forward.
Use a little (a lot to begin with) right rudder to keep tracking directly in to wind.
Most important - do NOT touch the elevator.
Slowly increase the throttle and as soon as she starts to lift, decrease the aileron - but only enough to stop a right hand turn.
As soon as you reach 'flying speed' you'll find that the aileron and rudder can be released completely and she should fly straight up and away - turn left or right according to the circuit you wish to complete.
Since using this method I haven't broken any 'Y' pieces and haven't had one single unsuccessful ROG. I haven't yet tried the hand launch as I don't like relying on other people to get my toys airborne and it's proved so easy from the floor it's totally not required.
Just to clarify - I did break the first 'stock' Y blade holder piece almost straight away (thankfully got a couple of flights in first) and the second plastic part didn't last long either! The ply alternatives have served well since but I haven't had a 'blade strike' to prove whether or not they're a good thing (rather have the weak link away from the blades?).
The biggest problem is getting the blades up to speed before lift off - that's what I've read from the posts here anyway - especially if you're (like me!) new to Auto-Gyro models.
Best of luck with your ROG :P
|Dec 11, 2012, 05:06 AM|
Here’s my way of achieving a hassle-free take-off with the Auto-G, similar to DD's method but with a few subtle differences:-
Firstly, if you are new to autogyros, it's a good idea to get a feel for how fast the rotor needs to turn to generate enough lift - suggest holding the Auto-G into wind and tilting it backwards about 45 degrees or so. You will see, hear and feel how fast it will turn, with a nice swishing noise. You can also play with the rotor tilt control and feel how it will react, and if it wants to turn left or right with the autogyro held in your hand. Re-trim if it feels like it wants to go one way or the other.
Now that you know what the rotor revs look like, line the autogyro up into wind – this will help to spin the rotor up.
Spin the rotor up by hand, I do it by sticking a finger in close to the rotor hub.
Apply about a third of the throttle so that the autogyro moves forwards SLOWLY, about walking pace.
Keep it into wind at walking pace and wait for the rotor to spin up some more.
Once the rotor is spinning noticeably, apply a bit more throttle, maybe three quarters, so that the autogyro accelerates then lift off like a normal fixed wing aircraft.
If you do it like this there is almost no requirement to use any rotor tilt control.
It takes more time to write down the procedure than to actually do it.
Check out the movies I posted on the thread previously to see it in action.
Hope this helps,
|Dec 11, 2012, 12:47 PM|
|Dec 12, 2012, 10:02 AM|
Joined May 2010
|Dec 12, 2012, 12:07 PM|
|Dec 13, 2012, 01:34 AM|
Joined Aug 2007
I thought I would chime in with my experience. First off, I put 3" wheels for takeoff on grass. Ironically, on my first two days I flew, there was no wind. It was hit and miss on the first day, with it tilting left after pulling elevator. I spun the rotor up as fast as I could before takeoff.
I finally somehow got the main rotor spinning fast enuff and ROG (Rose off grass) after driving around like an RC car for a while. Flew great. I have attempted this 6 or 7 times and haven't found the right AOA to get that damn thing spinning reliably.
I've flown a lot of trainer/warbird conventional gear planes off this field with the drag also, but powered through the drag with many watts.
On this 1" grass, no other choice, I still have a LOT of problems lifting off without looking like a Benny Hill outtake on a day with no wind. I was thinking about a motorized spinner thing that would spin the head up to 300 RPM or so. I'm not sure I'm that enamoured with the Auto experience to construct something like this spinner device though.
Anyway, it's different. I'll mess around with it this winter.
|Dec 13, 2012, 01:44 PM|
I almost did too but, since I already have one, I'll wait to see if parts become available. Extra blades, props and head assemblies can be put in the same box.
|Dec 13, 2012, 11:55 PM|
|Dec 14, 2012, 05:08 PM|
Boondocks, East Coast, USA
Joined Jun 2003
When you do the toothpick on the inner hole, do you ream out the plastic so it will fit all the way thru to the barrel of the toothpick? My tooth picks are a bigger diamter than the screws. A picture of that installation would be great. Something I've learned is the GWS HD two blade props 10 x 8 or the GWS 3 blade SF prop 9 x 7 both draw about the same as the stock 10x8 prop. Also, they break easily in a crash instead of bending the motor shaft. The Master airscrew 10x 7 works fine but is very stiff. I am having a blast flying this thing. Great thread especially if you are having any trouble.
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Help! Slow-g slow stick auto gyro||PilotDragonfly||Auto Gyros||4||May 23, 2012 09:14 PM|
|Sold Zenoah G-23 w/muffler and FEMA auto start||LotusTRBO||Aircraft - Fuel - Engines and Accessories (FS/W)||1||Jul 06, 2006 12:27 AM|
|Discussion Xero G Auto.||epc2||Electric Heli Talk||2||Apr 01, 2006 08:08 PM|
|Video Xero G Auto.||epc2||Electric Heli Talk||0||Apr 01, 2006 03:35 PM|