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Old Jan 07, 2011, 06:43 PM
made of fire and pop rocks
bgnome's Avatar
Richmond Virginia
Joined Oct 2009
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Guillows Cessna Skyhawk 172, kit 802

Greetings everyone!

I got this kit for Christmas. I've built several of the smaller kits over the years as I sure all of you have. I Started wing construction today.

I intend to make this little guy RC I have a Hitec 055 reciever and the servos to go with it.

I'm not sure if I'm going to go electric yet, or slap in that .049 golden bee I have yet, but I figured I'd ask my questions in the 1/2a forum as this is at least a 1/2a sized plane that I hope some of y'all might experience with.


So.. to cut to the chase. I've got 80% of the center section of the wing done. I think I have too much of it built up to think about making the ailerons functional, though I could be wrong, someone might have a better answer. But, right now I'm planning on rudder and elevator.

With that said, the question now falls to Dihedral.
in particular. the plans say if I'm making the model as free flight, to set the outer wing sections from the center section at 1 1/4" at the tip, for display, 1/2" and for control line to make the wing flat.

So... how should I proceed at this point for what I want to do? If no aileron control.. give it the free flight dihedral? If I can make the Ailerons functional, make it a flat wing?

What would you do in this situation?

Also, I would be glad to keep y'all updated with the build if anyone is interested
thank you in advance
PJ
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 10:48 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
coriolan's Avatar
Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Sep 2006
5,759 Posts
A #800 size Guillow kit will be perfect for an .049. For a rudder/elevator you'll need some dihedral but not as much as what recommanded for free flight. There is a huge sticky in the scale forum about Guillow kits conversions:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82786 There is some nice 1/2A Guillow from mlbco in that forum:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150284
For inspiration also look into that site for ver neat small flyers:
http://my.pclink.com/~dfritzke/index.html
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 11:36 PM
made of fire and pop rocks
bgnome's Avatar
Richmond Virginia
Joined Oct 2009
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Dig it! thanks for the heads up, I'll be checking that all that out.

My natural inclination for a R/E set up is to have some dihedral to give some built in self righting and inclination to roll.

this is my first "serious" airplane build in quite a few years.

just in case anyones interested.. heres a pic of the wing so far. pretty much all built up. still need to put the leading edge on the left hand side. the wing tips have not been set to lace yet, and the ailerons have been set aside.
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Old Jan 08, 2011, 09:36 AM
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Michigan, USA
Joined Jul 2006
577 Posts
R/E setups have to have dihedral to turn properly. I just checked my Q-Tee wing and my Cox Katydid and they both have about 1.5" of dihedral on each side. I don't think I'd go below 1" on yours.

Jim
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Old Jan 08, 2011, 09:41 AM
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With aileron control, the scale dihedral works well, which is not much. This is a good flying plane when built straight with a bit of washout, and can handle some weight such as fuse sheeting. It looks better than many of the ARFs also, and you'll be proud of it. The plane is now one of my favorite flyers.

I even put a Maxx Products light system in it, as it has all the scale light bezels. Cut off the dummy lights and let the tiny Maxx lights protrude through the bezels. About the only thing I would have done differently, is not not glue the main landing gear strut covers to the fuse. I would leave them floating, so that when the landing gear flexes, it does not crack the strut bases. I've glued the hairline cracks with CA, but I'll just cut them away the next time there is a crack, so they can float. Oh well, if they are a bit misaligned.
Bill
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Old Jan 09, 2011, 06:47 PM
made of fire and pop rocks
bgnome's Avatar
Richmond Virginia
Joined Oct 2009
1,711 Posts
thanks for all hints folks, and especialy for the build pics!

while I think that it is too late to add lightni.. lite... holes in the wing ribs... I don't think its too late to make the ailerons functional, then go with a static rudder instead. I think I can still run carbon fiber push rod to a bell crank to control them.

yeah.. I've seen the simular sized foamy 172... I think its put out by GWS? they got one hanging over at my LHS... and quite frankly... it looks like a pile of foam. Certainly not "scale" and while I'm sure it has a better "bounce" factor for bad landings... it's just not for me.

besides.. I was brought up building stuff, and I like to do it. I'd much rather build something, then just buy a box and toss it's contents in the air...

there is more of emotional connection with the model if you build it yourself if you ask me. Makes you a better thumb pilot in the long term.
If y'all are interested I'll keep updating this build.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 05:50 PM
made of fire and pop rocks
bgnome's Avatar
Richmond Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1post View Post
With aileron control, the scale dihedral works well, which is not much. This is a good flying plane when built straight with a bit of washout, and can handle some weight such as fuse sheeting.
Bill,
Can I presume that when you sheeted the fuse you used 1/32" balsa and followed the same lines as called for when cutting the tissue covering?

as for the rest of the build.. I decided to set the wing tip Dihedral at 1" and stick with the original Idea of R/E control.

I figure the plans have full size illustrations for all the bits, so, in the future, if I wanted to I just scratch out a straight wing for full Aileron control. I got a computer radio and I could just make a program for either wing set up.

I haven't a chance to much building since I last posted. But in that time I've gotten the fuse 70% built up. I need to finish up the stringers. and build up the landing gear structures.
but I do like the idea of sheeting the fuse instead of covering it.

the stick construction is pretty rigid and feather light as is, but I like the more built up look you got going there. I also assume after that you got some sanding sealer going on the paint as normal?
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