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Old May 03, 2015, 04:59 PM
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E-OSD Setup (tutorial), and Calibration.

E-OSD Setup and Calibration (tutorial)

E-OSD Setup:

My E-OSD setup with Fat Shark Predators (starter kit), but can be used with any setup as well.
You must know your system's wiring and codes, such as black for ground (GND), red for power (5V or 12V), and yellow (video). Also, black is “negative” and red is “positive.”

If setting up E-OSD with Fat Shark Predators (starter kit) like me, use this picture for wiring (it's not my picture, I got it online):

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Description:

I used this picture. It works a 100% percent for me. With this setup you will be providing the E-OSD with filtered power. Which helps with not having any issues of voltage display, strange “characters” appearing on the screen.

The instructions that came with the E-OSD is misleading at times, that's why I'm doing this tutorial. I'm assuming you already know how to solder and use shrink tubing, so, after you've wired the E-OSD into your system, follow number 2 of the manual: “Connection & Button Introduction.” This section is accurate. Note: to get filtered power to power your E-OSD, you must use a separate battery and connect it to BATT 2 (use the picture as a guide). [Note: wiring your E-OSD this way is only for providing filtered power, to turn on, your E-OSD! It won't display your flight battery voltage (however, it will display the voltage that’s powering your E-OSD).

You will now have to solder a red/black wire to your flight battery (in parallel) to get voltage read-out of your (main) flight battery. I soldered these wires onto my XT-60 connector, directly. (See picture below).

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I used braided servo wire (remove yellow wire) to connect to XT-60 connector. You must then connect the other end of the servo wire (the one with the actual servo connector) to BATT 1: “Voltage Detection Connector.” Don’t worry, you don’t necessarily have to buy hook-up wire from Hobby King to connect your E-OSD into your system. You can just use braided servo wire. But of course, buy it if you can. I did.

Now, after you’ve soldered everything and checked the wires' polarity on everything (following the manual) to your E-OSD, it's time to power your E-OSD.

The E-OSD won't get damaged if you plug the flight battery first, or the other way around, or if you don’t turn on your goggles first. It doesn’t matter. Nothing will get damaged.

Turn on your goggles (or video screen), and power the E-OSD by connecting the battery to BATT 2. Your battery's (powering) voltage will now be displayed. If you haven’t done it already, plug in your flight battery too. You will now have two battery voltages being displayed, along with a timer. Notice that the timer and voltages being displayed are in a “shaded bar” up the top screen. Don’t be scared, your E-OSD is not broken or defective in any way. Just follow the instructions on setting up a different screen readout/position without the “shaded bar” display.

E-OSD Calibration:

The instructions to calibrate the E-OSD is very misleading, or at least, very confusing. It's also wrong. So, don’t use it.

Use these steps instead:
1) Have your goggles (or screen) turned on.
2) Press and hold the Menu Button (2.4).
3) While holding the Menu Button, connect battery to BATT 2.
4) After you see the calibration screen, immediately let go of the Menu Button.

Now, the instructions on +/- “VOLTAGE 1 TUNNING” decreasing or increasing by 1mV is also wrong. So is +/- “VOLTAGE 2 TUNNING” decreasing or increasing by 2mV. Both of these are wrong! Don’t use them!

Use this instead as a guide:
1) “-VOLTAGE 1 TUNNING” decreases BATT 2 voltage by 1mV.
2) “+VOLTAGE 1 TUNNING” increases BATT 2 voltage by 1mV.
3) “-VOLTAGE 2 TUNNING” decreases BATT 1 voltage by 1mV.
4) “+VOLTAGE 2 TUNNING” increases BATT 1 voltage by 1mV.

After you’ve calibrated your E-OSD to match your batteries, click “Save data” (short pressing). This is the only way you can exit the calibration menu. Do this. It will save your settings.

That’s it! Go out and fly!

But wait a minute, you might want to use a battery buzzer on your first flight to check at what voltage being displayed is safe to land or come home. Also, take into account the battery's voltage under load and no load. This is very important, especially when first calibrating the battery(s); as voltage fluctuates under load and no load. One note to mention: the battery powering my E-OSD is also powering my 250mW Fat Shark transmitter and camera, both having filtered power. Also, use a high quality battery checker when calibrating your battery(s). I use Hitec's Lipo Checker, it's very reliable.

I hoped this helped.
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Old May 04, 2015, 01:27 AM
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Also, if you're just going to use a single battery to power everything and don't want a separate battery to power your E-OSD, you can still get filtered power if you connect your battery to BATT 2. Just follow the picture for wiring the E-OSD to your system (the picture I provided that's not mine, that I got online. Use it).
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Who 2002 View Post
E-OSD Setup and Calibration (tutorial)

E-OSD Setup:

My E-OSD setup with Fat Shark Predators (starter kit), but can be used with any setup as well.
You must know your system's wiring and codes, such as black for ground (GND), red for power (5V or 12V), and yellow (video). Also, black is “negative” and red is “positive.”

If setting up E-OSD with Fat Shark Predators (starter kit) like me, use this picture for wiring (it's not my picture, I got it online):

Attachment 7832133

I used this picture. It works a 100% percent for me. With this setup you will be providing the E-OSD with filtered power. Which helps with not having any issues of voltage display, strange “characters” appearing on the screen.

The instructions that came with the E-OSD is misleading at times, that's why I'm doing this tutorial. I'm assuming you already know how to solder and use shrink tubing, so, after you've wired the E-OSD into your system, follow number 2 of the manual: “Connection & Button Introduction.” This section is accurate. Note: to get filtered power to power your E-OSD, you must use a separate battery and connect it to BATT 2 (use the picture as a guide). [Note: wiring your E-OSD this way is only for providing filtered power, to turn on, your E-OSD! It won't display your flight battery voltage (however, it will display the voltage that’s powering your E-OSD).

You will now have to solder a red/black wire to your flight battery (in parallel) to get voltage read-out of your (main) flight battery. I soldered these wires onto my XT-60 connector, directly. (See picture below).

Attachment 7832112

I used braided servo wire (remove yellow wire) to connect to XT-60 connector. You must then connect the other end of the servo wire (the one with the actual servo connector) to BATT 1: “Voltage Detection Connector.” Don’t worry, you don’t necessarily have to buy hook-up wire from Hobby King to connect your E-OSD into your system. You can just use braided servo wire. But of course, buy it if you can. I did.

Now, after you’ve soldered everything and checked the wires' polarity on everything (following the manual) to your E-OSD, it's time to power your E-OSD.

The E-OSD won't get damaged if you plug the flight battery first, or the other way around, or if you don’t turn on your goggles first. It doesn’t matter. Nothing will get damaged.

Turn on your goggles (or video screen), and power the E-OSD by connecting the battery to BATT 2. Your battery's (powering) voltage will now be displayed. If you haven’t done it already, plug in your flight battery too. You will now have two battery voltages being displayed, along with a timer. Notice that the timer and voltages being displayed are in a “shaded bar” up the top screen. Don’t be scared, your E-OSD is not broken or defective in any way. Just follow the instructions on setting up a different screen readout/position without the “shaded bar” display.

E-OSD Calibration:

The instructions to calibrate the E-OSD is very misleading, or at least, very confusing. It's also wrong. So, don’t use it.

Use these steps instead:
1) Have your goggles (or screen) turned on.
2) Press and hold the Menu Button (2.4).
3) While holding the Menu Button, connect battery to BATT 2.
4) After you see the calibration screen, immediately let go of the Menu Button.

Now, the instructions on +/- “VOLTAGE 1 TUNNING” decreasing or increasing by 1mV is also wrong. So is +/- “VOLTAGE 2 TUNNING” decreasing or increasing by 2mV. Both of these are wrong! Don’t use them!

Use this instead as a guide:
1) “-VOLTAGE 1 TUNNING” decreases BATT 2 voltage by 1mV.
2) “+VOLTAGE 1 TUNNING” increases BATT 2 voltage by 1mV.
3) “-VOLTAGE 2 TUNNING” decreases BATT 1 voltage by 1mV.
4) “+VOLTAGE 2 TUNNING” increases BATT 1 voltage by 1mV.

After you’ve calibrated your E-OSD to match your batteries, click “Save data” (short pressing). This is the only way you can exit the calibration menu. Do this. It will save your settings.

That’s it! Go out and fly!

But wait a minute, you might want to use a battery buzzer on your first flight to check at what voltage being displayed is safe to land or come home. Also, take into account the battery's voltage under load and no load. This is very important, especially when first calibrating the battery(s); as voltage fluctuates under load and no load. One note to mention: the battery powering my E-OSD is also powering my 250mW Fat Shark transmitter and camera, both having filtered power. Also, use a high quality battery checker when calibrating your battery(s). I use Hitec's Lipo Checker, it's very reliable.

I hoped this helped.
How do I go to Save Data, it always end up to Load Default after I do the voltage tuning (then goes to read something like 63 V), not sure what do you mean by short press.
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 05:14 PM
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mine is different?

ok my E-OSD is different, to move between the voltage tuning and the save/load menu I have to long press.
Now here's the weird thing, my battery is a 3S 11 V and during calibration I can see 11450 mV whic is correct as my multimeter reads 11.4 V.
Now after doing Save settings (yeah finallly), I was expecting to read something around 11.4 V but I am reading something like 45 V ?

I have one single battery connected to Batt2.

What the heck is going on?
Any tiny help is apreciated before I trash this board!
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 05:25 PM
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Hello. What I meant by short pressing is to just simple click the button. That's it. Don't hold the button down for awhile. As for your OSD displaying 63 volts, yikes!, that's very suspicious. Could be a defective product? Anyways, have you tried long pressing (holding down the button for awhile) to skip "Load Default" after completing the voltage tuning in order to get to the "Save Data" step? Again, you getting 63 volts is very suspicious. I never got that with mine.
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 05:55 PM
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No, your E-OSD is no different than mine in regard to having to long press in order to move between calibration, save data, load default, etc... I also have to do the same thing. Now, you getting 45 volts isn't normal! You probably got a defective product. However, is it possible that you might have plugged-in something wrong before you got started in all of this? I've read on a thread about this guy frying his E-OSD and his video camera because he didn't do it right the first time. Unfortunately, these FPV components aren't "idiot proof" like the rest of the electronics that we buy day-to-day from Walmart or Best Buy or something. Perhaps there's something wrong with the software inside your E-OSD instead? I had a good experience with my E-OSD. Also, I made sure to double check all connections before plugging-in a battery.
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 07:43 PM
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Hello,
thank you for replying , I got the E-OSD from a friend who was running it on the same identical battery and was reading just fine.
I have checked all the connections and yes as you said I did save the settings, what I don't get it is that calibration looks good but then somehow doesn't get actioned.
I will do another test tomorrow, plug another battery in Vbatt1 to see what's the reading there.
If that's wrong as well I will try my other minim OSD.
Maybe I am having a bad week my Naze32 also failed without reason, gosh!
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 08:30 PM
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No such thing as a bad week exists; just probability and statistics. But, I am curious now about your friend having success with the E-OSD on his gear. Maybe you should let him try it out again on his gear? Anyways, let's see how that goes.
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