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Old Dec 09, 2014, 06:34 PM
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United States, CA, Livermore
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by Gravythe Clown View Post
I blew my stock ESC this summer after a bunch of flights on 4s. I think it was more due to the 108 deg day and WOT to long that did it in. When I put the new ESC in I also moved it in in front of the fan in the intake. I also up it to a 60A. It turns and burns now.

Gravy
unclear how to change the ESC. The connections to the motor are buried under the vertical stabilizer now.
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 06:42 PM
Fly,Crash, Burn,Fix, repeat
Gravythe Clown's Avatar
United States, CA, Fresno
Joined Dec 2013
387 Posts
My ESC was buried in the fuse just aft of the battery. I pulled the fan unit out and disconnected the ESC from the motor and pulled it through the fuse. Then I took my exact-o-knife and cut some foam away in front of the fan to create a ESC bed just the right depth, width and length to install the esc in front of the fan. I then glued the esc into the bed and feed the bat leads and the THR connection through and into the fuse. It didn't take long. maybe an hour to do the whole thing. But man it gets plenty of cooling now.

Gravy
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 07:16 PM
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United States, CA, Livermore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravythe Clown View Post
My ESC was buried in the fuse just aft of the battery. I pulled the fan unit out and disconnected the ESC from the motor and pulled it through the fuse. Then I took my exact-o-knife and cut some foam away in front of the fan to create a ESC bed just the right depth, width and length to install the esc in front of the fan. I then glued the esc into the bed and feed the bat leads and the THR connection through and into the fuse. It didn't take long. maybe an hour to do the whole thing. But man it gets plenty of cooling now.

Gravy
OK, I get the idea how you did. Much appreciated. Did you change the motor too or just using the stock motor?
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 08:08 PM
chuck
santa barbara, CA
Joined May 2009
4,319 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesengr View Post
bending the gear...seems so simple once you know the answer. I'll also look at extending the front. The foam around the front strut got a little mangled when it didn't take off the first time.

Anyway, thanks for the tips. This is why forums are great.

I forgot to ask, does the manual show dialing in reflex? If it does, I missed it. The setup page on the manual sort of confused me with all the white and black arrows. It all seemed backwards unless you assume they mean leading edge( which they don't say) and they show the arrows more on the trailing edge. Good thing I knew the right directions
the needed uptrim (depending on cg )is w/ the l.e. of the elevon near the bottom square edge of the fuse at neutral.
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 08:26 PM
Fly,Crash, Burn,Fix, repeat
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United States, CA, Fresno
Joined Dec 2013
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Originally Posted by rhodesengr View Post
OK, I get the idea how you did. Much appreciated. Did you change the motor too or just using the stock motor?

Nope.
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Old Dec 10, 2014, 09:16 AM
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San Jose, CA
Joined Sep 2003
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Do you guys know where to get the kit now?
Nitroplanes is out of stock for a long long time.
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Old Dec 10, 2014, 11:40 AM
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United States, CA, Livermore
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Originally Posted by whatala View Post
Do you guys know where to get the kit now?
Nitroplanes is out of stock for a long long time.
The PnP version is in stock at Grayson. That is where I bought mine.
http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...pnp-p-727.html

If you are looking for the barebones kit, I guess its not available.
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 06:54 PM
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United States, CA, Livermore
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How to improve the nose landing gear?

OK, so I suck at landing but I am bending the crap out of the front wheel wire if I bounce the plane on landing. I read some posts about people making the front wheel strut more robust but I didn't see any specifics. Anybody got a good scheme to make the front gear stronger?

other issues:
BTW, adding some AOA really improved the takeoff characteristic so thanks again for that tip.

I am seeing a some ballooning if I cut the throttle. Any tips to reduce that? Move CG forward a little?

Fun plane. Just ironing out the kinks.
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 07:20 PM
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United States, PA, Doylestown
Joined Sep 2010
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With regard to bending front strut; either get some real piano wire and make a decent one, or see what you can sleeve the stock one with. A pc. of 1/4" dia. aluminum with a close-fit (to the stock wire) hole thru it, butted up to the washer on the bottom of the fuse, will help loads in preventing the bends.

Of course, so will normal, mains-first landings .

As to the ballooning, you got me. Usually that comes as a result of an exhaust nozzle angled downward. But since the nozzle here is all a part of the foam fuse that's out. Maybe a little - like, 3 or 4mm - shift forward of CG will help...but if it flies well where CG is, I'd be reluctant to move it.
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 08:33 PM
chuck
santa barbara, CA
Joined May 2009
4,319 Posts
well i say it depends on where u have the cg now .

there is some down thrust that is eliminated when u cut the throttle . its needed because these things are unstable so we use a forward cg and compensate w/ all that up trim u see. this is typical of f-16's and many other swept wing jets models. as u go faster that up trim is more and more effective so we add down thrust and the more u gas it , the more down thrust and the more the countering up trim affect.

if u get all of that .................... then here's the thing .............what happens if u have to forward cg? u need more up trim to fly neutral , correct? what happens when u shut off the down thrust (throttle) w/ to much up trim? plane balloons up.

so .........no dont go forward on the cg . it's a common mistake to do so. unless u are already well behind the call out , u need to go back on the cg . mine is close to a 1/2" back ...........but go slow . things change somewhat quickly. u wont need as much up trim and the pitch sensitivity will rise so less travel and or more expo . for me the whole thing is better back a bit . no more dropping the nose in corners and it will flair much better at slow speed. this one is very stable and i have gone back even further but it will bite u sooner or later and it get to where it hunts in pitch and wont stay on tract.

now if your cg is already back as far as u can u need a shim in the tailpipe .........but that's another story altogether

chuck
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 09:23 PM
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I am little more that 80mm back and it does not seem elevator pitchy so I can try going back a little. I added some wood in the front around the nose gear wire to keep it from getting pushed back through the foam. Now it just bends but the CG probably shifted a little further forward. Thanks for the explanation about the downthrust. Some of these thing are counterintuitive.

I also want to try a slightly bigger battery but that will need even more tail weight to compensate. I want to get it dialed in with the 2200's first.

About the nose gear, I am a pretty good machinist but have no access to a lathe anymore. I could bang out a reinforcing rod in no time if I could get on a lathe again. I try to buy pre-made parts as much as possible.
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