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Old Feb 02, 2015, 05:34 PM
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Paint stripping

So it's time to take my Vortex SB down to the fiberglass and repaint. What options do I have to reduce the time this will take? Anybody done the same lately?
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Old Feb 02, 2015, 06:22 PM
If it floats....sail it!
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Clay:

Has it already been painted or is it colored gelcoat? If gelcoat, and you don't want to change the color and it is not badly nicked through the gelcoat, I would just rub it out with a good compound, like 3M Finesse-It and if a dark color finish with a swirl remover. An hour or so and you are done.

If it is painted and you need/want to remove the paint, you could try some paint stripper, but don't let it sit on the surface too long on each coat - shorter is better as some of the strippers will soften the gelcoat. Be sure to wash it off very well before sanding or you grind the stripper into the gelcoat and the primer may not stick to those areas.

If you sand, wash the hull with solvent first and then detergent to get off any dirt and wax - you don't want to grind that into the surface either. Use production type sandpaper that won't clog as easily and start with the finest grade you can so you don't have to do it as many times. Use a sanding board and not your hand so you don't get "finger hollows". Go no finer than the recommendation for the paint you will be using. Some paints need some "tooth" to bond.

As far as paint, lacquer is quicker to dry but does not hold up well. A little spilled solvent or solvent accidentally used on a rag to clean the bottom and it will smear.

Rattle cans work, but need a week or two to dry before polishing. Some much longer than others, especially this time of year if you have a cold shop.

I prefer water-based paint topped with a two part automotive clear coat, wet sanded and polished to a show car finish. I can expand on that if you are interested. I like Nelson Hobby paint (System 3 marine paint repackaged down to pint or quart size containers) because you only need to go down to 220 grit and you can actually get a fantastic job with multiple thin coats using a foam brush. Clean up is a breeze with any water-based paint. However, they must be topped with a two part clear which requires a good organic solvents mask.

Whatever you use, use the same brand of paint as you do primer to reduce compatibility issues.

Have fun. I am glad it you doing this and not me

Steve
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Old Feb 03, 2015, 12:41 PM
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Thanks for the great response Steve. Yea, the boat is fully painted already, so lots of work ahead.
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Old Feb 09, 2015, 01:38 AM
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So I have been working on my boat and optimizing the winch system. Moved padeye that has the pulley on the loop the RMG winch pulls back and forth to get a bit more travel in the system. Also I am going to move the padeye for jib sheet turning block forward and to port some to get more travel on the jib sheet. I am finding out that I placed it to far aft and it has limited my jib to going out to about 85 degrees. Gonna fix that so the jib will go out to about 95 degrees. Also installed a new forestay on my new vector sails jib as I must have made the loop at the end of the wire to small and it failed. Live and learn, not had that issue before. Also shortened the jib boom by about an inch and brought the fitting that slips into the end of the jib boom and holds the counter weight flush with the fitting the forestay terminates on. Makes it so the jib can swivel a little past 90 degrees downwind. We shall see how these little changes affect the boat. Ryan
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Old Feb 10, 2015, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayH View Post
So it's time to take my Vortex SB down to the fiberglass and repaint. What options do I have to reduce the time this will take? Anybody done the same lately?
Clay, do it all the time. Steve's method is exactly what I do except for the part about the water base paints. I have had excellent results using rattle can but I bake the finish to cure it.

SJ
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Old Feb 10, 2015, 07:20 AM
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Steve, what kind of water base paint do you use?

SJ
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Old Feb 10, 2015, 09:55 AM
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Steve's off on a cruise through the Panama Canal, so it will probably be a couple of weeks before he responds...

Mark
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Old Feb 24, 2015, 12:05 PM
If it floats....sail it!
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I'm back! Great trip, even if it did take two more days after the ship was 4 hrs late into port and my air reservations turned into a mess with two extra days to get home. With that storm on in the East, air travel is a mess.

Anyway.... I like the Nelson's Hobby (System 3 marine topsides paint). http://www.nelsonhobby.com/hobby_paint.php It gives a great finish and does not require a clear coat. It has a optional cross linker to make it stronger and I do use that. Three light coats with a foam brush and you have a very good finish. He will mix just about any reasonably standard color you want at no extra charge.

It can be top coated with his clear - its OK but does not polish out as well as an automotive clear. It too is waterbased so no mask is required during application. For a great show car finish, I top coat with a rattle can two part clear. (A good mask MUST be used when spraying!) You break an internal ampule and have 48 hrs to spray it (kept in the frig after mixing and you can stretch that to 72 hrs). http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/...3680061-02.htm I get it at my local auto paint store. It is not cheap so you do have to plan to do several small jobs at the same time. One can does 3 coats on SB hull. You need a second can to do the deck. Polished out with a 3" random orbital polisher and foam pads, it can get literally a mirror surface. At the Reynold's Numbers at which our boats sail, the smoother the finish, the less drag it has.

If I need a color that Nelson's can't make, I use AutoAir which is one of several marketing channels of Createx waterbased paints sprayed with either an air brush or Harbor Freight HVLP trim gun.http://www.autoaircolors.com/products.html You can see my Seawind done with one of their fluorescent paints here http://sacmyc.net/marketplace.asp http://www.autoaircolors.com/paints/4261.html

Again, whatever paint you use, the primer should be the same brand or you can get compatibility issues. I did not for one boat and had to strip the new paint and start over

If you would like more specifics, PM me.

Steve
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Old Feb 24, 2015, 11:24 PM
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Working hard on 443. Almost done with radio board. This retrofit includes an RC adjustable vang like the Wheeler Class uses. It has a hitec 5805 servo mounted on the port side to adjust the vang under way. All new rig made from cut down new ACP wheeler rig. The boat is coming along better now and with some luck and hard work, should have Jerry sailing soon. Ryan
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Old Today, 01:03 AM
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Time to join the Sacto bunch on Sunday for the first race of the season. Any other local boats going? Ryan
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