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Old Apr 26, 2012, 10:57 PM
Jesus Freak
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Southern CA
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to be illustrative:

Screw #96 that goes into arm #59 on page 16 of the manual needs to be tensioned such that the flybar bounces when you flick it with your finger.

Manual

I also sent an email to Saul asking him to add this to the tip page
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 11:18 PM
H&H
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Merci. I wonder, could I install the AR7200BX Spektrum flybarless system on the FC?
Would I need to put a new head on or could I use the system on the chopper as is?
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 11:42 PM
Jesus Freak
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You would have to mod the head, it's been done (not with an ar7200bx that I know of) but I suggest getting it flying properly before a fbl mod is done
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 11:51 PM
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United States, CA, San Ramon
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Hey all,
It has been awhile since I have commented here. I had all I needed for putting my FC together except for a few connectors for my ESC. For some reason it was taking forever for them to get here and I ended up going to my LHS (45 min drive each way) to get the parts. So now I am finally ready to program the ESC and I am wondering if I got the right one. As suggested on page 218 #3270 I got the Turningy AE-45A (PRODUCT ID: TAE-45A). It was also recomended that the two most important settings were switching frequency = 16kHz and timing settings = auto. This ESC only has 12khz and 24khz. and a multitude of timing options that DO NOT include Auto. I have attached the ESC settings below. Did I get the wrong ESC? Will this one work well? Should I try for another (recomendations). I really want this to work right and not be a hack. If this will work can someone suggest from the list of settings for this ESC which ones I should use?

Thanks all for the help!
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 12:10 AM
H&H
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ATC, You know I just went out to my shop and flicked that flybar silly....
Guess what? It was tighter than a frogs butt. I hope that's it and my problems are history.
I just hope it's not too bent up already for me to try it without having to rebuild the darn thing already.
Helicopter guys are so helpful Thanks.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 12:59 AM
The Future is Gnar
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
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Originally Posted by H&H View Post
ATC, You know I just went out to my shop and flicked that flybar silly....
Guess what? It was tighter than a frogs butt. I hope that's it and my problems are history.
I just hope it's not too bent up already for me to try it without having to rebuild the darn thing already.
Helicopter guys are so helpful Thanks.
Tighter than a frogs butt. Awesome. I'm gonna use that line if you don't mind.

Hopefully, that sorts it out.

I hope that Rusty chimes in tomorrow with a stable Funcopter.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 01:02 AM
H&H
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I loosened the #96 and the flybar loosened up some but hardly "bouced back"
Anything must be an improvement eh?
Also Do you guys think an Align RCE-500X head lock gyro is better than the stock gyro?
I have one to try if you say yes.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 01:08 AM
The Future is Gnar
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
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Try 12 kHz and 26.5 degree timing. Spec frequency for the FC motor is 13kHz. I'm running mine at 16kHz and 30 degrees, so I think you'd be in the ballpark.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 01:33 AM
Jesus Freak
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LOL ever see the movie Gungho with Michael Keaton? Is a frogs butt water tight?

I use a little silicone spray lube on that arm I also put Teflon washers both sides of the arm

If you have that align gyro I'd use it over the stock one
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by fluxcapacitor121 View Post
Great news that she is flying better Bnick.

I almost gave up on my 4#6 until somebody on a forum told me to loosen the flybar. It was a eureka moment after weeks of erratic crashing and swearing. Ever since then, it has become a habit on every Heli I buy with a flybar to set it loose.

Again, really glad to hear it's flying better. Nothing more frustrating than a broken bird from the factory.
I'm so glad you recommended it... What a wonderful difference...
Thanks...
bnick
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Hey all,

First of all, Iíd like to thank you guys for your input!

Secondly, I have a confession to make, and this is kind of embarrassing.

I was messing around with my FC this morning and discovered I had the gyro set to rate mode, not HH mode. What a difference a little flick of a switch can make!

The tail now holds 98% better then before, still way touchy on the stick, but I think I have to reset the expo to help correct that.

Another question for ya, Iím running in acro mode, is this correct? Or is it my choice since itís only 4 channels? Iíve found acro mode to work better, but I donít know how to adjust the gyro.

Thanks for your time,
Mike
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by starz View Post
Hey all,

First of all, Iíd like to thank you guys for your input!

Secondly, I have a confession to make, and this is kind of embarrassing.

I was messing around with my FC this morning and discovered I had the gyro set to rate mode, not HH mode. What a difference a little flick of a switch can make!

The tail now holds 98% better then before, still way touchy on the stick, but I think I have to reset the expo to help correct that.

Another question for ya, Iím running in acro mode, is this correct? Or is it my choice since itís only 4 channels? Iíve found acro mode to work better, but I donít know how to adjust the gyro.

Thanks for your time,
Mike
Funny you should bring this up because I have long had my FCV2 set up for a Heli model on my DX8, and yes it flies ok that way having it's swash menu set to single servo, rather than the 3 servo 120į setting my Trex 450 uses but I have just found even with my other Heli's such as my, mSR, HoneyBee FPV2, and my Blade120SR, that when I use Heli mode on my Tx it does work but I have seen a bit of unwanted swash mixing being done in Heli mode that I just don't see in Acro model mode...

Just yesterday why re-reading the manual for the 30th time (actually because it is interesting) and I saw again where Multiplex themselves recommend Acro model mode be used to stop any unwanted mixing the Heli modes just seem to do inherently...

After re-creating my FunCopter V2 model as an Acro and deleting the Heli model I do feel my controls were noticeably isolated and discrete to my stick input only... Seems my FP's always get a small amount of unwanted aileron to elevator mixing when I just want elevator, and the same for unwanted elevator responses when making just an aileron change and this happens even when just a 1 servo swash is chosen...

Just some thoughts...
bnick
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 10:17 PM
FlyAway
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United States, NM, Roswell
Joined Feb 2012
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Well guys I'm starting this from ground up. I should not have bought the RR V2 FC because now that I'm reading the manual I see some problems with who ever at the factory set it up wrong! No threadlock on bottom of motor shaft holder causing me a motor lockup Arrr! Also on page 34 of manual it says tail servo set to inside hole of servo that's correct, mine is set at inside, but it says the other two servos would use the outer holes mine are set from the factory to the inner holes. So now I'm asking the experts here do I use the outer holes like manual says or do I use the factory set inner holes? RR V2 FC not so good of a choice should have went ARF. Little things like this make a big difference on performance, and me being a nobbie at this makes it very difficult, and fustrating. If they are RR I thought it would be ready to go not so there are quite a few settings, and they need to be right in order for it to function properly. 600 skids are in, and I should have it in the air by Monday.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Iím not the expert here, but I found that on the cyclic servos, ďaileron and elevatorĒ servos, the outer position gives me more responsiveness, and inner position, gives me a more docile machine. Which is the way I fly. Docile, Iím getting old!

So itís basically how you want your machine to respond to stick input. Outer, quicker response, inner, softer response.

Iím sure one of the experts here will chime in.

Mike
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:37 PM
Jesus Freak
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I like them on the outer holes
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