Vern-

The beveled rib was supposed to glue in at the root of the tip panels. Then the plywood 1/16" cap rib glues outside that. You will end up with two plywood 1/16" ribs butted together where the joint is and yes, the dihedral wing joiner is what goes in unglued to the tube spars to join the wing panels when flying.
Tape is used to keep the panels from sliding apart in flight.
After flying, un tape the wings and you have a center section and two tips.

i have one outer wing panel finished and have the other all ready for glueing
i take it there's no shear webbing on the outer panels

andrew

Originally Posted by target

Vern-

The beveled rib was supposed to glue in at the root of the tip panels. Then the plywood 1/16" cap rib glues outside that. You will end up with two plywood 1/16" ribs butted together where the joint is and yes, the dihedral wing joiner is what goes in unglued to the tube spars to join the wing panels when flying.
Tape is used to keep the panels from sliding apart in flight.
After flying, un tape the wings and you have a center section and two tips.

ok, thanks for the info. I have already used the normal 1/4 in rib and glued the 1/16" plywood cap. So, it will not be a hard re-do repair. I see at the bottom right of the print showing the angle rib and 10 degree angle. It was covered up by all the glue and tools sitting on top of that portion!! crap!

thanks,
Vern

Originally Posted by andrew wallace

i take it there's no shear webbing on the outer panels
andrew

Hi Andrew

If you want to put shear webs there you can but it doesn't need it, but I put it on my mid panels not the tips.
The Oculus is designed for a good hard launch not a full pedal launch...you will find that it will go up like a kite on a line without trying to get it to the moon.

Clarence

I used one "stick" of ballast Sunday at Visalia on my last flight of the contest with the Oculus. There was some light breezes on tghe ground, and many powerful thermals working through the field.
With the added 6oz weight, the plane had no problem in the massive thermal I drove it to.
In fact, it may have helped it climb higher with the slightly higher airspeed the plane was cruising at.
I can say that using the center panel main spar as a ballast tube does work.

R,

Target

[QUOTE=target;22944292
I can say that using the center panel main spar as a ballast tube does work.

R,

Target[/QUOTE]

Yes it works but with all things there is a cost. ballast in the wing tube works at cost of handling because the further out you spread the ballast past the center point of the wing it requires more to turn the plane so there is a point that all is still good but there is also a point that you cut the turning performance on a RES plane it is not seen as much on full house planes. that is why many people that ballast will put the mass of the weight inside the fuse in a larger mass to help keep the performance cut from happening.

I am going to make up a 6oz and I might make a 10oz for mine to work in a pinch for when I need to ballast...it would amaze some people what just 6oz can do in a light wind.

Clarence

It works for me and adds no extra weight while not ballasted.
I'll continue to use it.

R,
Target

Great to hear it flies well!
I am a slow builder, I have 40 hrs into the wing. I have the wing completed. It is a fun build. I am trying to assemble the Oculus as perfect as it is suppose to be. Now I have to spend time peeling the glue off my fingers. I don't think I have any fingerprints left!
Vern

On the carbon wing joiner rods, once the incidence pins are set and glued, Do I also glue in one side of the carbon wing joiner rods? Mine rotate around and it is difficult to get everything lined up again?
thanks,
Vern

Hi Vern
No need to glue the rods in it will move around so you will need to tape the wing root ends together before flight. the trouble with gluing the rods in is that if you need to replace them and yes it can happen you will be in a bad way trying to figure out how to get the rod end out without damaging the wing spar tube.

Clarence

hi vern
i'm with you on the glue on the fingers i would normally build using white pva so using so much CA really does speed the whole thing up
i now have the two outer wing panels finished and i have just the tips to make now
Clarence i've went with the shear webbing on the mid panels because i would be aggressive on the winch the model i would normally fly i'm able to keep my foot to the floor, so i'll need be a good bit of practice

Originally Posted by andrew wallace

i've went with the shear webbing on the mid panels because i would be aggressive on the winch the model i would normally fly i'm able to keep my foot to the floor, so i'll need be a good bit of practice

Hi Andrew
It looking good and at this rate it won't be too long before you finish. The shear webs are a good choice because the small amount of weight you add will be nothing compared to the added strength you will add to the wing panel.
"so i'll need be a good bit of practice" don't we all...too many times I see people over drive the winch and the plane in there quest to be the highest on launch and when all is said and done they didn't get that plane to the moon, it is all about practice and set up in getting a great launch.

Clarence

Well a few more hours of work on # 22 and I will be done, I can't wait to give it a flight.

Today is a happy day for another reason, I just picked up My new E-Oculus fuse and the red is "SWEET" and the workmanship that goes into the fuse is amazing.
so now I need to get the green Oculus done before I start with the E-Oculus.

Way to go Merrill this E-Oculus is another winner in a long list of winners from MM Glider.

Clarence

Got started back on the new master for a 2nd mold for the Oculus. Hope to have it molded in a few weeks. Had to clean up some pin holes in the canopy area. If it works out I will make a 3rd mold. Trying to keep up with demand. With the cold weather setting in curing times are slower.

The fuse colors are Flaming RED & Eyeball White.


Merrill

Originally Posted by Mr B....

Got started back on the new master for a 2nd mold for the Oculus. Hope to have it molded in a few weeks. Had to clean up some pin holes in the canopy area. If it works out I will make a 3rd mold. Trying to keep up with demand. With the cold weather setting in curing times are slower.

The fuse colors are Flaming RED & Eyeball White.


Merrill

Merrill,

What kind of finish is used on the fuselages? Enamel, Epoxy Paint, Gelcoat?