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Old Aug 26, 2015, 12:12 AM
kakariki is online now
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Ok thanks, I'll look for some good news.
I know he had email problems and had to go somewhere to read them.
Barry
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Old Aug 28, 2015, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMP_blackfoot View Post
I just received a set of 3D printed parts for my ED Racer, and at the same time I learned that there was an article published in Aeromodeller about it.
The parts are from Shapeways and the links to them are on post #9348:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9348
Could anyone PM me a copy or scan of the article ?
The assembly was finished as explained in the article (thanks Sundancer!) and the engine was run for about 20 minutes total with a Tornado 9x4 nylon prop. Full throttle a little over 9000 rpm and when closing the throttle, rpm drops to 5000 then after a couple of seconds settles around 3200 rpm. Recovery to full throttle is good and quick.
I had questions about the rotary valve moving back and forth, but it does work well and is held close to the backplate by the surface tension of the oil. Also, no sign of wear after the 20 minutes test runs.
Altogether a cheap and neat way to turn the old Racer into a practical R/C engine.
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Old Aug 29, 2015, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMP_blackfoot View Post
The assembly was finished as explained in the article (thanks Sundancer!) and the engine was run for about 20 minutes total with a Tornado 9x4 nylon prop. Full throttle a little over 9000 rpm and when closing the throttle, rpm drops to 5000 then after a couple of seconds settles around 3200 rpm. Recovery to full throttle is good and quick.
I had questions about the rotary valve moving back and forth, but it does work well and is held close to the backplate by the surface tension of the oil. Also, no sign of wear after the 20 minutes test runs.
Altogether a cheap and neat way to turn the old Racer into a practical R/C engine.
Thank you for giving me the benefit of the doubt and your positive reaction.
Order yours this weekend and get free shipping!
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Old Aug 29, 2015, 05:04 AM
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Today I attended an annual RC meeting held locally and was offered a box of control line bits free to a good home (no-one else there was interested in it).
Inside there happened to be a couple of DC spitfires in their boxes, spare propshaft, bunch of DC nylon props and what I guess is a fairly early PAW15, also in its box.
Got them home tonight and started cleaning up one of the spitfires. After freeing the internals with a heatgun and liberal fuel soaking I was easily able to start it up in my hand Seems like a nice engine.

Looking forward to running a couple of tanks through it tomorrow. Hopefully the other two engines clean up just as easily.
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Old Aug 29, 2015, 07:18 AM
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spare propshaft
Strange.... it looks on the picture, as if it is missing its crankpin????
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Old Aug 29, 2015, 01:22 PM
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Strange.... it looks on the picture, as if it is missing its crankpin????
Probably why the spare was bought to repair one of the engines
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Old Aug 29, 2015, 03:25 PM
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Strange.... it looks on the picture, as if it is missing its crankpin????
Ha! you're right! I didn't notice that until you mentioned it. Just went out and had another look, the pin is indeed sheared off. Could the broken part have been kept in the hope of future repair? Seem unlikely I guess.
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Old Aug 29, 2015, 10:37 PM
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Shape ways parts for the Racer

Dieseltinus, Fiery, JMP_blackfoot, Sundancer,

Hi guys, I'm keen to get the parts for my Racer but I'm not quite sure what I need. No experience with 3D printing at all I'm afraid.

I've got a spare OS spray bar (not sure if it's the PET one) or I can flog a PAW one of a disused (well it will become disused if I steal the spray bar of it) engine so I guess either the OS or PAW back plate will do.

There is an updated rotary valve listed there so I presume I should buy that as well?

Dieseltinus, you say in your descriptions on Shapeway not to buy 'polished' colours. But then you talk about polishing, dyeing, and fixing with cyano. I'm a bit lost. The options are white, black, and metallic. If I stick with one of those options will that work? I see that JMP's parts are black.

Does the rotary valve spin on a pin or does it ride on the plastic of the back plate?

I guess many of my questions would be answered in the mentioned article. Sundancer, is it possible for you to post that article here or to send me a copy please?

Thanks guys for any help you can give me.

I see that the free shipping offer does extend to New Zealand but I'll fore go that and wait to see what guidance you gentlemen can provide.

Thank You,

Dave H
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Old Yesterday, 02:40 AM
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Hello, Dave,
The needle valve assembly in this picture is an OS PET099:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9348

No need to buy an updated rotary valve. The one in a complete set will do. But I shall
try to swop old for new during the day.

The ¨polished colors¨ as provided by shapeways will lose some detail as the colour is fixated by spraying it with acetone after dying. But you need some good sharp edges, not
rounded off ones. Better forget that as I did not made them available anyway. Black and white are safe options. Metallic could work; detail is fine enough. I didn´t try. If you want colour, buy white and colour it yourself.

The rotary valve does indeed spin on a pin.

The OS PET099, PAW and old ED backplates are all the same. The difference is in the barrel.

Have a nice day, Hans
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Old Yesterday, 04:25 AM
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Thanks Hans,

Black is fine, I was just unsure how it all worked. But what you are saying is the colour options at the bottom of the page are good (well black and white any way).

I'll order a set soon.

Thank you,

Dave H
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Old Today, 09:49 AM
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For my second Racer, a newer one bought in 1987 and fitted with the nylon backplate assembly, I ordered the metallic plastic backplate set. We'll see how that goes.
The pin for the rotary valve is a press fit in the backplate.
I used a 3/32" piano wire pin (hard to get a 2mm pin locally...)
The rotary valve was drilled with a 3/32" (2.381 mm) drill bit in the press drill, then wiggled slightly to obtain free rotation on the wire.
The backplate was drilled with a #43 (2.261 mm) drill bit, also in the drill press.
This provides for a 0.12 mm interference fit of the pin in the backplate. and appears to work out fine (I had done preliminary tests with a broken nylon prop).
The pin was cut to a 12.5 mm length and both ends slightly chamfered with the Dremel, then gently radiused / polished with fine emery paper.
Then the pin was pressed into the backplate with the trusty old vice between to protective pieces of hardwood. Et voilŕ !
(As a note, the pin in the Racer engine shown is a larger diameter and a press fit in the rotary valve, not the backplate)
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