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Old Dec 04, 2014, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Propretor View Post
To be clear, I drew a question:
Not sure in the scenario on the drawing, but when input is connected to another battery Ux can be both lower and higher than, Vbatt as needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Pitman View Post
I will just do them 1 or 2 at a time from now on, even though the 306B said it can discharge at 30amps, I think maybe the thermal fan switch gets swamped...in my charger anyway.
Unless you use regenerative discharge, discharge is limited to 80W (6-8A for 3S).
You can lower this limit in the settings menu if it gets too hot.

Fred
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Old Dec 04, 2014, 10:46 AM
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And did you the rubber feet mounted on the buttom?

If you want to discharge at higher currents and rest the charger, you can use the external discharge mode DCHG+ by using an external resistor or light bulbs.
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Old Dec 04, 2014, 01:01 PM
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If you want to avoid heating your charger at all, you can also use this. $16, a standalone device that automatically stops at the target voltage you set, providing a 4A discharge into light bulbs. 4A is good for 100W if doing 6S.

http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-3in1-bat...ng-p-4767.html

Reviewed here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post29147812

Simple, plug-and-play.

I found the external, Discharge+ method to be cumbersome to set up and use, on my 106B+. Despite using the setup spreadsheet in this thread to build my load, the actual discharge current ended up outside the safe/recommended range.

I ended up simply connecting resistors directly to the main leads of the pack(s). And left the balance lead connected to the charger, with the charger in Monitor mode. It would beep when a cell hit my target voltage, and I'd manually disconnect the resistors. My resistors setup would do about 300W, 12A, on 6S.
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Old Dec 04, 2014, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLMcc View Post
To check the internal temp, hold down the start button while it is running the cycle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Whether charging or discharging, just obey your board's current limits, and you should be fine.

Dave Pitman, agreed that checking the temp during the discharge process would be a good idea. Pulling the charger's log, or recording a log with Logview during the process, would help understand the situation.
I just gave it a try, and I am not having any luck switching to the volt-temp window during the running the program.
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Old Dec 04, 2014, 01:49 PM
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As I recall, you press (not hold) the button that is second- from- the- left. The "-" button, I think. May have to hit it a few times to cycle through there different screens.

The manual has more info on moving between screens, in case I said the wrong button.
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Old Dec 04, 2014, 02:19 PM
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Thanks!
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Last edited by Dave Pitman; Dec 04, 2014 at 02:26 PM.
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Old Dec 04, 2014, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
I found the external, Discharge+ method to be cumbersome to set up and use, on my 106B+.
As related to the 106B, i understand your choice. However the 306B, has the threefold discharge power.
Dave Pitman would like to discharge five packs at once. The only thing he need, is a few light bulbs.
Quote:
....the actual discharge current ended up outside the safe/recommended range.
There is a pinch, to help the charger start up.
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Old Dec 04, 2014, 04:07 PM
Well, now that you know ...
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Grafton, Massachusetts, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
If you want to avoid heating your charger at all, you can also use this. $16, a standalone device that automatically stops at the target voltage you set, providing a 4A discharge into light bulbs. 4A is good for 100W if doing 6S.

http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-3in1-bat...ng-p-4767.html

Reviewed here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post29147812

Simple, plug-and-play.
Anyone know anyone stateside selling these? I'd like to buy a few as gifts.
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Old Dec 06, 2014, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by electronic06 View Post
Hi Tenho,

I know I will need SMD specific tools such as de/soldering station and magnifiers to do the job.

Anyway, and I agree with you, success is not guaranteed even if I replace all the components potentially fried ...

However, what I am most interested in at the moment is identifying the components on my PCB that have had their IDs rubbed off by the manufacturer or burnt off.

It is curious what you say regarding the "tweaking" of the PCB. I bought the charger brand new and have not "tweaked" it in any way.

Please do send me the photos of the PCBs you have.

Thanks for your reply and advice.
more photos here https://www.flickr.com/photos/127676594@N07

RB
Hi RB,

this is a top view of an opened iCharger 208B.
Unfortunately I realized that the bottom side of the PCB is with adhesive heat sink which I don't want to remove on my working unit.

Please see if this foto can help you so far, though the interesting side seems to be the bottom of the PCB.

Regards
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Old Dec 08, 2014, 05:01 AM
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Denmark, Aarhus
Joined Jun 2005
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I bought one of the HobbyKing Turnigy Reaktor 2x 300W, which is basicly 2x iCharger 206B in a box, or a 206B DUO.

Problem is, that it does not have the temp and USB connectors. On the board, there is a 3 pin (?) connector where I expected the USB to be.

Does anybody with a 206B have any idea about the pinouts such that I can connect my FTDI cable ? Or as I would probably do, use some arduino cables (male/female) to move the connectors out.

Or can I use a multimeter to find them ? I can probably trace GND. But how can I see what is Tx and Rx ? I guess there is no damage in testing if GND is connected the right way.

edit:
One of the headers is labelled SPI, that is probably what we would use.
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 01:40 PM
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Guatemala, Guate
Joined Jul 2007
308 Posts
icharger 208b balance port problem

Will apreciate your help in trying to fix icharger 208b balance ports problems.

PROBLEM
Balance charge over voltage error when trying to charge a 8s lipo battery.

Researched and entered calibration procedure and found balance port 7 and 8 have a 2 volt difference from real voltage of cells. The adjusting increasing value max out giving a 401 message. So for sure some internal component need to be replaced.

I opened may charger and nothing seems burned but for sure some component is out of tolerance.

I have been really happy with this charger in the last few years and if possible will like to fix it.

So right now works properly only on 6s cell count.

cheers,

Juan
Guatemala
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