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Old Aug 24, 2014, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Cee View Post
When removing bearings an excellent method to get very uniform heat is to simply place the engine into a pan of water at near boiling temperature . Only takes a couple of minutes . No danger of overheating as the water cannot go above 212F .
Now THAT is a great idea!
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King of Plane View Post
For the inner cam bearing take a small nail and grind off most of the head. Leave just a tiny portion of the head to act like a hook.
Thanks for the tool.
If I can get the valves out without screwing up the guides I'll be armed and ready for the cam bearing.

If not, I'll search the classifieds for a running FS-40.
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 01:52 PM
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If the valve stem binds at the very top of the stem it may be slightly peened over from the rocker slapping it. If you have a small fine tooth file it might be worth your time to LIGHTLY file the top edge of the valve stem to remove any bur or peening that might impede the removal of the valve. The valve should push out with little force applied.

Ken
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 02:27 PM
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You're welcome. You are really only trying to overcome the friction of the outer race of the cam bearing / crankcase. With such a tiny bearing there isn't much contact area. You might just be able to hook and pull the bearing without any warming of the crankcase.
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 09:38 PM
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I got the valves out, and with a little decarbonizing with the xacto, alcohol and 400 wet or dry, they're both functioning like new.

Haven't tried to remove the bearings yet as I've already run into another problem...
I got the sleeve out with just a little heat and a brass rod at the bottom, but I can't get that wrist pin to come out thru the hole in the back of the crankcase.

I tried heating the piston, top and bottom and tugging it out with a screw nail.
The screw nail has very sharp threads and will grip well without swelling anything.
The conrod rotates easily on the pin but the pin doesn't rotate in the piston.

I have it soaking in alcohol for the time being....

Nick
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 10:36 PM
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Good luck with that!! I had the same problem. It is a result of the engine running too lean and overheated I believe.
I had to dremel the connecting rod in two. :-(

Keep at it. Since the sleeve is out, perhaps you can push the wrist pin inward and then back it up with your screw. Once it moves back and forth a time or two it might come out.

Others might have a better way to remove a stubborn wrist pin
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Old Aug 25, 2014, 12:16 AM
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yep!
I put two blocks of wood between the piston and the case and tried to knock it forward with a drift punch with no success. It's jammed very solidly.
I'm going to let it soak overnight in 10% nitro fuel and if that doesn't do it I guess I'll just have to look for a new one. (got my heart set on that Taube now)

Cross your fingers!
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Old Aug 25, 2014, 07:36 AM
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I read on a forum somewhere that to remove the inner cam bearing you use some candle wax.

The method is to push pieces of wax through the centre of the bearing & compress the wax using a drift which is a neat fit in the centre of the bearing. Eventually the area behind the bearing fills with wax and being non-compressible the wax will push the bearing out.

Never tried it personally but makes sense to me. - John.
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Old Aug 25, 2014, 12:03 PM
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That's clever!
I've also read of people that drilled 1/32" holes at the top and bottom of the bearing cover or case pocket and tapped it out with a piece of music wire.

Then the controversy would be whether to leave it as is on the theory that the bearing race would seal the holes and other vociferously calling for sealing it with liquid metal of some kind.

I think I would try leaving it as is just to test the theory, but with the ^&*%^&^^%$%$ wrist pin stuck, it's a moot point unless I can find a place to order a wrist pin, conrod and 4 bearings for less than $60.

(What with ASP .52 four stroke selling for $109, over $60 would bother me)

So I go looking for parts.....

Nick
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Old Aug 25, 2014, 12:26 PM
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Update.
Believe it or not, Tower Hobbies carries most of the parts.
I can replace just the conrod and bearings for about $40.

The whole deal hinges on the wrist pin size.

The "Surpass" wrist pin is all that is available and has a different part number than what's listed in my manual. The Piston number is different too and I'm afraid the pin and hole sizes are different from the original.

I'll just have to cut the conrod, drive out the pin and measure it to see if the new pin is the same. If it is. I'm in business, if not I'll just have to keep a lookout at ebay and the classifieds.

Won't need it for a while so if nothing turns up by the time I need it, I'll just get Cleopatra's favorite brand and be done with it.

more later.
Nick
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Old Aug 25, 2014, 01:59 PM
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Once you cut the connecting rod and have the piston, pin and half rod out you will be able to very gently tap out the wrist pin. Once in hand use a piece of oil soaked scotch brite to polish up the pin. Some spray solvent will clean the pin bore on the piston and you will then have a perfect fit again. Ask me how I know LOL

I wouldn't use any sandpaper and water on the wrist pin though. 3m scotchbrite
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Old Aug 25, 2014, 07:32 PM
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Cut the rod, whew! That was tight.
Wrist pin didn't survive getting knocked out, it had (past tense) brass end caps that don't look so good now

The old pin was 20 mm by 5mm. the replacement is 18 x 5 at six bucks it includes 2 Teflon pads.
But all of the needed parts will end up costing 68 and shipping.
don't know about that.
I have time to decide, because the pin won't be available until late Sept.

I'd like to see the old girl run again, but if someone offers up a Surpass that's pretty for $100 or less, I'll jump on it.

(still can't get the cam bearings out but I'm not trying real hard just yet.)

Nick
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Old Aug 26, 2014, 04:04 AM
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Did not read this saga until now. Just send me 25 $ to my PayPal adress and these brandnew FS40 parts are yours...mail included
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Old Aug 26, 2014, 11:57 AM
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Thanks for the offer, but you're a bit too late, I found a replacement engine for $87 that looks like new.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2047589

And the one I was going to rebuild isn't nearly as nice looking.
Nick

PS. I'll still post any vids in case anyone is interested, but may be a while.
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Old Aug 26, 2014, 12:25 PM
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Imagine, I found a vid of the Taube I want to build again.
Here she is at 6 lbs. pulled by OS's first FS-40 four stroke with an 12/6 prop, dropping a one pound parachute.

1988.

Nick

Taube drops chute 1988 (3 min 32 sec)
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Last edited by taildragger1589; Aug 26, 2014 at 12:30 PM.
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