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Old Oct 06, 2014, 03:40 PM
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Oxford, Michigan, United States
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Lightweight finishing for light colors

I'm quite happy with inkjet printed "shoebox" tissue for finishing my Stevens Aero balsa planes if the colors are dark. However, I'm searching for the best way to cover in white or light colors.

My 1911 Caudron is covered in tissue that I printed off white with OK success. I don't care for how the tabbed joints show through. Although they would look better with more sanding to remove the laser burn edges. Any suggestions on how to better hide the joints and tabs?

But white tissue isn't opaque enough to look white. My Sweet Dream is covered in SAs film covering and that has a couple of issues oo. Show through of the joints and tabs again obviously. Plus, look at all the red bleeding through. That's red Sharpie coloring on the back side and edges of the wood before covering. Surprising how mobile the ink is, even showing up on a free surface I guess through handling.

At NEAT, Thayer Syme suggested "chalking the tissue" on the back side after printing. Would that still work with the glue stick application method or would the glue stick push the chalk around too much? Thoughts?

Pete
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 07:25 PM
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West of California Speedway, East of LaLa, North of Disneyland
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I'm wondering if a thinned coat or two on the backside of the tissue would help alleviate the "semi-transparent" effect.

I just finished spraying Primary Blue acrylic paint in two thinned coats onto Depron sample pieces for a separate project, weighed before and after, and I was surprised by the weight gain. I calculated just 0.7 Grains per square inch!!

( There are approx 15 grains in a gram!! )
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 08:11 PM
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I was also thinking about lightly priming the airframe white with thinned dope.
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 10:21 PM
Mark Young
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Joined Jan 2006
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We here at Stevens Aero use Deft, a spray on lacquer, to seal the wood prior to painting and covering. The paint we recommend is Design Master Color Tool. It's a very light weight, quick drying lacquer based paint that can be found at most craft stores. Overspray can be sanded off easily.

Here's a good tutorial on chalking tissue - http://www.easybuiltmodels.com/chalk.htm -

Found this post as well - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=76

For the show models I pre-sand all parts, removing all the laser burn that I can. That really helps keep the tabs from showing through the covering.

Mark
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Last edited by MSYoung; Oct 06, 2014 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Oct 07, 2014, 06:13 AM
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Oxford, Michigan, United States
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Thanks Mark!
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