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Old May 07, 2014, 10:58 PM
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Help!
A simple question

I am currently building a model (first time doing so) and have a small problem...

The brushless motor i am using for it wont work.
It just goes "tick tick tick" but doesn't spin.

I had the same problem with it about a week earlier but it stopped (until now).



Anyone know why this is happening?

Thanks

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Old May 07, 2014, 11:21 PM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1464822
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Old May 07, 2014, 11:47 PM
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First, if the motor doesn't spin when you try to power it up shut down the power right away.. do not keep trying and don't increase the power. If the motor doesn't spin very high amps will flow and will quickly burn out the motor and/or ESC. If you were giving it lots of throttle and repeatedly trying to get it spinning then you might want to give the motor and ESC a 'sniff' and see if there is burned smell, if so it's most likely toast.

The most likely cause of the original problem (especially if the problem is intermittent) is a poor connection in one of the three wires between ESC and motor. This could be due to a bad solder joint, contaminated or loose bullet connector, or sometimes a wire broken internally.

Sometimes you just get an ESC that wont work with a particular motor, or simply a faulty ESC, but as it used to work these things are less likely.
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Old May 08, 2014, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher248 View Post
I am currently building a model (first time doing so) and have a small problem...

The brushless motor i am using for it wont work. It just goes "tick tick tick" but doesn't spin.

I had the same problem with it about a week earlier but it stopped (until now).

Anyone know why this is happening?

Thanks
It might help if we knew what equipment you are using. (motor, ESC, battery, airplane, etc). Links to your equipment are always welcome.

When you say you had the same problem a week ago do you mean that it worked for a while after the first occurrence of the problem?

Is your battery fully charged?

Have you checked the connections between the motor and ESC? A bad connection of a single lead from the ESC to the motor could cause the problem.

Glen
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Old May 08, 2014, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggcrandall1 View Post
It might help if we knew what equipment you are using. (motor, ESC, battery, airplane, etc). Links to your equipment are always welcome.

When you say you had the same problem a week ago do you mean that it worked for a while after the first occurrence of the problem?

Is your battery fully charged?

Have you checked the connections between the motor and ESC? A bad connection of a single lead from the ESC to the motor could cause the problem.

Glen

well i ripped the parts (servos, ESC, motor, ect.) out of my very first model.
I am not too sure about what kind they are because the model i got em from was just some cheapo Spitfire that was bought from Art Tech (i think) and the motor has no specs printed on it either .

And yes it did happen before this but stopped for awhile.

One plug already came off but i soldered it back so i will check the others to make sure they are not bad too.


Thanks for all the help!
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Old May 08, 2014, 04:23 PM
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Oops!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
First, if the motor doesn't spin when you try to power it up shut down the power right away.. do not keep trying and don't increase the power. If the motor doesn't spin very high amps will flow and will quickly burn out the motor and/or ESC. If you were giving it lots of throttle and repeatedly trying to get it spinning then you might want to give the motor and ESC a 'sniff' and see if there is burned smell, if so it's most likely toast.

The most likely cause of the original problem (especially if the problem is intermittent) is a poor connection in one of the three wires between ESC and motor. This could be due to a bad solder joint, contaminated or loose bullet connector, or sometimes a wire broken internally.

Sometimes you just get an ESC that wont work with a particular motor, or simply a faulty ESC, but as it used to work these things are less likely.

That's too bad... I did just about what you said not too.

I wish i knew that earlier. I didn't smell any burnt smell though. hopefully the ESC isn't fried...

I will check the connections now and strip the heat shrinking tubing off.

thank you for the support
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Old May 08, 2014, 05:15 PM
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If you have a multi-meter (Volt, Ohm, ...) you can do a gross check of the motor connections. You should read the same resistance (a couple of Ohms at the most) between all three pairs of leads. If one is high, that's where to look for a bad connection or broken wire. If you have a drill press, you can use it to spin the motor and read the AC voltage from the windings - they should all be about equal.

If you don't have a multi-meter, you can get an adequate one for less than $25 bucks, on line of at Radio Shack. A multi-meter and a Whatt meter ($25-50) are essential tools that should be in every electric flyers tool box.

- Roger
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Old May 08, 2014, 06:46 PM
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Fixed

One of the three plugs must have had a bad connection, or all cause when i striped the heatshrink from the wire they just fell off.

Very bad design in my opinion.
The plug and the wire weren't even soldered together just held together by the heatshrink.

Would the symptoms of only two of the three wires making a connection be not spinning and doing the "tick tick tick" sound? or would it do nothing at all?
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Old May 08, 2014, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher248 View Post
One of the three plugs must have had a bad connection, or all cause when i striped the heatshrink from the wire they just fell off.

Very bad design in my opinion.
The plug and the wire weren't even soldered together just held together by the heatshrink.

Would the symptoms of only two of the three wires making a connection be not spinning and doing the "tick tick tick" sound? or would it do nothing at all?
You have found the problem, you need to solder them on. Be careful not to over
heat the wires going to the motor. A cloths pin will work for a heat sink to block
the heat from the motor.

Remember the first rule of soldering, CLEAN every thing..
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Old May 08, 2014, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimber View Post
You have found the problem, you need to solder them on. Be careful not to over
heat the wires going to the motor. A cloths pin will work for a heat sink to block
the heat from the motor.

Remember the first rule of soldering, CLEAN every thing..
OK thanks!
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Old May 08, 2014, 08:00 PM
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Also, if the leads are simply the winding wires with spaghetti on them, the wires may have varnish on them. If they don't tin easily, carefully scrape the last 1/4" of each wire with some fine sandpaper (I usually use a small piece of 400 folded over) to remove the varnish.

- Roger
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Old May 08, 2014, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnofliwr View Post
Also, if the leads are simply the winding wires with spaghetti on them, the wires may have varnish on them. If they don't tin easily, carefully scrape the last 1/4" of each wire with some fine sandpaper (I usually use a small piece of 400 folded over) to remove the varnish.

- Roger

I read in cmdl's link that he posted above (first post) that you can use aspirin to remove the varnish too. Is that true?


Quote:
You can use the aspirin trick to take the varnish off. Press the wire down on an aspirin tablet and place a hot soldering iron tip on the wire. It will smoke and stink real bad but the varnish will be removed.
Either way it works i guess.


Thank you!
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Old May 09, 2014, 10:49 AM
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I would not use Aspirin, the coating on motor winding wires is a tough varnish. Remove it by scraping with an X-Acto but don't cut into the flimsy wire. Use a dab of rosin paste flux on scraped wire. Use 60/40 tin/lead solder for electronics. tin the wire with a clean soldering iron tip and solder. Put a dab of flux in the bullet connector. Install heat shrink tubing away from soldering heat. Place bullet connector in a hole drilled into a block of wood. Apply heat to the bullet connector with clean soldering iron tip and fill the pot with solder, immediately plunge the tinned wire into molten solder in the pot, remove heat, hold wire steady with pliers or tweezer while solder solidifies. Inspect for smooth solder flow at junction of wire and solder pot on connector. You can remove flux residue with alcohol. Good soldering requires practice, watching solder solidify. Done right it should take no more than one (1) second to avoid damaging motor, etc from soldering heat.
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Old May 09, 2014, 01:07 PM
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Never heard of the Aspirin trick in 50+ years of electronics (although my master plumber father-in-law did teach me the "bread" trick to keep water droplets from flashing to steam and blowing the solder out of joints while you're soldering them). Given that Aspirin is "acetyl salicylic acid", it should work as a mild acid flux, but I doubt it will remove the varnish any better than just using the iron to burn it off - that's going to be a pretty uncontrolled process.

When ever I can, I shy away from using a knife to scrape the varnish off of magnet wire. There is a good chance that you'll nick the wire and make a resulting mechanical stress point, but others have good luck so your mileage may vary. Other than that, +1 on everything E-Challenged said.

- Roger
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