Hi Tom et al,
I've made a video showing fitting a Deal Extreme wide lense to a red lense v2 camera. Because the red lense (B lense) is a little wider you have to virtually remove the front of the case to avoid vignetting even with the 0.67 lense. The fisheye is pretty much unuseable.

It also shows some good detail about reassembling the camera, fitting the board etc. And shows a lense comparison.

Feel free to add it to the FAQ's or elsewhere.

Bob

HD 16 Key Chain Cam v2 Red Lense, or B lense, fitting wide lenses + how to open the case (6 min 48 sec)

I found one of my original posts on focusing, at that time a "Gum Camera".

Wow ! These cameras have improved dramatically since then !

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...s#post14947146

Quote from the original post....

Typical example...
Test reference photo - properties show a size of 423.6KB
Final focus adjutment a size of 493.2KB

Second reference photo 357.5KB
After final focus adjustment 455.9KB

You can see there is quite a difference in file sizes obtained during focus alterations.

If you try it then let us know how you got on.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Can you post a video clip on Vimeo.com, one directly from the camera with no editing, and paste the URL address here so we can have a look??

Well I dont have any records as I deleted them and its dark here, there are the youtube one that I had uploaded yesterday for testing :

MINI0001 (0 min 21 sec)

Ill try a new record tonight when Ill come back.
:P

Edit: No school alert for today \o/ Ill post a vid from the website you mentioned when the sun get up
I looked to be sure that its a #16. There are a little sticker on the side wich is wrothe "#16" and i see the red lens in the lens D. Look like the quality is from something i do wrong :P

Originally Posted by 679alex

Well I dont have any records as I deleted them and its dark here, there are the youtube one that I had uploaded yesterday for testing :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM6-7...ature=youtu.be

Ill try a new record tonight when Ill come back.
:P

Edit: No school alert for today \o/ Ill post a vid from the website you mentioned when the sun get up
I looked to be sure that its a #16. There are a little sticker on the side wich is wrothe "#16" and i see the red lens in the lens D. Look like the quality is from something i do wrong :P

The file name and timestamp, from what is visible, seems to confirm that your camera is indeed a #16. If your PC runs Windows, I suggest you run the GUI and click the "Set Default Values" button and save the configuration file.
Maybe your current settings have become messed up.
If that doesn't work, try and update the firmware with the AVI version, or the MOV version if you already have the AVI version installed. The update should erase any mixed up parameters. A similar problem existed on the #11 when the firmware, or was it the bootloader?, was downgraded.

MINI0002 (0 min 21 sec)

Now works !

Thanks =DDD

Originally Posted by 679alex

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWmiL...ature=youtu.be

Now works !

Thanks =DDD

Great, but what exactly did you do to fix it (out of the list of suggestions)
Mike

Originally Posted by 679alex

Well I dont have any records as I deleted them and its dark here, there are the youtube one that I had uploaded yesterday for testing :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM6-7...ature=youtu.be

Ill try a new record tonight when Ill come back.
:P

Edit: No school alert for today \o/ Ill post a vid from the website you mentioned when the sun get up
I looked to be sure that its a #16. There are a little sticker on the side wich is wrothe "#16" and i see the red lens in the lens D. Look like the quality is from something i do wrong :P

I can't tell anything from a Youtube video... who knows what their re-encoding does to a clip. I need a video directly from the camera, and if you post one to Vimeo, I can download the original with the first week or two before they remove it. Maybe when you post the link to the video here you can also paste a copy of the camera config file in your post so we can see what settings you have in the camera. With camera turn off, press AND HOLD the shutter button then press AND HOLD the power button for about 10 seconds until all LED activity stops. You memory card will then have the camera config .txt file on it.

<EDIT> I should have read all the posts first... looks like you fixed the problem and we may never know what was causing it. So, no need to do all the posting above. </EDIT>

Can anyone tell me what the file size or bit rate is at 5fps setting? Just wondering if it is much lower, good for a security cam. Thanks!

I made "autopower on" MOD to my camera.
(so it will start everytime charger is powered)

Its not perfect, as I found it later but its close. (and work in my situation)


A and X are normally connected when you push power button.
X is around +1.8 volts and A is the actual power signal to the processor.
(I think processor is in "dead" state so its need some volts to get "ignite")


So, I just connected USB and searched by random any good volts.
I find out B will give me around +1 volt so this is my try.
(I find it later, it was not solid, discuss below)

So all I need to do is connect B and A with wire and my MOD is ready.
It was much harder than it seem cause circuitboard is soo small.

My job: (its not nice, tape is only to keep it in place until case)



But my MOD works.
Connecting B and A means it will kind of push and keep power button down whole time USB is connected. And its ok.
But you cant switch to picture mode example. (if you dont unplug)
My camera will record until battery runs out and then it will safely shut down.

When I tested my camera further, I noticed it did not start always.
After exploration I find out that X is most likely charging power to battery.
It will drop to 0.5 volts when battery is full and 0.5 volt is not enough to start.

So my camera start everytime expect when battery is full. (for me, this is ok cause its always empty)

If you want to do this, you should also think "loading LED" X. It will give (if i remeber correct) +2.8volts. And green led is always on when USB connected.

Of course +5 volts would be easy to connect but how much power you can put to startup signal without breaking it? I dont know specs.

Remember, its possible to break your camera easily with this.

Originally Posted by sparklet

I found one of my original posts on focusing, at that time a "Gum Camera".

Wow ! These cameras have improved dramatically since then !

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...s#post14947146

Quote from the original post....

Typical example...
Test reference photo - properties show a size of 423.6KB
Final focus adjutment a size of 493.2KB

Second reference photo 357.5KB
After final focus adjustment 455.9KB

You can see there is quite a difference in file sizes obtained during focus alterations.

If you try it then let us know how you got on.

Used above ^ method for focusing the camera,happy with the results,thanks for sharing that method.


Before trying the picture file size focus method i had just recorded video,viewed the video and made small adjustments to the lens and repeated till the video looked good.
Recording,checking,adjusting works but takes some time and you don't really have a way to actually know if the image is improving besides your eyes.
Taking a photo in the same location with the same lighting for each photo does give you the file size which enables you to get the lens focused more quickly and accurately than viewing alone.

This method works so well that you don't even need to actually view the image while conducting the focus process!

As i said the video focus was looking pretty good from taking video ,check it ect.
So decided to do the focus method based of the photo file size blind...take a photo and only noting the file size without viewing the image.
First photo...benchmark...second photo turn lens,file size decrease....third photo (turn lens back past benchmark spot file size increase.....forth photo,turn lens further from benchmark, file size decrease...fifth photo turn lens back toward benchmark,file size increase 50 over benchmark file size and left it there.

Now time to view the images and see how this blind test worked out.
They looked good and the last image was most clear.
Step outside to record a test video,come back in and view the video.
Video looks good and image is in focus better than it had been with using the record video,check,adjust lens repeat method.


If your needing to focus your camera try the photo file size comparison method,definitely gives very good results,recommend this method for anyone who needs to focus your camera.











Note:...if your concerned about the camera not being in the exact position each time you can secure the camera in position for taking photos and only remove the memory card to place in a card reader to note file size.
I did not do that but figured it is a good suggestion for those who may have trouble being sure the camera is in the exact same position for each photo.

Originally Posted by bobflyman

Hi Tom et al,
I've made a video showing fitting a Deal Extreme wide lense to a red lense v2 camera. Because the red lense (B lense) is a little wider you have to virtually remove the front of the case to avoid vignetting even with the 0.67 lense. The fisheye is pretty much unuseable.

It also shows some good detail about reassembling the camera, fitting the board etc. And shows a lense comparison.
...

Thanks for posting. Have you compared the deal extreme 0.67 with the #16 Lens D that fits the camera directly? I've seen separate videos from each, but don't recall seeing any side-by-side shooting the same scenes. From looking at separate vids, the D Lens looks to be as good if not better, and certainly much easier to add.

Well done ridgewalker.

Very pleased to see you got good results.

I posted comparison videos from before and after focusing at the time I did it.

People online were impressed by the clearly visible improvement. Unfortunately I scrapped the videos later. Several people were going to give it a try.

My new #16 camera looks fairly well focused but I haven't really had the weather to give it much of a go yet.

Originally Posted by ridgewalker

Used above ^ method for focusing the camera,happy with the results,thanks for sharing that method.
...
This method works so well that you don't even need to actually view the image while conducting the focus process!

As i said the video focus was looking pretty good from taking video ,check it ect.
So decided to do the focus method based of the photo file size blind...take a photo and only noting the file size without viewing the image.
First photo...benchmark...second photo turn lens,file size decrease....third photo (turn lens back past benchmark spot file size increase.....forth photo,turn lens further from benchmark, file size decrease...fifth photo turn lens back toward benchmark,file size increase 50 over benchmark file size and left it there.

Now time to view the images and see how this blind test worked out.
They looked good and the last image was most clear.
Step outside to record a test video,come back in and view the video.
Video looks good and image is in focus better than it had been with using the record video,check,adjust lens repeat method.

If your needing to focus your camera try the photo file size comparison method,definitely gives very good results,recommend this method for anyone who needs to focus your camera.
...

I just ran my own test, because I wanted to test how easy the time lapse photo method would be (I set for 5 sec. intervals). In between each photo I turned the lens very slightly, maybe 1-2 deg, holding the case in position as best I could. This gave a very quick sequence of photos with pretty much the same scene (the new flat-bottom case really helped with this). My goal was not to set the lens to it's best position, but to see how close the files size method was to what my eye considered best. I used a lens that was being considered for the D lens... similar AOV but with some out of focus at the edges (typical with these inexpensive lenses with wide AOV).

My conclusion... the file size will get you VERY close, but not necessarily the best if measured by your eye. This was an acid test because the lens focal plane is not flat like the CMOS is. So the center focus is slightly different from the edge focus, and this led to a false positive on the file size method giving the "best" focus compared to what my eye determine was better across the entire frame.

YMMV, and for many people who aren't overly concerned if the focus is dead on, the file size method will get you VERY close if you can zero in on it.

FWIW, I have attached the photo sequences from my test... one distant and one fairly close up. I would use the photo method again to zero in on the near-best lens position, but would shoot additional photos to zero in to dead on as determined by my eye, with a method to identified what rotation of the lens was for each photo (e.g. some tape on the lens housing and lens barrel).

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

FWIW, I have attached the photo sequences from my test... one distant and one fairly close up. I would use the photo method again to zero in on the near-best lens position, but would shoot additional photos to zero in to dead on as determined by my eye, with a method to identified what rotation of the lens was for each photo (e.g. some tap on the lens housing and lens barrel.

Wow, thanks for that test Tom, very impressive, to my eye the largest file size of both views do definitely look best.

Thank you Sparklet, it's a great method.

Hello

THE Tuesday, January 29, 2013, _ It is said in a statement yesterday that the LTU (International Union of Telecommunications)announced the adoption of the new members parses video compression standard H.265 (HEVC).W: With a compression ratio of 60% to 70% more efficient than the H.264 standard (standard 80% ofIe videos on web according LTU) HEVC will allow first relieve networks.<This new codec will considérabiement aiiéger ia charge of global networks oi) Seion some estimates,ies comptent pour pius videos of Ia Ia half bandwidth, "says I'lTU.With such performance, a quality equal, a video encoded in H.265 (HEVC) will see its weight divided by two ... andhas equal weight, the quality will be far superior! Although rapid adoption of this compression formatis a certainty as high needs (bandwidth economy, VoD, IPTV, 3D Ultra HDetc.), it will take months to see the equipment appear compatible

Question : Is the manufacturer able to run the 808 # 16 with the H265 codec????
thank you
@+++