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Old Jul 06, 2012, 08:57 AM
Registered User
United States, NJ, Roseland
Joined Apr 2009
2,204 Posts
yeah the orig. one was terrible at color shifting and brightness control. also vignetting on the orig. 808 #11 V1. This cam is MUCH more usable and the quality for the size and weight is fantastic. WAY better choice than the go pro heavy camera, at least for RC aerial work....
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 09:19 AM
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victapilot's Avatar
Sunny (mostly) SC, home of the Joe Nall
Joined Feb 2009
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I did notice that vignetting is negligible if any, for your cam. Mine was greatly improved with the 120 lens.

I'd say you have a winner!!
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 09:06 AM
Registered User
United States, NJ, Roseland
Joined Apr 2009
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What id really like is to somehow put that lens on the orig. 808# 11. It's smaller and more compact and the buttons aren't accidentally pushed as much.......
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 10:10 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
Sunny (mostly) SC, home of the Joe Nall
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hidaven View Post
What id really like is to somehow put that lens on the orig. 808# 11. It's smaller and more compact and the buttons aren't accidentally pushed as much.......
I would leave it as is, but if its a 7mm lens barrel it could be a simple screw in replacement, as with mine. Mine is 18g so can go almost anywhere. The focus needs a tweak, the grass is clear at the end in this vid from yesterday.

#11 on Ace High (2 min 57 sec)
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 02:00 PM
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Sparky Paul's Avatar
Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
13,206 Posts
My HK A-Cam on the handlebar this a.m.
Good image all over.
Really blue sky!
I only that blue at the edges of the #16 cameras.
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 02:59 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
Sunny (mostly) SC, home of the Joe Nall
Joined Feb 2009
4,230 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
My HK A-Cam on the handlebar this a.m.
Good image all over.
Really blue sky!
I only that blue at the edges of the #16 cameras.
That's the lens I'm using in my #11. It seems slightly wider AOV than the new jumbo. I'd still go wth the jumbo if I was to do over.
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Last edited by victapilot; Jul 07, 2012 at 03:49 PM.
Old Jul 09, 2012, 02:50 AM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Como
Joined Aug 2010
2,212 Posts
Hiya

I bought an #11 about a year ago and got frustrated with it so put it aside to focus on other things.
Recently I got it back out and decided to have a go fixing "the problem."

That being converting, saving, and playing back the file.

The files run fine in quicktime and WMM but when I save them they play back all pixelated and with pink blotches everywhere. Frame rate is rather stilted too.

My system is Window 7 and I have the latest update of Windows Essentials.

I have tried converting them to AVI files but get a similar result.

I'm sure there is something obvious that I am missing, but I have been through all the advice at the start of this thread and can't see where I might be going wrong.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 05:22 AM
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Joined Mar 2012
16 Posts
Hi all,

has anyone ever tried to use the Action cam holder from PED-Products with an 808 #16 cam and mount additionally an Deal extreme 0,67 wide angle lens?
If you just stick the lens in front of the Action cam holder the small inner diameter of the wide angle lens will already create dark areas on your video screen.

Regards
Guenther


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
This mount was briefly mentioned in a few user posts a while back, and I recently obtained one with multiple base attachments and have a few observations that are not obvious in the product web pages here:
  • First, this is no hastily concocted flimsy plastic mount! The plastic is thick and appears very durable with some nice design features.
  • There are SIX points of support for the camera case!
    • Two rubber "bumpers" at the front
    • Two soft rubber pads on the bottom (front and back)
    • One machine screw stud (rubber-clad) at the rear
    • One latch at the aft end
    In short, the camera is held VERY secure when snapped into place, and will not vibrate or move around in the mount (see photos 1 & 2).
  • The camera appears to be angled slightly and off center at the rear when latched in the mount... and it is, but apparently for good reason! The camera case has a curved front with the lens offset to one side and fitted flush (normally) with the curve of the case. This angles the lens view slightly left of where the camera case centerline is pointing. This mount locates the aft end of the camera slightly off center, via the machine screw stud, which apparently put the lens view axis back parallel with the axis of the camera mount! So when the mount is "aimed" where you want it, the camera will be also! The machine screw stud is located in a slotted hole, so it can be moved slightly to precisely align a given camera if the lens is slightly canted inside the camera case. Neat! (see photos 2 & 3)
  • The camera is located recessed back in the mount frame (see photo 3). My concern that the mount opening might obstruct the #11HD wide field of view were unfounded. The recessed lens location makes the case act as an effective lens shield, preventing unwanted light outside the field of view from striking the lens when shooting near the sun, minimizing lens flare and washout! This also allows space to adhere a small glass lens cover inside the mount frame if desired to keep dirt, water splashes, etc. from hitting the lens. And if the rest of the camera case were wrapped in a layer of plastic sandwich wrap, the whole camera would be pretty resistent to rain or other water splashes. But PED is developing a shield specifically for these purposes, so there should soon be another better solution.
  • I found the "V-bottom" axial rail built into the bottom of the main mount bracket (see photo 3) to seat very firmly on the bill of a ball cap, either on the top or the bottom, secured with a screw into the bill of the cap, making a secure CapCam mount which stays in alignment.
  • Finally, I discovered an inherent risk with some cameras if the user is not careful when inserting the camera into the mount. When my flash card is latched in my camera, the corners of the flash card slightly protrude outside the case of the camera, and the card slot is in close proximity to the mount frame when inserted (see photo 4). As I was pushing my camera into the front of the mount, I unknowingly pushed the corner of the flash card, causing it to unlatch from it's holder and interfere with the mount frame when I was trying to latch the aft end of the camera into the mount. Everything... camera, flash card, and mount are about the same black color, so I did not see the problem when the camera would not snap into position in the mount. And not knowing the first time how much force it should take to seat the camera in the mount, I pushed a bit harder. The camera then snapped into position, but I didn't like the "snap sound"... thought I had broken the mount latch. A close look confirmed the mount latch is designed to deflect sufficiently for the camera to be seated without over-stressing the plastic, so it was then I discovered what you have already guessed... I broke the flash card! (see photo 5) This was user error, not a design problem with the camera or the mount, but one that deserves an alert here if anyone uses one of these mounts.
If you have a need to move/mount this camera on different types of equipment, the multiple securement method options of this package is a good way to do it while getting the same camera alignment every time you move it.
<Edit 4/26/2012> A slip on weather cover with replaceable lens windows is now available. It covers the top and sides of the entire camera and the holder (photos 6 and 7). While this does not protect the camera if it is fully submerged in water, it is well designed to protect it from rain, splashes, etc. that could occur in above ground use.

The vendor has also announced he is now a re-seller of the #16 HD keychain camera (reportedly obtained from one of the verified Ebay sellers [eletoponline365]. This gives a North America source for the camera (with re-seller markup) if buying from China via Ebay is a concern.

A 25% discount for RC Groups members was also announced by the vendor. Enter "PED-RC" (without the quotes) in the discount code box when you check out to get the discount.
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Last edited by Unicross71; Jul 13, 2012 at 03:59 AM.
Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:48 AM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
3,837 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by brett.c View Post
Hiya

I bought an #11 about a year ago and got frustrated with it so put it aside to focus on other things.
Recently I got it back out and decided to have a go fixing "the problem."

That being converting, saving, and playing back the file.

The files run fine in quicktime and WMM but when I save them they play back all pixelated and with pink blotches everywhere. Frame rate is rather stilted too.

My system is Window 7 and I have the latest update of Windows Essentials.

I have tried converting them to AVI files but get a similar result.

I'm sure there is something obvious that I am missing, but I have been through all the advice at the start of this thread and can't see where I might be going wrong.
First Standard Answer is to ask you to download and try the Freeware VLC media viewer - It is known to display most files on most machines, even when the local OS provided programs don't.
let us know how this gets on with your files straight off the camera, and on the ouput of your editor(s). - short sample videos help a lot in diagnosise.
Mike
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 08:43 AM
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timetec's Avatar
United Kingdom
Joined Aug 2010
71 Posts
Put an end to intermitent 'buzzing' sound and/or video artifacts on #11 cameras

Hi everyone - It's been a good while since I last posted, so I thought I'd share a mod that will eliminate the annoying 'buzzing' sound and/or video artifacts, as the battery starts to run down on your #11 camera. This issue was addressed of course with the launch of the #16, but to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, still remains a problem with #11.

As a bonus to this relatively simple fix, your battery life should be extended by around 15% (in tests), adding 6 minutes or so to your current recording time using a good 250mAh LiPo cell
The cause of these sound and video issues centres around the stock 3.3V voltage regulator fitted on the front (USB socket side) of the PCB. The IC is a 5-pin SOT-25 device marked 4A2* - the * is the batch code and will be a letter such as B D or C etc. The regulator fitted is a TOREX XC6204332 - datasheet HERE

Technical stuff :

There are two major problems with this factory fitted regulator : 1/ It has a maximum current rating of 150ma, but typically the device has to deliver over 100ma continuously and subsequently gets hot, wasting precious power. 2/ It has a high dropout voltage of 200mv (0.2V) rising to over 300mv at 100ma - this has a marked effect on the available recording time of the camera.

The replacement, a Texas Instruments TPS73633DBVT - datasheet HERE has a rated output current of 400ma, limited at 800ma. As a result it runs cool, disipating very little power.
In contrast, the dropout voltage of the TI regulator is specified at 75mv. However in practise it's much lower than this - I measured a miniscule dropout of just 26mv with a 100ma load.
The NMOS output stage and clever high frequency 4Mhz charge-pump make it a very efficient, low noise and reliable replacement for the original regulator.

I can't recommend this modification highly enough and at a cost of around 65 pence / $1 excluding shipping, makes it a very worthwhile and satifying mod. You may even be able to get a free sample from the TI website.
Yes, the regulator can be a bit fiddly to swap out if you're not used to handling surface mount devices, but after disconnecting the battery you can wrap the whole PCB in tin foil, neatly cutting out a small square hole where the regulator is. This will prevent solder splashes getting onto the PCB, as well as acting as a perfect anti-static sheild for the board. By far the easiest way to remove the IC, is to surround it in flux paste and heat the plastic package directly until the solder on all five legs melts. It can then be gently lifted off the board with a pair of fine-tipped tweezers.

You will notice from the TOREX datasheet that pin 4 is not used - NC (no connection), while the TI device uses this pin for a noise reduction capacitor (NR).
It appears that the the camera manufacturers decided to fit a 10nf capacitor to the PCB to cover all eventualities when sourcing 'equivalent' components.
If required, the value of this capacitor, circled in yellow on the third photo, can be increased in value from 10nf to 100nf to acheive a noise level of below 30 microvolts using the TI device specified here.

Have fun - Richard
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Last edited by timetec; Jul 10, 2012 at 10:38 AM.
Old Jul 10, 2012, 11:42 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
2,349 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by timetec View Post
Hi everyone - It's been a good while since I last posted, so I thought I'd share a mod that will eliminate the annoying 'buzzing' sound and/or video artifacts, as the battery starts to run down on your #11 camera. This issue was addressed of course with the launch of the #16, but to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, still remains a problem with #11.

As a bonus to this relatively simple fix, your battery life should be extended by around 15% (in tests), adding 6 minutes or so to your current recording time using a good 250mAh LiPo cell
The cause of these sound and video issues centres around the stock 3.3V voltage regulator fitted on the front (USB socket side) of the PCB. The IC is a 5-pin SOT-25 device marked 4A2* - the * is the batch code and will be a letter such as B D or C etc. The regulator fitted is a TOREX XC6204332 - datasheet HERE

Technical stuff :

There are two major problems with this factory fitted regulator : 1/ It has a maximum current rating of 150ma, but typically the device has to deliver over 100ma continuously and subsequently gets hot, wasting precious power. 2/ It has a high dropout voltage of 200mv (0.2V) rising to over 300mv at 100ma - this has a marked effect on the available recording time of the camera.

The replacement, a Texas Instruments TPS73633DBVT - datasheet HERE has a rated output current of 400ma, limited at 800ma. As a result it runs cool, disipating very little power.
In contrast, the dropout voltage of the TI regulator is specified at 75mv. However in practise it's much lower than this - I measured a miniscule dropout of just 26mv with a 100ma load.
The NMOS output stage and clever high frequency 4Mhz charge-pump make it a very efficient, low noise and reliable replacement for the original regulator.

I can't recommend this modification highly enough and at a cost of around 65 pence / $1 excluding shipping, makes it a very worthwhile and satifying mod. You may even be able to get a free sample from the TI website.
Yes, the regulator can be a bit fiddly to swap out if you're not used to handling surface mount devices, but after disconnecting the battery you can wrap the whole PCB in tin foil, neatly cutting out a small square hole where the regulator is. This will prevent solder splashes getting onto the PCB, as well as acting as a perfect anti-static sheild for the board. By far the easiest way to remove the IC, is to surround it in flux paste and heat the plastic package directly until the solder on all five legs melts. It can then be gently lifted off the board with a pair of fine-tipped tweezers.

You will notice from the TOREX datasheet that pin 4 is not used - NC (no connection), while the TI device uses this pin for a noise reduction capacitor (NR).
It appears that the the camera manufacturers decided to fit a 10nf capacitor to the PCB to cover all eventualities when sourcing 'equivalent' components.
If required, the value of this capacitor, circled in yellow on the third photo, can be increased in value from 10nf to 100nf to acheive a noise level of below 30 microvolts using the TI device specified here.

Have fun - Richard
Although I've completely moved over to the #16 league, I still have a few old #11s which I use.

I get real pleasure from reading your hardware hacks and want to thank you for your excellent, well written, articles. Last year one of my #11s started acting up when the ambient temperature rose above 32C (90F), so replacing the regulator may help a bit, we'll see.

You have done some really great detective work, and so well explained. Thank you so much.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:25 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
16,606 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
...
I get real pleasure from reading your hardware hacks and want to thank you for your excellent, well written, articles.
...
You have done some really great detective work, and so well explained. Thank you so much.
And deserving of immortalization in the Frankencam "Hacks" post. - DONE!
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 06:52 AM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Como
Joined Aug 2010
2,212 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
First Standard Answer is to ask you to download and try the Freeware VLC media viewer - It is known to display most files on most machines, even when the local OS provided programs don't.
let us know how this gets on with your files straight off the camera, and on the ouput of your editor(s). - short sample videos help a lot in diagnosise.
Mike
Thanks Mike
I downloaded VLC and it played my #11 files just fine. So does Windows Movie Maker.
Problem is when I try to save them, they all seem to be corrupted.
I've tried converting them to all sorts of formats with the same results.
I will try it on another PC.

Brett.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 07:21 AM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
3,837 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by brett.c View Post
Thanks Mike
I downloaded VLC and it played my #11 files just fine. So does Windows Movie Maker.
Problem is when I try to save them, they all seem to be corrupted.
I've tried converting them to all sorts of formats with the same results.
I will try it on another PC.

Brett.
Just to make sure we are "reading the same page", I think you are saying that the display for files READ DIRECTLY FROM THE CAMERA is OK, but if you copy a file from the camera to your hard drive, then the file becomes corrupted.
Is that correct, or am I reading too much into what you have written?
( the symptoms are, to say the least, very strange).
Let us know how using another computer works...
Mike
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Last edited by empeabee; Jul 11, 2012 at 07:23 AM. Reason: clarification
Old Jul 12, 2012, 03:44 PM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2012
64 Posts
wall charger

Is it possible to charge the keychain cameras (#11, #11 jumbo, #16 and #18) using a USB wall charger?
There are USB wall chargers, but I am not use if I can use them for my cameras.
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