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Old Nov 10, 2015, 08:22 PM
Yeti Hughes is offline
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E-Flite Blade CX2 Shaking Problem

Hello! First post here on the forums! A little background, about 5 years ago I purchased an Efltie Blade CP+ which I flew for a while before giving up on the hobby. Recently, I've purchased both a Used Eflite Blade CX2 and a New Eflite Blade CP S (Which is, oddly enough, much easier for me to fly).

Anyways, I recently crashed my Eflite Blade CX2. No big deal, right? Well, I noticed shaking. I have since replaced the inner shaft, outter shaft, and flybar in order to hopefully fix this problem. It still exists. I'm not sure what's causing it. I spent at least 6 Hours attempting to install parts and fix this issue to no avail. I will link below a YouTube video of it's poor flight quality.
Blade CX2 Flight Issues (0 min 13 sec)
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Old Nov 11, 2015, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Yeti Hughes View Post
Anyways, I recently crashed my Eflite Blade CX2. No big deal, right? Well, I noticed shaking. I have since replaced the inner shaft, outter shaft, and flybar in order to hopefully fix this problem. It still exists. I'm not sure what's causing it. I spent at least 6 Hours attempting to install parts and fix this issue to no avail. I will link below a YouTube video of it's poor flight quality.

It looks like a gyro problem.

Maybe the gyro went loose on the frame when you crashed it. You need to secure it to the frame and between the frame and gyro, put some some folded tissue paper to minimize vibration reaching the gyro.

Or somehow, the gyro sensitivity went to overdrive when you crashed it. You need to lower the sensitivity through the pot adjustment.
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Old Nov 11, 2015, 01:36 PM
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It looks like a gyro problem.

Maybe the gyro went loose on the frame when you crashed it. You need to secure it to the frame and between the frame and gyro, put some some folded tissue paper to minimize vibration reaching the gyro.

Or somehow, the gyro sensitivity went to overdrive when you crashed it. You need to lower the sensitivity through the pot adjustment.
Thanks! I've stopped the shaking! The sensitivity was crazy high. Upon fixing this issue, I still have a very difficult time keeping this bird stable. As soon as I begin to increase throttle, it begins to spin clockwise. Then, as soon as I get in the air, it begins to rotate counter-clockwise (except much worse). I've tried adjusting the Proportional Pot, but even completely turned it still spins fairly bad. In addition to all that (Or, perhaps, because of that) its flying in cirlcles. It just seems that no matter what adjusment I make to the trim, 3-in-1, or swashplate it continues to fly erraritcally.
If another video is needed I can attempt to take one. I can really only safely fly for 4-5 seconds before going too far out of control. It's funny, this CX2 is really giving me a much harder time than even my Blade CP+ I previously owned.
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Old Nov 11, 2015, 02:06 PM
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Thanks! I've stopped the shaking! The sensitivity was crazy high. Upon fixing this issue, I still have a very difficult time keeping this bird stable. As soon as I begin to increase throttle, it begins to spin clockwise. Then, as soon as I get in the air, it begins to rotate counter-clockwise (except much worse). I've tried adjusting the Proportional Pot, but even completely turned it still spins fairly bad. In addition to all that (Or, perhaps, because of that) its flying in cirlcles. It just seems that no matter what adjusment I make to the trim, 3-in-1, or swashplate it continues to fly erraritcally.
If another video is needed I can attempt to take one. I can really only safely fly for 4-5 seconds before going too far out of control. It's funny, this CX2 is really giving me a much harder time than even my Blade CP+ I previously owned.

Your welcome!

Probably a bad gyro.... Despite what you hear about these solid-state gyros being "unbreakable". They do break. Inside the metal cap of these tiny gyros are a curious arrangement of metal and crystals that are very fragile that's why there's a cap.

I have ruined one of those when I put the frame against a wheel grinder with RX on the frame, bad move! And then I ruined another gyro on a different heli in a crash.

Some you could crash a hundred times and still work. But some will stop working in the first crash. The quality of these things can vary immensely.

One more thing you can do is increase sensitivity a bit, eliminate all sources of vibration in the heli, and make sure the vibration from the frame is reduced to the gyro by putting some soft material between the frame and the gyro or between the RX and the frame if the gyro is mounted on the RX.


This is one reason I still have doubts about the FBL things. Even just one gyro ruined on those things will render them unflyable and there's usually three... Three times higher chances of ruining!
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Old Nov 11, 2015, 04:00 PM
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Your welcome!

Probably a bad gyro.... Despite what you hear about these solid-state gyros being "unbreakable". They do break. Inside the metal cap of these tiny gyros are a curious arrangement of metal and crystals that are very fragile that's why there's a cap.

I have ruined one of those when I put the frame against a wheel grinder with RX on the frame, bad move! And then I ruined another gyro on a different heli in a crash.

Some you could crash a hundred times and still work. But some will stop working in the first crash. The quality of these things can vary immensely.

One more thing you can do is increase sensitivity a bit, eliminate all sources of vibration in the heli, and make sure the vibration from the frame is reduced to the gyro by putting some soft material between the frame and the gyro or between the RX and the frame if the gyro is mounted on the RX.


This is one reason I still have doubts about the FBL things. Even just one gyro ruined on those things will render them unflyable and there's usually three... Three times higher chances of ruining!
Oddly, the Alumnium Hub at the top still wobbles as if the inner shaft is still bent - making the whole thing vibrate a bit. Yet, I just swapped it out. I've adjusted sensitivity in many different positions to no avail.

Over the last few hours I've finally gotten it to hover for a good 10 seconds, but it still manages to dive into a forward/backwards spiral. I'll add some tissue to the heli, and I'll upload another video tonight to see if someone can point out any problems - aside from a possible Gyro Failure.

I have this STRONG urge that I've just pieced something together wrong, making it fly this way (Particularly because of the light vibration). I have never replaced inner/outer shafts on any heli until now. I did follow a tutorial, but who knows if I did it 100% correctly. Thanks Again.
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Old Nov 11, 2015, 06:50 PM
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Did you get your A and B blades on right as in top and bottom . The blades should have some free swing in grips not to tight . The flybar should bounce up and down freely no binding at all . There is a good CX2 ,CX3 thread lots of good info there .
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Old Nov 11, 2015, 11:00 PM
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Oddly, the Alumnium Hub at the top still wobbles as if the inner shaft is still bent - making the whole thing vibrate a bit. Yet, I just swapped it out. I've adjusted sensitivity in many different positions to no avail.
You may have a blade-tracking issue at the hub especially if one blade is always tracking higher than the other blade.

This is easily solved by making one of the dog bone links of the flybar shorter and the other longer or vice versa. The correct adjustment is achieved through trial and error but make sure the adjustment does not lead to binding. The flybar must always be able to swing very freely all the time.

Too much slack (too much free play) on the flybar could also cause the top rotor to wobble randomly and cause vibration.

Too much slack between the inner and outer shaft could also cause it.


Quote:
I have this STRONG urge that I've just pieced something together wrong, making it fly this way (Particularly because of the light vibration). I have never replaced inner/outer shafts on any heli until now. I did follow a tutorial, but who knows if I did it 100% correctly. Thanks Again.
Light vibration should not confuse a good gyro, unless the gyro or the RX (if gyro is on th RX) is loosely attached on the frame.
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Old Nov 12, 2015, 02:43 PM
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You may have a blade-tracking issue at the hub especially if one blade is always tracking higher than the other blade.

This is easily solved by making one of the dog bone links of the flybar shorter and the other longer or vice versa. The correct adjustment is achieved through trial and error but make sure the adjustment does not lead to binding. The flybar must always be able to swing very freely all the time.

Too much slack (too much free play) on the flybar could also cause the top rotor to wobble randomly and cause vibration.

Too much slack between the inner and outer shaft could also cause it.

Light vibration should not confuse a good gyro, unless the gyro or the RX (if gyro is on th RX) is loosely attached on the frame.
I will definitely try to adjust the dog-bone links. I don't believe there is any slack between inner and outer shaft, as far as I'm aware of.

I took it into a local hobby shop today. There were 2 distinct things that he noticed there. A) The heli rotates clockwise, even if the Proportional Trim is set completely counter-clockwise; which he believes is caused by a bad gyro. B) There is a slight vibration, which he believes is caused by a bent frame. He suggested that it's not worth fixing. However, I couldn't live with myself if I purchased a heli to junk it 2 weeks later.

I will attempt your fix, to see if it makes a difference.

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Originally Posted by skyeblu View Post
Did you get your A and B blades on right as in top and bottom . The blades should have some free swing in grips not to tight . The flybar should bounce up and down freely no binding at all . There is a good CX2 ,CX3 thread lots of good info there .
Yeah I checked the blades and they are installed correctly. The blades on this heli sort of snap into place, so I cannot adjust how much they swing. In fact, they don't swing at all. Ill look over the thread, Thank You.
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Old Nov 15, 2015, 02:12 AM
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I will definitely try to adjust the dog-bone links. I don't believe there is any slack between inner and outer shaft, as far as I'm aware of.

I took it into a local hobby shop today. There were 2 distinct things that he noticed there. A) The heli rotates clockwise, even if the Proportional Trim is set completely counter-clockwise; which he believes is caused by a bad gyro. B) There is a slight vibration, which he believes is caused by a bent frame. He suggested that it's not worth fixing. However, I couldn't live with myself if I purchased a heli to junk it 2 weeks later.
In any case, slight vibration should not affect a good gyro.
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Old Nov 16, 2015, 09:05 PM
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Yeah, after reading all of the above, I was also gonna say it sounds like the frame got bent. I have had mine stripped down to the frame a few times and I don't know what else it would be. In my one instance it was easy to spot because I broke off pieces of the frame.
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