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Old Jan 03, 2016, 10:01 AM
limey12 is online now
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United States, FL, Cocoa Beach
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Boom is 558mm
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Old Jan 03, 2016, 02:29 PM
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United Kingdom, Banstead
Joined May 2013
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Nice install , Spose the r/e servos could have gone side by side and the whole thing slid a bit further forward but tbh yours is exactly the same layout as mine.

Rather than nose weight I would have gone for a larger battery.

Let's be honest 260g ain't exactly lardy !!

Or as I'm going to try on my next one, shortening the boom slightly
dave
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Last edited by DizzyDuck; Jan 03, 2016 at 02:35 PM.
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Old Jan 03, 2016, 02:48 PM
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I think you are correct just had something in my mind so gonna fly it anyway. I think shortening the boom is a good idea but not to much ,you and Mickey know what you are doing so I'll wait to see the results of that. Thanks for all your help.
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Old Jan 03, 2016, 02:54 PM
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P.S. Can't wait to come fly with you guys
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Old Jan 06, 2016, 09:53 AM
briano4za is offline
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South Africa, GP, Randburg
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Composites 101

Dumb question I guess but the Rohacell foam core in the wings how is it shaped to go in the mold with composites?
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Old Jan 06, 2016, 09:56 AM
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Aurora Builder
United States, MD, Lusby
Joined Nov 2003
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Wrong place for that question (this thread), actually it is pretty well documented on the forums if you search. Short answer is it is milled on a CNC router. Long answer is, well, very long. Look up tom43004's dlg tail build, he has several videos on uchannel that show the process as well. Not for the faint of heart btw, I have far more invested in tooling than what buying a few top of the line planes would cost year on year.
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Old Jan 06, 2016, 09:35 PM
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South Africa, GP, Randburg
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With the Storm wing joining and glass reinforcement how does one keep the finish as neat as possible because with some models you don't notice it?
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Old Jan 06, 2016, 10:13 PM
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Aurora Builder
United States, MD, Lusby
Joined Nov 2003
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The models you don't see the seam on are joined in the molds. Essentially the wing is built as one piece, the glass reinforcement (I prefer 1k carbon here for durability and to backup the bolt holes a little) is done during build. I just spent a week building my mold jig to accommodate this and it isn't 100% perfect.

Graham's method is smarter frankly; easier to build, easier to ship and the only downside is a little extra work on the customers end and even that is mitigated with the silicone jigs he sells!
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Old Jan 06, 2016, 11:57 PM
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If I did'nt do such a good glassing job Sam would it be safe after removal from the jig to do some sanding on say just the the top to improve asthetics ?
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Old Jan 07, 2016, 08:57 AM
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No, not really. What you would likely be sanding is through the glass to get rid of a delamination bubble (basically air trapped between the glass wrap and the wing). Just take your time and all this is really better done once with the help of someone that has done it before.
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Old Jan 10, 2016, 01:09 AM
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Woodinville, WA
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Moved the pull string to the innermost hole on the horn and the 3114 still doesn't center for the elevator. Still can't get my Storm balanced well with a double centering elevator. My wallet hopes the third servo will do the job. Got any suggestions? I hope not to pay over $25.

Joseph
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Old Jan 10, 2016, 01:16 AM
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In F3J size does matter!
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Israel
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I highly recommend the Airtronics 94800, it's cheep, accurate and very reliable. I have it in most of my models on the elevator and love it.

But before you order a new servo, did you verify your lines aren't twisted?
try removing the wire and restring the elevator. I use a piano wire to insert the string, I use a drop of CA to attach it to the piano wire and then slip the piano wire from the back end all the way to the front without twisting it. This way it is run straight. If your wires are twisted around one another, nasty things tend to happen, especially on the elevator.

Roy
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Old Jan 12, 2016, 02:03 PM
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Aileron Control Wire Flex

To reduce flexing of the aileron wires at the horns Mickey recommends forming a JB Weld tube over the hole for the wire to seat on. If one ignores the placement of JB Weld tubes will the probable resulting wire flexing cause the hole in the horn to enlarge?
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Old Jan 12, 2016, 02:31 PM
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Mickey from Orlando. Really.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briano4za View Post
To reduce flexing of the aileron wires at the horns Mickey recommends forming a JB Weld tube over the hole for the wire to seat on. If one ignores the placement of JB Weld tubes will the probable resulting wire flexing cause the hole in the horn to enlarge?
Possible, but I don't do it for that reason. I do it so that the small piece of wire that is turned 90 degrees can't bend. This in effect holds the end of the wire straight, preventing it from buckling. This reduces the chance of flutter due to the wire buckling in the gap between the fuse and the horn.
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Old Feb 18, 2016, 08:59 AM
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David Eddy (Dave from CT)
United States, CT, Coventry
Joined Dec 2008
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Just bot a Storm from BrokenFoams, nice airframe in nice shape. I am getting double centering on the elevator. Tails are string spring which usually avoids this issue. I am not familiar with the inner workings of the string run, but there is a clicking sound like something is hanging up inside the fuse. The sound seems to be loudest under the wing at the leading edge. Beadalon was used. Can anyone suggest what might be the cause of this issue, and a possible solution? Thanks.

PS I see someone else is having this issue in a recent post above. I'd like to restring, seems like there is a tube at the rear exit into the elevator pylon. I can't pull a loop thru there, too tight. Might have to get a guitar string to run. Hate to cut the wire that is in place if I can get a twisted cable run resolved from the front end.

Dave in CT
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Last edited by thistle2311; Feb 18, 2016 at 09:03 AM. Reason: Similar issue shown in previous post.
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