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Old Dec 22, 2015, 10:28 AM
Vulgar Vulture is offline
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My rebuild using Callie Graphics 325th FG "Mary Mac".

Plane was flown into a tree at a local High School but only damaged because of MY retrieval methods which I wont get into. In fact, I believe that was the first time I'd ever flown into a tree since starting out in R/C way back in 1979! I KNOW I've crashed every OTHER WAY possible!

All new airframe parts were bought then paint prep, electronics re-installed and graphics applied. The checkertail was easier to apply than I thought it would be. Just take care in planing, cutting and placement.

I was going to use "Voodoo" graphics but decided on these because my Grandfathers B-24 Squadron was escorted over Europe by various FG's to include the 325th Checktail Clan. But according to MY records, "Mary Mac" may not have shown up in theater until AFTER my Grandfathers missions (all 38) were done.

I know its been said many times but Callie Graphics puts out high quality products. Also, their website says that MANY MORE designs are coming for 2016!

Hope you like!
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Old Dec 22, 2015, 12:11 PM
Hugo Flynow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulgar Vulture View Post
My rebuild using Callie Graphics 325th FG "Mary Mac".

Plane was flown into a tree at a local High School but only damaged because of MY retrieval methods which I wont get into. In fact, I believe that was the first time I'd ever flown into a tree since starting out in R/C way back in 1979! I KNOW I've crashed every OTHER WAY possible!

All new airframe parts were bought then paint prep, electronics re-installed and graphics applied. The checkertail was easier to apply than I thought it would be. Just take care in planing, cutting and placement.

I was going to use "Voodoo" graphics but decided on these because my Grandfathers B-24 Squadron was escorted over Europe by various FG's to include the 325th Checktail Clan. But according to MY records, "Mary Mac" may not have shown up in theater until AFTER my Grandfathers missions (all 38) were done.

I know its been said many times but Callie Graphics puts out high quality products. Also, their website says that MANY MORE designs are coming for 2016!

Hope you like!
That looks awesome!!! How did you get the checkered tail decal to conform so perfectly to all the curves and recessed lines? Is the decal waterslide or sticky back?
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Old Dec 22, 2015, 12:42 PM
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Thanks! It sticky back but I just followed Callies instructions.

It's not perfect and I had to fudge it a bit but I was able to clean it up with regular black sharpies. The squares on the fuselage on each side of the dorsal strake are hand drawn and fudged a bit.
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Old Dec 22, 2015, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Vulgar Vulture View Post
Thanks! It sticky back but I just followed Callies instructions.

It's not perfect and I had to fudge it a bit but I was able to clean it up with regular black sharpies. The squares on the fuselage on each side of the dorsal strake are hand drawn and fudged a bit.
Well you did an outstanding job! Go have a cookie and feel good about the whole thing!!!!
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Old Dec 28, 2015, 08:04 AM
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Great job on the 'Mary Mac"

Heres my new "Meg" , after the "50 mission" look and the tailwheel mod , gonna maiden her in a gym fly-in this weds , i`m sure she`ll fly like the rest of the umx planes , which is great
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Old Dec 28, 2015, 03:55 PM
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Looks good!
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Old Dec 28, 2015, 03:58 PM
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Great job on the 'Mary Mac"

Heres my new "Meg" , after the "50 mission" look and the tailwheel mod , gonna maiden her in a gym fly-in this weds , i`m sure she`ll fly like the rest of the umx planes , which is great
Well done!! Would love to do that to my Meg eventually. Do you have a tutorial? I love that it's subtle and not overdone.
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Old Dec 28, 2015, 04:00 PM
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My guess is smudged pencil shavings....am I right? huh? huh?
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Old Dec 28, 2015, 05:01 PM
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tks guys , Citadel shade "nuln oil" in all the panel lines , then a hint of black artist chalk ( rubbed over sandpaper to make a dust pile) over most of the airframe. (go very LIGHT)

when you put the "oil" in the panel lines , pull your finger over the panel line in the direction of airflow , gives it more realistic look ( remember , less is more , dont over do it )

you can get the Citadel "nuln oil" at hobby shops , its the stuff guys use to paint (wash) those game figures with ( it also comes in a brownish color , get that one too , great for a mud / shoe print look)

then a few paint chips made by a speck of silver here and there (prop , panel doors, black invasion stripes and the red flap "no step"markings

heck , half the fun is makin it look old and well used!

start on the bottom first , by the time your ready for the top of the plane , you`ll be an expert !
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Old Dec 28, 2015, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miketm22 View Post
tks guys , Citadel shade "nuln oil" in all the panel lines , then a hint of black artist chalk ( rubbed over sandpaper to make a dust pile) over most of the airframe. (go very LIGHT)

when you put the "oil" in the panel lines , pull your finger over the panel line in the direction of airflow , gives it more realistic look ( remember , less is more , dont over do it )

you can get the Citadel "nuln oil" at hobby shops , its the stuff guys use to paint (wash) those game figures with ( it also comes in a brownish color , get that one too , great for a mud / shoe print look)

then a few paint chips made by a speck of silver here and there (prop , panel doors, black invasion stripes and the red flap "no step"markings

heck , half the fun is makin it look old and well used!

start on the bottom first , by the time your ready for the top of the plane , you`ll be an expert !
Good stuff man! Thanks for the lesson.
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Old Feb 16, 2016, 05:45 PM
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I picked one of these up a few weeks ago and was finally brave enough to give it a fly, and must say that it flys awesome..... HOWEVER, I had to put in a LOT of down elevator (via control rod rather than trim). The guy at the LHS says he thinks that the trust vector is off a little bit on the motor, and it does appear that the spacing between the top of the spinner and the bottom of the spinner is not even. Could someone take a pic of their known good P-51 front end to confirm or deny this hypothesis?

In the mean time, I picked up the Spit. I absolutely love how these little planes fly
Mine climbs like crazy under power. I had to roll in some down trim (actually quite a bit of it).
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Old Feb 22, 2016, 06:45 AM
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Couldn't find the Corsair thread so I am posting here.

I am changing the motor, so I ordered the Sport Cub S motor. My question is what is the best way to get the old motor out of the gear box? Does the prop shaft need to come off?

Same goes for that rubbery factory adhesive, just scrape it off with a hobby knife? Also what is the best adhesive to use when the new motor is installed?

I have only changed a motor once before but that was on my old champ. In that case I changed the entire gear box so I carefully cut the old one out and put new one in with CA.

I also ordered a motor for my Sport Cub S, this time from micro motor warehouse. So I will have to solder the connector on.

Kind of funny because both the Sport Cub and Corsair motors broke after just a couple flights each, yet my P40 has about 100 flights on the same motor.
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattman0182 View Post
I am changing the motor, so I ordered the Sport Cub S motor. My question is what is the best way to get the old motor out of the gear box? Does the prop shaft need to come off?

Same goes for that rubbery factory adhesive, just scrape it off with a hobby knife? Also what is the best adhesive to use when the new motor is installed?
I'm pretty sure you can keep the prop shaft/gear on the gearbox, and just simply remove the old motor, with the gear on the motor shaft. Not sure if your replacement motor will have a pinion/gear on it, but if it doesn't you'll need to remove that from the old motor and transfer it onto the motor shaft of the new one.

I also believe that rubbery adhesive is simply silicone adhesive much like the silicone caulking stuff you can get at DIY stores.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattman0182 View Post
Kind of funny because both the Sport Cub and Corsair motors broke after just a couple flights each, yet my P40 has about 100 flights on the same motor.
Yeah, I see variable lifespans with the brushed motors. I have seen videos of people who swear by a "burn in" process where you run them up at low throttle for 10 minutes or so before flying them.
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattman0182 View Post
Couldn't find the Corsair thread so I am posting here.

I am changing the motor, so I ordered the Sport Cub S motor. My question is what is the best way to get the old motor out of the gear box? Does the prop shaft need to come off?

Same goes for that rubbery factory adhesive, just scrape it off with a hobby knife? Also what is the best adhesive to use when the new motor is installed?

I have only changed a motor once before but that was on my old champ. In that case I changed the entire gear box so I carefully cut the old one out and put new one in with CA.

I also ordered a motor for my Sport Cub S, this time from micro motor warehouse. So I will have to solder the connector on.

Kind of funny because both the Sport Cub and Corsair motors broke after just a couple flights each, yet my P40 has about 100 flights on the same motor.
My Micro motor had about 8 hrs on it when I pulled it to put a fresh one in. Good luck.
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 08:14 PM
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HH has hit a home run with their brushless P47. When (most likely) they release a brushless UMX Corsair and P51, my little 1S planes will be retired!
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